As Coco Chanel once said: “One is never over-dressed or underdressed with a little black dress” – so what really is the significance behind this must-have wardrobe essential
The Little Black Dress is both elegant and influential, having become a must-have wardrobe staple for women over the last century. With endless styling possibilities, this multifaceted dress ensures you’re appropriately dressed for any occasion.
I, myself, have multiple variations of little black dresses in my wardrobe, which I have accrued throughout the years. The styles range from midi lengths to ultra-minis and silk gowns to linen throw-overs. All of them have earned their spot in my closet through their versatility and practicality.
One dress, in particular, has become such a cult classic over the past decade that I have bought it three times, I did, in fact, lose two, but I heavily relied on this dress in my wardrobe, which meant it was instantly replaced.
However, aside from the garment’s effortlessly stylish and undeniably versatile nature, its historic significance runs much deeper. This simple garment has helped shape the fashion industry that we know and love today.
While the little black dress first became popular in the 1920s when Coco Chanel made a modern-day adaptation, it first appeared in the Victorian era, when women used the garment to signify mourning. Originally, widowed women were expected to wear black for years after their husbands had passed away as a sign of mourning for their deeply beloved. Notably, when Queen Victoria’s husband, Albert, died in 1861, it was reported that she exclusively wore black dresses for 40 years to symbolise her sadness.
But the beloved little black dress as we know it was first imagined by the legendary French designer Coco Chanel in 1926. The original design, made from classic crêpe de chine, featured narrow sleeves and was often paired with a traditional string of pearls. Due to its timeless yet versatile nature, the dress quickly established itself as a must-have for late afternoons and cocktail hours. After its debut, Vogue showcased an illustration of this elegant yet simple black dress and referred to it as ‘Chanel’s Ford’, highlighting its accessibility and ease for women across all demographics.
In the following years, the Great Depression and World War II unfolded. As women entered the workforce to fill roles left by men at war, and with fabric and textiles strictly rationed, a simple black dress became both practical and realistic. Just as Vogue had predicted, the little black dress emerged as a uniform for women across the globe.
Though simple in design, the evolution of the little black dress’s style is complex. The iconic flapper style is where it all unfolded, featuring a drop waist, relaxed fit, and panelled hemline. As expected, the flapper dress mirrored the women of its namesake: young, liberated, and fun.
This was followed by Christian Dior’s new look, which opted for a ‘sexier’ feel through full skirts and cinched waists. As Christian Dior says: “You can wear black at any time. You can wear it at any age. You may wear it for almost any occasion.”
The little black dress has undoubtedly transcended the decades, being altered and adapted to fit the political and financial circumstances of the time. Today, the dress is often worn with a sense of ease, thanks to its ability to always look good. Princess Diana’s ‘revenge dress’ came after King Charles publicly admitted to adultery. Although Diana didn’t verbally address the drama unfolding around her that night, her black dress conveyed a powerful message that spoke volumes.
Elizabeth Hurley followed suit by donning Gianni Versace’s iconic safety pin dress, famously known as “THAT Dress,” on the red carpet in 1994. She accompanied her then-boyfriend, Hugh Grant, to the premiere of Four Weddings and a Funeral. Although she was merely a plus-one at the time, the dress propelled her into the limelight, transforming her into a global media sensation, launching her acting career, and solidifying Versace’s status as a household name.
The legacy of the black dress spans centuries and will keep evolving. This garment represents power, authority, and confidence. We continue to cherish the little black dress as a vital wardrobe staple, so the next time you’re unsure of what to wear, reach for that little black dress. Wear it with confidence, honouring the women and the strength it embodies.