Morocco rocks – Sanjeeta Bains goes on a multi-centre mission most possible for fans of blockbuster movies such as James Bond, Mission: Impossible and the Bourne Ultimatum
Dodging a motorbike as it whizzes down a narrow market alleyway is not just a day in the life of an extra on a Bond movie… it’s welcome to Morocco.
And I was on a speedy special mission myself… a whistlestop tour of three of the most popular destinations for spies and special agents – Tangier, Rabat and Marrakech. All have been film locations for those big budget action thrillers: Spectre (Tangier and Marrakech), Mission: Impossible – Rogue Nation (Rabat) and Bourne Ultimatum (Tangier).
Located in north west Africa, Morocco’s Moorish architecture, with its thronged souk alleyways and mystical medinas, conjure up a tantalising backdrop for intrigue and espionage.
But that is just one cultural aspect of the country. Tangier may date back more than 2,500 years, but it is very modern too. We arrived at night having flown from Stansted. The palm trees lining the waterfront and the throngs of people out for the night, as we drove to our hotel, made it feel very “Miami”.
We were staying at the Hilton, in the new business district – Tangier City Centre, near the beach. Eager to sample the buzzing nightlife I went for dinner, wine, and live music at the elegant La Table du Marché. The restaurant overlooks the city’s marina, which juts out into the Strait of Gibraltar separating Europe and Africa.
Our restaurant’s menu was also a delicious mix of the two continents. Dishes included seafood linguine and Harira soup – a traditional Moroccan tomato-based soup with chickpeas and lentils served with dates and creme brulee for dessert.
Morocco was under French colonial rule from 1912 until 1956, and its foodie legacy is strong. Our hotel breakfast the next morning featured at least 15 different types of olives, and just as many French pastries, cakes, and croissants!
For our day in Tangier, we took a trip to Cap Spartel, offering a viewpoint of exactly where the Atlantic and Mediterranean meet. Later we bagged a table at the 100-year-old Cafe Hafa, built on a cliff edge overlooking Gibraltar – the sea views are as sweet as the Moroccan mint tea served here. Famous past customers include Mick Jagger.
Our afternoon was spent travelling even further back in time in the medina. The Arabic word for old town, it is encircled by a medieval wall with winding streets, hectic markets and the Kasbah palace and mosque. The entrance to the medina is the Grand Socco – a busy plaza with a central fountain used in Bond films Spectre and The Living Daylights.
The next morning, we rented a car to the blue city of Chefchaouen. Located in the Rif Mountains, it is one of the most Instagrammable places in the world, with its azure blue buildings. The city’s alpine location means the blue is all the more eye-catching viewed from one of the many cafe top vantage points.
Our guide told us the colour was chosen to represent the sparkling Mediterranean, and in the belief it would keep buildings cool in the summer months. Chefchaouen is also becoming an in-demand movie location, but more sweet romcoms than spy outings. In Netflix’s romantic drama Lonely Planet, Laura Dern and Liam Hemsworth fell in love here.
We travelled back to Tangier that evening, and I found myself marvelling at how unexpectedly green Morocco is – enjoying the scenic views through the mountains and rolling hills. Tangier’s excellent road and rail connections make it the perfect base to explore much of the country and our hotel was right next to the train station.
The next morning a one hour and 20 minute high speed rail journey takes us to Morocco’s beautiful capital, Rabat. There is so much to see including the Grand Theatre de Rabat – one of many architectural riches of this serene seaside city.
There are also several must-see historic landmarks including the official residence of King Mohammed VI. He lives in Rabat most of the time because, according to our guide, Rabat has the best weather: “Tangier can get too cold and Marrakech too hot – but Rabat is just right.”
On my winter visit, I did find Rabat the most pleasant climate. It helps that the old town is right next to the sea, with the Atlantic breeze blowing in. The medina centres on the picturesque Old Market, a souk with alleys of shops selling Argan oil, jewellery, spices and antiques, ceramics and spices. During our wander, we came across one of the many traditional communal bread ovens, also known as ferranes – where bread is cooked for the local community. The sight is charming but will get tummies rumbling.
It was lucky that the Kasbah of the Udayas, a pretty residential area with little shops and food stalls, is situated next to the medina. Here you can pick up mini pastillas – a snack version of the Moroccan classic sweet and savoury chicken and almond pie.
Situated on a hill at the mouth of the Bou Regreg river, the Kasbah is also part of Rabat which is listed as a UNESCO world heritage site. And it’s an important place in popular culture too – Tom Cruise’s high-speed chase in Mission Impossible: Rogue Nation took place on these steps. On our own thrilling mission – taking in as many sights as our five days in Morocco allowed, the final destination was Marrakech and a stay at the majestic Sofitel Marrakech Palais Imperial and Spa. On our final day, we soaked up the Marrakech souk atmosphere for bargain hunting and ended our day in more languorous European fashion – at Yves Saint-Laurent’s home.
The Villa Oasis also includes the breathtaking Jardin Majorelle and the Yves Saint-Laurent Museum. The French-Algerian designer had his ashes scattered in the gardens here.
It’s easy to see why fashion designers and filmmakers are so entranced by Morocco, yet I know I’ve barely scratched the surface of this gorgeous country. A return is a must.
Book the holiday
- Ryanair flies from Stansted to Tangier, Morocco, starting at £75 return; Rabat £64; Marrakech £120. ryanair.com
- A four night stay at the Hilton Tanger City Center hotel starts at around £537pp in September. hilton.com
- A four night stay at the Sofitel Marrakech Palais Impérial & Spa hotel starts at around £1,061pp in September. sofitel.accor.com
- More info at visitmorocco.com