Porthmadog is a charming harbour town on the edge of the Eryri National Park and the estuary of the Afon Glaslyn as it runs into Tremadog Bay. It has had a major reinvention after its industyr collapsed
A North Wales town was brought back from the brink after its industry collapsed.
Porthmadog, a delightful harbour town nestled on the edge of the Eryri/Snowdonia National Park and the estuary of the Afon Glaslyn as it flows into Tremadog Bay. Locally known as ‘Port’, this bustling tourist town boasts a rich history. It’s one of Wales’ newest towns, having only been established in 1810-11.
The town’s founder, William Madocks, constructed a sea wall, the Cob, in 1811 to reclaim a significant portion of Traeth Mawr from the sea for farming purposes, creating a new natural harbour in the process.
Quarry companies quickly followed suit, establishing wharves along the shore almost to Borth-y-Gest. Slate was transported from Ffestiniog down to quays along the Afon Dwyryd, then shipped to Porthmadog for a larger vessel.
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This industrial venture proved successful, with shipments of slate from Porthmadog peaking at 142,080 tonnes in 1849 during the first half of the 19th century. Like many Welsh towns reliant on slate, production declined, landing the town with an existential problem, reports Wales Online.
Industrial disputes and poor working conditions weakened the industry further, especially after the ‘Great Strike’ at Penrhyn, a three-year piece of industrial action which affected confidence in the whole North Wales slate trade.
By the early 20th century, the once-busy Porthmadog harbour was in decline. Sailing ships that had carried slate around the world dwindled as steam transport and rail routes shifted trade patterns. The slate quarries themselves were producing less, and Blaenau Ffestiniog gradually shifted from slate to other forms of employment.
The last significant cargo of slate left Porthmadog harbour in 1946, marking the symbolic end of its role as an industrial slate port.
That could have ended the town’s glory days and signalled a lengthy period of decline for Porthmadog. Happily, that would not end up being its future. The people of Porthmadog threw their efforts into building the tourist trade in the town, which sits on the edge of a beautiful national park on a long stretch of rugged coastline.
Today, it’s a popular holiday destination, attracting thousands of visitors who come for vintage railway rides, traditional pubs, and Blackrock Sands. One of the main attractions here is the Ffestiniog Railway, established in 1832, making it the world’s oldest narrow-gauge railway.
There are a plethora of routes to choose from on their award-winning railways, including the Gelert Explorer, which takes you from Caernarfon to Beddgelert and back. The Harbourmaster route runs from Porthmadog to Caernarfon and back, while the Woodland Wanderer begins at Porthmadog and transports you to Tan-y-Bwlch and back.
The Mountain Spirit service offers a full journey along the Ffestiniog Railway, departing from Porthmadog and heading to the former slate mining hub of Blaenau Ffestiniog, twice daily.
The Mountain Spirit’s First Class Pullman carriages are beautifully finished at the railway’s Boston Lodge workshops. If you’re after the ultimate view, you can book seats at the Observation Bay at the very end of the train.
With free-standing chairs facing straight out the back, the scenery unfolds as you chug along, revealing dense woodlands and expansive reservoirs.
This picturesque journey whisks you through a constantly changing woodland landscape, past the charming Tan-y-Bwlch station and the shimmering expanse of Llyn Ystradau reservoir, until you reach the rugged slate tips of Blaenau Ffestiniog.
At Blaenau, the train halts for about 50 minutes, giving you ample time to disembark, stretch your legs, and grab a bite if you’re peckish. You’ll then hop back on the train to Porthmadog.
Beyond the vintage railway, there’s a wealth of attractions in Porthmadog. The harbour, brimming with boats, is a favourite spot for crabbing – particularly from the harbour wall.
You can buy all your crabbing necessities (including a packet of bacon for bait) from the nearby shops.
Close by is the Maritime Museum, nestled within the last remaining slate shed along the harbour. It boasts a plethora of maritime artefacts and offers insights into the town’s nautical history.
From the museum, you can pop into the Tafarn Pencei pub for a pint and homemade fish and chips.