James May’s Royal Oak pub in the heart of the Wiltshire countryside is a hidden gem, but how does it compare to Jeremy Clarkson’s The Farmer’s Dog?
While Jeremy Clarkson’s pub has been hogging the limelight, his former Top Gear co-star James May is quietly running a hidden gem in the heart of Wiltshire.
Chloe Govan of the Express ventured to the quaint village of Swallowcliffe, driving through miles of picturesque countryside adorned with vibrant autumn leaves to find this secluded spot. The pub is just over 12 miles from Salisbury, and within a breezy half-hour drive of Stonehenge, yet it feels like a world away, she said.
The pub and the church are the only two public buildings in the entire village. Chloe said the area was totally silent – until she stepped into the Royal Oak, where the hum of cheerful chatter filled the bustling dining room.
Having previously braved long queues to be among the first to enter The Farmer’s Dog on Jeremy Clarkson’s opening day back in August last year, Chloe said she was now eager to see how James May’s pub would stack up against his former colleague and business competitor.
Chloe said: “I kicked off with a plate full of Padron peppers as an appetiser, which was dry and underwhelming until the zesty lime and gochujang mayonnaise dip kicked in. The Korean chilli flavouring was just one indicator that, while Jeremy has an unwavering commitment to serving exclusively local British produce, James is blending in world foods and flavours for his own venue.
“At midday, it was a bit early to sample one of James’ legendary gins, which boast volumes of between 40% and 57%, so instead, I opted for another way to compare his alcohol offerings to Jeremy’s beer brand. While Jeremy’s sausage and mash main is smothered in gravy flavoured by his very own Hawkstone beer, James’ fish and chips main also comes battered in beer.
“In this category, James’ pub could definitely match up to the competition, with the breadcrumb corners of the haddock proving satisfyingly crispy and moreish.
“Hand-cut chips, mushy peas and a generous helping of tartare sauce helped cement it as a great interpretation of a traditional fish and chip dish.”
At £19 at the time of Chloe’s visit, it was £1 pricier than Jeremy’s bangers and mash and the serving size was marginally larger.
There’s only one item on James’ menu that’s considerably more costly than his celebrity opponent’s – the locally sourced “Chateaubriand of Wiltshire beef”, which arrives with field mushrooms, peppercorn sauce, onion rings, hand-cut chips and a watercress salad.
During Chloe’s visit, the dish cost each customer a whopping £75, so she swerved it. While Jeremy has declared he’s absorbing the additional expense of keeping his food local, even if he makes a loss, James appears to be passing it onto punters’ bills, Chloe said – and succulent Chateaubriand tends to be pricey at the best of times.
However, there’s barely any difference when it comes to pudding – her dish at Jeremy’s pub was £8, while a dark chocolate brownie at James’ place was just 50p more.
She said: “The brownie tasted as good as a grandmother’s handmade secret recipe, while it was accompanied by a whirl of sour cherry ripple ice cream and a crunchy piece of chocolate tuile.
Meanwhile, although the Royal Oak might be as remote and isolated as a British village can get, there are loads of attractions within a short drive.
Salisbury is less than half an hour’s drive away, and its four-star Milford Hall Hotel is a surprisingly plush budget alternative to the few rooms available at the Royal Oak.
There’s an art-deco-themed bar with peacock feather carpets and hand-crafted cocktails, sweet and savoury afternoon teas with macarons and strawberry jam-soaked scones and, of course, a restaurant with everything from steaks to seafood.
It’s within walking distance of Salisbury Cathedral, which houses an original well-preserved Magna Carta, and not far from James’ pub.
Stonehenge, the globally renowned 18th-century landscaped gardens at Stourhead – which burst into a riot of colour in autumn – and the lakeside Old Wardour Castle, just four miles from The Royal Oak, are all within easy reach.
You could easily enjoy an entire week here, alternating between thrilling attractions, shopping and relaxing in the picturesque countryside.
Summing up her visit, Chloe said: “The Royal Oak can compete with The Farmer’s Dog on price and quality, but while there are arguably more obvious attractions surrounding the former, the latter prides itself on its patriotic homegrown produce, and the Cotswolds have always been iconic. My verdict? Visit them both.”