Croatia’s ‘party island’ hiding little-known piece of paradise

Hvar is known to tourists for its vibrant nightlife and party culture, but with new laws clamping down on the main town’s shenanigans, a hidden gem on the other side of the island is the next best thing

Hvar, one of Croatia’s many islands, is just a two-hour ferry ride from Split. The main spot, Hvar Town, is known as a party destination with tourists pouring in during the summer months to go straight from the beach to the clubs and back.

But, less than an hour away from the hustle and bustle is a lesser-known side of the island. Family-friendly, tranquil and everything you could imagine in a sliver of Mediterranean paradise.

This is Stari Grad, one of the oldest towns in Europe with a full-time population of less than two thousand people. Arriving by ferry on this secluded side of Hvar, it’s easy to forget it’s a ‘party island’ at all as you’re enveloped in the serenity of Mediterranean countryside.

Stari Grad’s crystal-clear waters and iconic long bay create the most gorgeous views as the sun sets right down the middle of it during the summer months. The waterside promenade also boasts a plethora of local bars and restaurants where you can watch the dazzling display with a glass of Bogdanusa from the edge of ancient Roman mosaic floors dating back to the second century.

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Down the city’s narrow alleyways, you can find a range of local treats and handmade goods, from painters to bakers. All are experts in their crafts and friendly as they come. In the summer, the streets come alive with flowers complementing the ancient stonework, making for some stunning photos.

The medenjaci, traditional Croatian cookies, are to die for. The island is also known for its lavender fields, with several vendors offering dried plants, oils, and other handmade lavender products. After a few minutes of walking, you may even come across Petar Hektorović’s castle.

The Renaissance poet built the pinnacle of a writer’s sanctuary into his favourite town, which is still mostly intact today. It has all the plants he collected during his travels and his famous fishpond. It may not sound like much, but the atmosphere is indescribable, like pure tranquility in physical form.

All of this is just a short walk away from Valamar’s [PLACES] hotel. Providing some of the upbeat party culture Hvar is known for without distracting from the natural wilderness it’s surrounded by. When the sun goes down, the pool stage lights up as DJs and performers take over, excited chatter takes over as cocktails pour out of the multiple bars until the late hours of the evening.

The resort features apartments and villas just a few short steps from the ocean, where a secluded beach allows visitors a dip in the crystal clear waters. It also features a quaint spa next to an array of huts, bean bags and lounging chairs in a ‘quiet zone’ that creates a true break away from all the stressors of life. Allowing you to completely unwind as the birds sing in harmony with the rhythm of the ocean.

Just next door is the family-friendly Valamar Amicor resort. Water slides, game rooms, sports courts, even virtual reality football, are just a quick walk or tricycle ride from the lavish villas. Its delicious buffet restaurant also caters to every picky eater imaginable, from pancakes to oysters.

Our local guides note that mid-summer is Hvar’s busiest time of year, which also means prices for resorts and activities go up. However, they also point out that even the depths of winter rarely hit single-digit temperatures here.

For anyone planning a getaway, they recommend skipping July or August and going for May, June, or September, when temperatures are just as high but the beaches are empty and the rates are lower.

The tourist hotspot of Hvar Town is less than an hour’s drive away from Stari Grad. If you plan the right route, you might even come across local family wineries up on the mountains that offer unmatchable views of the bay as you sip.

Our little group even managed to catch a glimpse of Jeff Bezo’s super yacht sailing in as he and Lauren Sanchez enjoyed the last few days together before their lavish wedding.

Out in Hvar Town, there’s something to do and see down each cobbled street. From the 16th-century fortress lording over the city to a museum dedicated to the Hvar detective who pioneered forensic fingerprinting techniques.

From Hvar’s port, sailboats depart for several local swim spots and other islands. The blaring sun can get intense out on the sea, so sunscreen is recommended at the bare minimum, but diving into a still, crystal-clear ocean is an inimitable feeling.

Of course, there’s still Hvar’s vibrant nightlife, but authorities are clamping down on rules this summer to curb the onslaught of rowdy tourists it’s known for collecting. They are limiting noise levels, cutting parties earlier, and adding fines for things like wearing beach attire in certain venues.

Book it

[PLACES] Hvar by Valamar has doubles from £123 (€144), FLEXI Half Board included

Valamar Amicor Resort 4* offers villas from £285 (€334), half Board included

Jadrolinija runs ferries to Stari Grad

Kapetan Luka sails catamarans from Hvar.

Go to Visit Stari Grad and Visit Hvar to find out more.