Planning an Italian getaway is always exciting, especially if you want to go somewhere very few people want to venture. That was the task Mirror Travel Writer Vita Molyneux and her brother faced when they were preparing to jet off.
“We were keen to explore somewhere off the beaten track,” she said. “We’d already experienced the coastal charm of Moneglia in Genoa – a tranquil village known for its warm hospitality and close proximity to the renowned Cinque Terre.”
She added: “We’d also taken in the stunning Tuscan cities of Florence and Siena, marvelling at their magnificent cathedrals and rich culture.”
With those places ticked off their bucket list, one place was left for them to conquer – and it was one they found, to their astonishment, many people had a dim view of.
“We set our sights on Naples, the southern Italian city famed for its pizza, vibrant nightlife and bustling cobbled streets,” Vita recalled. “With flights booked, accommodation sorted and anticipation mounting, we encountered an unexpected response. Almost everyone we told about our plans reacted with ‘Naples? Why would you go to Naples?'”
She added: “The city was painted as ‘dodgy’, ‘dangerous’ and ‘frightening’. Shaken, I turned to social media and found a plethora of TikTok videos warning against visiting Naples, with comments ranging from it giving off ‘kidnapping vibes’ to claims it was ‘the most dangerous city in the world’.”
To say Vita was alarmed would be putting it mildly, but this served as a stark reminder not to believe everything you read online, reports the Express.
Their journey got off to a bumpy start, as the trek from the airport to their accommodation in the Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarter) was somewhat tense. Naples, Vita found, was unlike any other Italian city she had visited.
“Admittedly, it’s a bit rough around the edges, with potholed roads and graffiti-laden walls. However, there was already something endearing about it,” she wrote.
“Our flight was delayed, and we didn’t touch down in Naples until around 1am. Our Airbnb host, showcasing the incredible kindness of the Neapolitan people, personally drove to the airport to pick us up despite the late hour.
“On our first day, we ventured out to explore our neighbourhood, the Quartieri Spagnoli. I instantly fell for its labyrinthine maze of cobbled streets, markets, shop fronts and homes all festooned with bunting.”
Vita and her brother could not have arrived at Naples at a better time – the local football team Napoli had just clinched their first Serie A title in 33 years before they arrived.
She said: “Images of the late Diego Maradona, Napoli’s Argentine legend who is almost worshipped as a saint here, were plastered on every other wall and hung above the streets. The atmosphere was electric and utterly intoxicating.
“Simply strolling through the city was an adventure. Mopeds whizzed past on the narrow streets, and there were people everywhere – it was hard to know where to look.
“We chose to hike up to Castel Sant’Elmo, perched high above the city. Our journey took us past beautiful villas and layers of pastel-coloured apartments.”
In the spring heat, climbing the steep stairs to the castle was a challenge, but the breathtaking view from the top made it all worthwhile for the pair.
“This medieval fortress, dating back to 1275, served as an autonomous military outpost,” Vita said. “Our exploration of the castle and its walls provided breathtaking views over the Bay of Naples and towards Mount Vesuvius, which ominously towers over Naples from the south.”
A highlight of Vita’s trip was Naples’ proximity to the ancient site of Pompeii – somewhere she had yearned to visit since she was a child.
“The ancient village, obliterated by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD, is one of the most well-preserved historical sites globally, boasting everything from homes to law courts to vineyards for visitors to explore,” she added.
“Just a half-hour train ride away, we reached the site early in the morning, with the sun already blazing overhead. We decided against a guided tour, opting instead for audio guides that allowed us to explore at our own pace.
“After consulting with a guide on site, he marked our maps, highlighting areas he thought we’d find most intriguing. Given Pompeii’s vastness, it’s nearly impossible to see everything in a single day. Taking our time, we meandered through the ancient village, absorbing the stories of its former inhabitants.”
After a full day of exploration, Vita and her brother returned to the city for some evening refreshments and a bite to eat. She was “completely blown away by the nightlife.”
Vita remarked: “Naples’ nightlife is second to none – kicking off with an Aperol spritz in one of the city’s numerous bars, watching life pass by, before moving on to taste some truly amazing Neapolitan pizza, hailed as the world’s best by many.
“We spent a thrilling three days in Naples, and every moment was a delight. Sure, it’s bustling and crossing the road requires bravery and a certain level of recklessness, but the city is teeming with life.
“The city buzzes with activity, the views are breathtaking, and the locals are fantastic.”
What advice would Vita give to anyone hesitant about visiting this southern Italian gem? “Don’t trust everything you read online, as I discovered. But if you’re reading this and pondering whether to visit Naples – take my word for it, you should.”