Civita di Bagnoregio, in the Alta Tuscia region of central Italy, is slowly disappearing as the tuff hill it was built on crumbles – but tourists are still flocking in their droves
A quaint town tucked away in the Lazio hills, less than two hours from Rome, is experiencing a tourist boom as visitors flock to see it before it’s too late. Civita di Bagnoregio, situated in central Italy’s Alta Tuscia region, perches atop a fragile tuff hill that’s gradually eroding.
Dubbed “the dying city” since the 1960s, recent studies in 2020 revealed that the hill shrinks by an average of seven centimetres annually. Researchers have calculated that the land surrounding Civita has diminished by 20 to 25% over the last half-millennium – a decline that’s expected to persist.
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Boasting a rich history that dates back around 2,500 years, Civita di Bagnoregio was established by the Etruscans, reports the Express. The city once lay on a crucial route linking the Tiber River to Lake Bolsena, serving as a key communication pathway.
The Etruscans, cognisant of the area’s seismic volatility, undertook measures to safeguard it from earthquakes by constructing dams and drainage systems for effective rainwater management.
Following the Etruscans, the Romans continued these protective efforts, but subsequent neglect led to rapid deterioration and eventual desertion.
Compounding the issue, the tuff hill beneath Civita is continuously worn away by the erosive forces of two rivers in the valley below, along with the relentless wear of rain and wind.
Civita di Bagnoregio is undeniably one of Italy’s most picturesque and distinctive towns, appearing to float in mid-air on foggy days. Currently, the ancient village is home to around ten steadfast residents, their deep love for their homeland keeping them rooted there.
Thanks to these individuals, Civita retains its predominantly medieval characteristics, enchanting the numerous tourists who visit each year.
Access to the village is provided by a towering 300m concrete bridge, constructed in 1965, which links Civita to the nearby town of Bagnoregio. At the end of this bridge, the Porta di Santa Maria opens onto the quaint alleyways that define Civita.
The streets are adorned with the Renaissance palaces of the Colesanti, Bocca and Alemanni families, alongside typical low houses featuring small balconies and external stairs characteristic of medieval architecture.
There’s certainly no shortage of sights to see and activities to enjoy in Civita. Highlights include the compact Antica Civitas Museum, housed within a residential building, and the cave of San Bonaventura.
This ancient chamber tomb, carved into the tuff wall, is named after Friar Bonaventura da Bagnoregio (1217-1274), the biographer of Saint Francis of Assisi.