Laid-back, beautiful country just like Scandinavia – but hardly anyone visits

As I stepped off the ferry onto Estonia’s largest island, Hiiumaa, all I could hear were birds. All I could see were trees. No big builds, no tourist attractions – just space to breathe and land untouched by mass tourism. It felt like a place still undiscovered. (And with the third fewest visitors in Europe, it kind of is).

Estonia is one of the least-visited countries in Europe, and it had never been on my radar. But when I saw the itinerary for this trip – wild horse riding, island-hopping, sauna culture – I was hooked. And once I arrived, it only got better.

Estonian life is relaxed. There’s no ‘hustle culture,’ so people have time for hobbies, and visitors like me get to join in.

The trip began in Tallinn, the capital, where I checked into the Mövenpick Hotel. Sleek and modern, it came with an incredible spa with a long pool, massage jets, hot and cold plunge pools, steam room, and – naturally – a sauna (which I visited daily).

Sauna culture in Estonia is woven into daily life much like in Scandinavia. In fact, the country feels like the laid-back cousin of the Nordics, with similar design, a love for nature, and a fish-rich diet – but shaped by a very different history.

Tallinn’s Old Town is full of cobbled streets and medieval buildings that still echo traces of both German and Soviet rule. Estonia only became independent in 1991, and it still wears its freedom with quiet pride.

The next morning, I ferried to Estonia’s biggest islands: Hiiumaa and Saaremaa. That’s where the true beauty of the country lies.

The ferries here are spacious, modern, and spotless – they feel more like floating lounges than basic transport. There’s many indoor and outdoor viewing decks, a café, and even a convenience store onboard.

My first activity in Hiiumaa ended up being a favourite: horse riding along Käina Bay, a seaside bird paradise in the Kassari Landscape Reserve. I rode a horse named Custiv through wetlands and woodlands, and he was the best – he did not go off track and followed all my instructions!

I was guided by a local instructor who also makes his own apple cider – because here, everyone has time for passion projects. The 1-2 hour ride costs just £25 and is suitable for all levels. They even offer children’s riding camps.

Here, a deep connection to nature runs through everything; locals live with the land, not just on it. Their food culture reflects that respect for nature. Estonian cuisine is about using what the land and sea give them – and it’s some of the freshest I’ve ever tasted.

After the horseback ride, I had lunch at iiuMekk Restaurant, right by a harbour with incredible sea views. Big bowls of local dishes were laid out for sharing. Golden caviar – a luxury elsewhere – was served as a casual appetiser, from fish caught that same morning.

I then visited Luidja Beach – two kilometres of golden sand and sparkling Baltic Sea. It wasn’t quite beach season, but the pristine setting made it easy to imagine a summer swim.

One of the trip’s most breathtaking views came from the top of Kõpu Lighthouse – one of the oldest in the world, perched 67 metres above sea level. You can really see just how wild and untouched Hiiumaa still is.

Dinner that night was at Hobekala Guesthouse, a glasshouse with a single communal table that didn’t look like a restaurant at all – until the family of three who run it greeted me warmly and served homemade butter, rye bread, and smoked fish spreads.

Afterwards, the chef invited us into the kitchen to show how he prepared garfish in the oven, explaining each step as he cooked. The fish was unlike any I’d had before – delicate, fresh, and full of flavour.

The next day, we ferried to Saaremaa. On this island, I visited the stunning SÖRWESPA Nature Resort – a spa with a forest-facing pool, outdoor jacuzzi, and three types of sauna. It costs just £16, and I could’ve stayed all day.

But our next accommodation awaited – Pilguse Manor, where historical manors have been reborn into stylish Scandinavian retreats.

I had a unique overnight stay here: I slept in a mirror house, hidden in nature with mirrors outside and glass walls inside. Everything was cosy, from the bamboo sofa to the fireplace. The shower, with glass walls, felt like bathing in the forest – but it’s completely private.

I was unsure about staying at first – sleeping in the middle of a dark field sounded a bit daunting. But the cabin was so modern and secure that I quickly felt at ease. I didn’t even close the curtains, since the glass walls turn into mirrors at night, and I woke up to the sunrise without leaving bed.

That evening, I also tried Estonia’s unique smoke sauna. Inside a chimneyless wooden cabin, smoke fills the room before sealing in dry heat. It’s intense, but an amazing sensation to then cool off outdoors in the manor’s pond. The experience is £20.

Both dinner and breakfast at Pilguse Manor were just as memorable, all sourced locally – from smoked trout and hasselback potatoes to fresh rye bread and creamy butter.

The next day, we made a final detour to tiny Muhu Island, connected by a natural road across the Baltic Sea.

There, I visited HOIA Homespa – a retreat created by a couple who left their city jobs. They also launched their own natural beauty brand, and I did a body-scrub workshop using scents from the Estonian islands.

My final night was back in Tallinn, at the five-star Telegraaf Autograph Collection. With big rooms, high ceilings, plush beds and Soviet-meets-modern décor, it was the perfect finale.

The breakfast buffet was spectacular, with homemade rye bread, pastries, fresh fish, and the standout dish: cottage cheese pancakes. The hotel also has a lovely spa with a small pool, jacuzzi, and three saunas.

Estonia surprised me in every way. It offers the charm, nature and hospitality of the Mediterranean – without the crowds. It shares the calm of the North, but with the joy of a country still celebrating its freedom. They live slowly. Deeply. And when you visit, you will too.

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