‘I went to beautiful European island that was once a playground for royalty’

We’re walking in the sunshine in the footsteps of kings and queens, pashas and sultans in the ancient city of Amathus.

One of the kings had a bloodline to Cleopatra and would have bathed in the stone baths heated by furnaces so he could choose a medium or very hot tub, or even a steam room before plunging into cold mountain water. After bathing, Royal Highnesses were massaged with expensive aromatic oils and sprayed with perfumes imported from the East.

All of this pampering happened 3,000 years ago on coastal cliffs on the southern coast of Cyprus where unwashed sailors, farmers and merchants were not accepted into the perfumed inner city before bathing to become socially acceptable.

Archaeologists have spent decades chiselling and digging to expose the ruins of royal palaces and temples for worshipping the gods of love and fertility, war and hunting. Amazingly, we touch these once impressive structures built on hills with views of the Mediterranean Sea to spot Arab invaders.

In the main square under a cloudless, blue sky, our guide Rose Marie vividly transports us into the past to imagine maritime traders arriving from the now sunken but still visible port. They were there to buy and sell, chat and argue under a covered shopping arcade that doubled up as a newsroom where stories were exchanged from Lebanon, Syria and mainland Greece.

We take a 10-minute drive to Limassol to check in at Louis Hotels’ Royal Apollonia where we indulge in a modern-day tribute to Apollo, God of sunlight, music and poetry. The property blends old-world charm with up-to-date amenities, including a swim-up bar in one of the three pools, three restaurants, and beach loungers attended by waiters.

The hotel has replicated the rejuvenation treatments of the kings and queens with its own temple of wellbeing where soothing scents calm and a couples’ massage relieves our tired muscles in the tranquillity of the spa.

Feeling suitably relaxed, we enter the peaceful setting of Apollonia’s Japanese fusion restaurant Akakiko for hot and sour tam tam soup with Thai-style prawns, pan-fried golden brown chicken and vegetable gyoza dumplings, followed by tempura duck.

Looking for life outside of the hotel, we drive into the foothills to Restaurant Agios Epiktitos – named by the owner after his village in the north was captured by Turkish troops in 1974.

We soon find Wednesdays are party nights and families are carrying presents and birthday balloons to long tables seating up to 30. Meze is the only choice and it comes in a mouth-watering rush of blood sausage, pork belly off the grill and in red wine, tahini, tzatziki, chicken souvlaki, couscous, halloumi, lamb, stifado, kleftiko, salad and chips.

Our waiter says there’s no choosing the amount of plates, estimating there are about 23 – even he doesn’t seem to be sure.

Then the real party begins. A keyboard player and singer with bouzouki (an oval-shaped instrument similar to a guitar) start belting out tunes for Greek line dancing. The place erupts in a lot of singing, whooping and tapping of feet.

With appetites renewed from energetic dancing, there comes a delicious finale – deep-fried and crispy Bourekia pastry with sweet goat’s cheese inside and the outside covered in icing sugar.

A couple of nights later, we decide to go for a more sober and manageable affair in Apollonia’s Alati Greek restaurant, which serves a six-course meze which we enjoy on the outside terrace in November’s very pleasant 23C.

For a Sunday drive, the lower Troodos mountains are calling just as a storm is brewing. We take in some spectacular countryside views for 16 miles until we arrive in Lofou village. The gods are with us, the clouds part, the rain stops and the sun shines.

We enjoy a stroll around narrow cobbled streets before rolling thunder threatens another downpour. Our refuge is the community cafe with blue gingham tablecloths over old wooden tables on a covered veranda. I’m corrected when asking for a Greek coffee. Schoolboy error!

A very proud and fortunately smiling lady insists her brew is “Cyprus coffee” and is best served with village ladies’ sweetly preserved walnuts, quince and citrus apple. An excellent recommendation and all for a few euros.

Having a car is essential for the full Cyprus experience. At Limassol Salt Lake we tentatively follow others driving on to the salt flat called Lady’s Mile, named after a horse called “Lady” who belonged to a British colonial governor. It is a little adventure on the smoothly packed salt surface, and in the distance, there are hundreds of flamingos from Africa searching for shrimp.

Our next journey is to Coral Bay. En route we take in another archaeological park, which echoes the once-thriving city kingdom of Kourion, with spectacular sea views from the magnificent Greco-Roman theatre still used for summertime musical and theatrical performances.

In the Gladiator’s House a beautifully restored mosaic depicts the valor and bravery of two fighting men wearing armoured helmets
and facing each other with shields, clubs and swords – probably commemorating a famous battle to the death but there are no signs of who prevailed.

Coral Bay’s sweeping crescent-shaped 600 yards of soft sand, enclosed each end by limestone headlands, makes it easy to walk into the sea to swim safely in crystal water. Blood-red sunsets are spectacular.

Locals run the publicly owned value-for-money beach cafes serving sandwiches and salads, Cypriot coffees (I get the order right this time) brewed with pride, cold beers and ice-creams. Two sunloungers and a parasol cost €7 a day.

There are showers for €1 but I am caught out when the water supply turns off. With shampoo in my hair I have to go to the bar to get change for the slot. Not a pretty sight.

Cali Resort & Spa, our accommodation near Paphos, is a short walk from the beach and the lively Coral Bay strip of bars, pubs and restaurants. Cali is an adults-only place, beautifully renovated, exuding serenity to rejuvenate mind and body around the large pool and spa.

There’s lavish buffets in Aria all-day dining for alfresco breakfast, lunch and dinner with show cooking stations where chefs use fresh Cypriot ingredients. Different cooking themes are provided each evening.

In nearby Paphos old town, Koutourou restaurant is in a splendid building. It is full of old relics with a basket bike hanging from the beamed ceiling and very battered travelling cases. There are pedal-powered Singer sewing machines, old serving trays and hefty black typewriters.

Demetris Nicolau, the owner and chef, along with two ladies, creates wonderful Mediterranean dishes for diners in three rooms where every marble-topped table is crammed.

While walking through the narrow streets we can hear live Greek music which draws us to the Tavern Pagkratios where Lakis is playing the bouzouki and Michalis the guitar as they sing about love and world travel. The meze looks delicious. We return another night and have a great time. The orange-soaked cake for dessert is heavenly, so the gods are still with us.

Book the holiday

• easyJet holidays offers seven nights on B&B at the Royal Apollonia by Louis Hotels in Limassol, Cyprus, from £995pp with 23kg baggage, transfers and flights from Gatwick on July 15. easyjet.com/en/holidays/
• easyJet holidays offers seven nights on all-inclusive at the Cali Resort & Spa by Louis Hotels near Paphos, Cyprus, from £1,184pp with 23kg baggage, transfers and flights from Gatwick on July 15. easyjet.com/en/holidays
• Flights from other UK airports also available.
• More info at visitcyprus.com.

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