In St Albans, Hertfordshire you can wander medieval streets, browse boutique shops, sip something warm in cosy pubs, and soak up the festive vibes at the 1,000-year-old market
A city that is a surprisingly short train ride away from London has a millennium-old market and some of the oldest pubs in the UK.
Such is the speed of the connection from St Albans to St Pancras in London, locals affectionately refer to it as the Shinkansen or Bullet Train of Hertfordshire.
But it’s not just ease of transport that makes the cathedral city worth visiting. In fact, one could argue that as the golden leaves begin to fall and rooftops frost over, St Albans is the picture-perfect spot for a short break.
There you can wander medieval streets, browse boutique shops, sip something warm in cosy pubs, and soak up the festive vibes at the 1,000-year-old market.
Here are six reasons to visit St Albans:
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The magical St Albans Cathedral
The jewel of the city, St Albans Cathedral, is the oldest site of continuous Christian worship in Britain. Step inside and you’ll find the Shrine of St Alban, Britain’s first saint and after whom the city was named, which has been a focal point for visitors and pilgrims alike for over 1,700 years.
It has the longest nave of any cathedral in England, at 85 metres long, and visitors can climb 211 winding steps to the top of the spectacular Norman Tower, where they may spot the tall buildings of the City of London.
Simply magical during the colder months, the Cathedral’s programme is packed with seasonal events and activities to enjoy, including stunning candlelight concerts, creative workshops and awe-inspiring exhibitions.
Its popular Live Nativity Trail, which on Saturday, December 13, features actors reenacting characters from the Christmas story and bringing the nativity scene to life for families and people of all ages. The fun and festive trail guides visitors around the Cathedral grounds, encountering shepherds, wise men, angels, innkeepers, and even a somewhat grumpy King Herod. Also on 13 December is the popular Carols on the Hour.
The great outdoors
Wrap up warm and embrace the beauty of the season with an invigorating walk, leisurely stroll, cycle or dog walk — St Albans is packed with picturesque, cobbled streets and has an abundance of gorgeous places to enjoy the fresh air.
Venture to Nomansland Common and Heartwood Forest for woodland or take The Alban Way trail, a flat and traffic-free disused section of the Great Northern Railway, ideal for cyclists and walkers.
Named after the Roman City on which it stands, Verulamium Park boasts over 100 acres of parkland just steps from the city centre. It features an ornamental lake, a rare Roman mosaic and hypocaust, café, and more.
And just a five-minute walk from the city centre is Clarence Park, home to an old-fashioned bandstand, but if you’re more of a sports enthusiast, then Clarence Park is also the home of St Albans City Football Club, which always has a great buzz on match days.
Delicious food and drink
After a long walk, there’s nothing quite like a hearty pub lunch with roast potatoes and Yorkshire puddings, a customary pint or a glass of red and a blazing open fire. Whether it’s The Cock Inn, The Peahen, The Boot, The Six Bells, The Lower Red Lion or Ye Olde Fighting Cocks (reputed to be one of England’s oldest pubs), there are plenty of traditional hostelries across St Albans where you can while away a winter afternoon in the company of good friends, excellent food and a welcoming atmosphere in front of the flames.
Fine dining restaurants including Thompson St Albans and Lussmanns Sustainable Kitchen offer award-winning, refined, flavour-filled dishes from the finest seasonal ingredients, matched with meticulous service.
For sweet treats and stop-offs, get your taste buds tingling at wonderful bakeries dotted throughout the city centre. You can try Proto Artisan Bakery brimming with the most delicious twists of Real Sourdough Bread such as cranberry and walnut.
To help discover the best eating and drinking in the city, a new food and drink Map has been created by St Albans City Centre BID, listing 120 locations including the finest dining on offer.
Historical pubs
You can become fully immersed in the fascinating history of hostelries — the term for a traditional coaching inn. From November, St Albans Museum and Gallery will present Inns and Alehouses in Victorian St Albans, an exhibition inspired by the 1884 song The City Pubs, composed by ‘Baron’ Martin and first performed at the annual dinner of the St Albans Licensed Victuallers’ Association.
The lively composition lists the many pubs, inns and taprooms of the city (some still open today) and provides a fascinating glimpse into a time when St Albans boasted nearly one hundred commercial drinking establishments.
The exhibition explores the diverse venues that shaped social life in the late nineteenth century — from bustling beerhouses to traditional taverns — shedding light on the reasons behind their success or decline as the city moved into the twentieth century.
Something for film and theatre fans
Film enthusiasts can head to the Art Deco Odyssey Cinema which dates to 1908 and shows an incredible range of titles that can be enjoyed from plush seats with your choice of drinks, snacks and delicious food plates.
OVO’s production of Charles Dickens’ A Christmas Carol returns this year at two brand-new venues, including the enchanting walled Vintry Garden, overlooking the Cathedral in St Albans. This open-air venue offers a unique festive experience that immerses audiences in the spirit of Christmas past, present and yet to come.
Spectacular shopping and ancient markets
St Albans is a great shopping destination where old meets new with charming independent boutiques offering cutting-edge and unusual items set in beautiful, Medieval buildings and three large shopping areas playing host to well-known brands.
Support small businesses at the award-winning St Albans Charter Market, established over 1,000 years ago. Every Wednesday and Saturday, shop for everything you could possibly want and enjoy the buzz and energy of the legendary market through the quirky cobblestone streets that are at the heart of the St Albans story.
The Second Sunday Market specialises in local food and drink and sustainable arts and crafts while at St Albans Vintage Market you can find all manner of antiques, vintage, brocante and architectural salvage. St Albans Vegan Market brings a big variety of vegan street food, artisan bakers, craft brewers, ethical jewellers, sustainable chandlers, local artists, zero-waste champions, environmental charities and loads more.