The breathtaking beauty of Lake Como in northern Italy has long been a major draw for visitors. But I was left disappointed after a trip to the glamorous celebrity hotspot
Lake Como has a glamorous image as a celebrity hotspot and luxurious holiday destination, attracting worldwide travellers craving a blend of Alpine splendour and Italian allure.
Closely rivalled by its larger neighbours, Lake Garda and Lake Maggiore, which are also in Northern Italy, the holiday hotspot stands out for its pastel-coloured villages, graceful villas, and striking mountain vistas.
It’s also merely a brief journey from Milan; trains run regularly from Milan Centrale and Como San Giovanni, with travel times spanning roughly 37 to 47 minutes, or it’s approximately a one-hour and 36-minute drive.
Enticed by the picturesque pictures and videos of Lake Como that swamped social media, I paid a visit there in early June 2023, when the lake was at its most enchanting during the peak tourist season.
It was truly magical at first, but I soon came to regret my choice of destination, reports the Express.
Disembarking at the bustling ferry terminal in Bellagio, my initial impressions were utterly spectacular: I could instantly understand why it’s dubbed “the pearl of Lake Como”.
Nevertheless, it swiftly became obvious that Bellagio had been rather oversold by the deluge of TikTok and Instagram reels that saturated my phone in the months before the journey.
The town sits on a headland called the Lario Peninsula, in the southern section of Lake Como.
It is stunning during daylight hours, even the crowds of tourists don’t feel overly oppressive as you wander the twisting cobblestone lanes.
But as evening falls, the magic dissipates. Most eateries shut surprisingly early – around 9pm or 9.30pm – with only a handful staying open until 10pm or 11pm.
Following a complete day of discovering the lake, we yearned for a leisurely late supper or a beverage with a panoramic view.
Yet, Bellagio was already shutting down. Coming from the vibrant nightlife of Milan, the quietness of Bellagio was a bit of a shock.
Looking back, we were perhaps a bit naive to expect the same bustling European nightlife in a small lakeside town, but we were still let down by the early closing times.
It was especially annoying on nights when we came back from other towns like Lenno, where the restaurants stayed open later and the atmosphere was more laid-back, warm and inviting.
Our day at Villa del Balbianello, famous for its Star Wars and James Bond scenes, ended with a much more enjoyable late afternoon in Lenno, highlighting that Bellagio just wasn’t the right base for us.
For a place as touristy and polished as Bellagio, the food was a letdown. We had a string of rather forgettable dinners, and one night, a very dry tiramisu served by a host who had strong views on local Airbnb owners ruined it.
While some restaurant owners were nice – one even lent us umbrellas and plastic bags when we got caught in a heavy rainstorm – most meals felt overpriced and underwhelming.
Despite its culinary reputation, Bellagio lacked flavour. However, there’s something to be said for the long queues at restaurants luring us away from some of the most popular spots.
Lake Como’s busiest town, Bellagio, is a tourist hotspot that feels more commercialised than the quieter, more authentic areas. Even Varenna and Lenno, which are equally popular, retain a rustic Italian charm.
However, Bellagio has its own allure. Staying with an Airbnb host who lived on-site offered a fantastic chance to practise Italian and enjoy fresh fish cooked in the garden after his fishing trip.
Another highlight was the stunning landscape, with Bellagio offering almost panoramic views. It felt like stumbling upon San Giovanni beach, a hidden gem reached by a scenic walk (with plenty of stairs).
By this measure, Bellagio isn’t very accessible for less mobile visitors beyond the initial cobbled streets leading to the bustling port. Moreover, public transport is limited to ferries, buses and a few elusive taxis.
The slow ferry from Como to Bellagio is a must-do. This nearly two-hour cruise passes charming villages like Tremezzo, Lenno, and Cernobbio.
At just £18, it’s scenic and relaxing, making the long journey absolutely worth it, even if it does make returning to the drizzly UK summer a bit harder to swallow.
The ferry schedule to other parts of the lake is simple enough if you pop by the ferry port. A tip for the wise: secure your ticket first, then unwind with a beverage at the eatery across from the port whilst you wait.
Enjoying complimentary nibbles with an Aperol in the sunshine certainly makes queuing a more enjoyable affair, but don’t let yourself get too swept up in the moment, or you might just miss the ferry.