Luxembourg may be one of the smallest European countries, but its appeal as a winter holiday destination shouldn’t be underestimated. With castles, fortresses and charming old towns, the nation offers a fascinating glimpse into its history, while vibrant cultural events and a trendy foodie scene keep things fresh. The chic juxtaposition of chocolate-box cottage charm and contemporary comfort proves that sometimes the best things really do come in small packages, as we found out…
Luxembourg at Christmas
We were lucky enough to visit Luxembourg at Christmas time, and what we encountered had all the markings of a festive film. As December arrives, the cobbled streets are awash with twinkling fairy lights, pretty wreaths and rows upon rows of elegantly decorated Christmas trees.
Fully cocooning ourselves in the festivities, we arrived in Luxembourg on St Nicholas Day. On 6 December, children throughout the country eagerly await the arrival of the ‘Kleeschen’ (St Nicholas) and the gifts he brings. Unlike Father Christmas, St Nicholas wears a red bishop’s mitre and carries a crosier. Story has it that he is usually accompanied by the ‘Houseker’, his bogeyman-type companion, who gives twigs to children who have misbehaved. We must have been on the nice list, as awaiting us in our hotel room on arrival was a gorgeous assortment of sweet gingerbread and fruit, reports OK!.
The Christmas markets are a treasure trove of festive delights. A fusion of French, German and Belgian influences, these markets strike the perfect balance between cosmopolitan chic and charming quaintness. There’s a wide array to choose from, from the grandeur of the Grand Ducal Christmas Market in Luxembourg City to the lesser-known stalls in nearby towns.
Where to stay in Luxembourg
Just a 15-minute tram ride from the heart of Luxembourg City, Mama Shelter is lively hotel is known for its eclectic and creative flair. The entrance lobby could easily be mistaken for Santa’s grotto during the festive season, adorned with colourful twinkling lights and kitschy Christmas decorations. While children will adore the Disney cartoons at breakfast and Space Jam masks in the bedrooms, adults can indulge in the luxuriously comfortable king-size beds, a selection of free movies and steaming hot showers (ideal for warming up after chilly winter walks).
An artistic touch permeates the lobby, restaurant and bar, and is reflected in all 145 bedrooms with cool, graffiti-inspired monochrome carpets contrasted with soothing pastels and cosy furnishings.
But it’s not just about style here, there’s plenty of substance too. Toiletries are sustainable, featuring organic solid products developed in collaboration with French skincare brand Absolution.
Don’t miss out on the hotel’s in-house bakery, where, as bakery manager Kévin Jeanson says, all products are made with “a lot of love and butter”.
Learn more
Mama Shelter is lively hotel a 15-minute tram ride from Luxembourg city centre, and known for its eclectic and creative flair.
Where to eat and drink in Luxembourg
Café-Restaurant Um Dierfgen is a popular lunch spot, serving traditional Luxembourgish dishes like ‘Judd mat Gaardebounen’ – smoked pork collar with broad beans – and ‘Kniddel’, a dumpling often served in a bacon and cream sauce.
Looking for something special? Make your way to Public House in Ville-Haute. This fine-dining restaurant prioritises sustainability and local produce, with artisanal wines carefully chosen to complement each dish. The oxtail ravioli with ricotta and sage from the tasting menu is a must-try for meat lovers, but the pine-flavoured ‘spruce ice cream’ with pecan nuts was a standout for us – a zesty, festive treat. It’s clear that head chef Anne Knepper and her team are passionate about their food, making a meal here an unmissable experience.
We also indulged in a vegetarian ‘tartiflette’ at the Christmas markets – a rich, hearty dish typically made with potatoes, reblochon cheese, bacon lardons, onions and cream. This French recipe involves layering ingredients in a baking dish and baking until the cheese melts and the top turns golden.
In Vianden, within a 200 year old abandoned cinema, is Ancien Cinema. This unique lunch spot boasts original cinema seats and antique spotlights, paired with vintage chairs and dining tables from the swinging sixties. We tucked into a hearty burger and chips, slathered in Luxembourg’s own mustard, while classic cartoons played on the big screen.
What to see in Luxembourg
To truly discover Luxembourg, grab the LuxembourgCard. It offers free or discounted entry to over 80 top attractions, including a tour of the Bock Casemates – an intricate network of underground tunnels carved into rock – and a plethora of museums and cultural experiences.
Art enthusiasts should make a beeline for the ‘Museumsmile’, where Casino Luxembourg, Villa Vauban and the Mudam Museum of Modern Art are all within a stone’s throw of each other.
The Museumsmile is located on Luxembourg City’s fish market, the ‘Fëschmaart’. Despite its name, this former intersection of two Roman roads doesn’t actually sell fish. Instead, it serves as a bustling square where locals and tourists alike can soak up the city’s atmosphere. With festivals and performances often taking place nearby, it’s worth checking what’s happening during your visit.
If you’ve still got Christmas presents to purchase, Luxembourg City’s luxury boutiques are sure to have something that will impress. From high-end brands like Louis Vuitton and Cartier to independent craft and jewellery shops, there’s something for every taste – and budget.
But don’t just stick to the city, make sure to venture north by train (public transport in Luxembourg is free). The town of Vianden is about an hour away and it’s here you’ll discover a stunning medieval castle, nestled against a forest backdrop. Located next to the Our River, in Luxembourg’s Ardennes region, Vianden Castle is one of Europe’s most beautiful feudal residences from the Roman and Gothic periods. History enthusiasts will love delving into the castle’s intriguing past (free entry with the LuxembourgCard), while those who take advantage of Vianden’s numerous hiking trails will be treated to breathtaking views.
How much does it cost to go to Luxembourg?
Return flights from Manchester to Luxembourg start from £107 per person, flying with LuxAir. Bed and breakfast for two at Mama Shelter starts at £105 per room, per night. For more information about Luxembourg and to plan your trip, see Visit Luxembourg.
