Exclusive:
Swedish Lapland isn’t just a place for kids to meet Santa, as our writer Amy discovered on an Arctic adventure to this magical part of the world
Visiting Lapland may be on many children’s wish lists, but I’ve never witnessed a more excited bunch of adults as the Northern Lights appeared before us on our trip to northern Sweden. There is no guarantee, so we were incredibly lucky to see them on two consecutive nights – it was so special.
But every day brought something new, from sledding with huskies and hiking in snowshoes to learning how to build a fire, meeting the indigenous Sámi people and their reindeer, and donning survival suits to plunge into the Bothnian Sea.
Lapland is part of the Arctic and used to describe all of northern Scandinavia. The largest city is Luleå, a short flight from Stockholm and the gateway to a magical land of towering pines and blue skies.
You might catch a glimpse of the aurora borealis from the early August to the end of April. Temperatures drop as low as -30°C from December until February.
Where to stay in Lapland
We stayed at Brändön Lodge, on the edge of the Bothnian Sea, about half an hour’s drive from Luleå Airport. There are 15 cabins overlooking the islands of the Luleå archipelago and the Bay of Bothnia, and it’s a great base from which to explore – kitted out with snow suits and boots. The main lodge houses a restaurant, bar and lounge area where you can play board games in front of the fire. There’s also several sauna and relaxation cabins.
We also spent the night at eco-lodge Arctic Retreat in Överstbyn (FYI, Harry Potter actor Daniel Radcliffe has visited), which has three luxury log cabins on the edge of the Råne River, surrounded by a pine forest. Cosy and intimate, each has its own outdoor hot tub and indoor fire with lots of living space.
The food in Lapland
On our first night, we were taken by sled across the frozen bay to dine in what looked like a garden shed, with a barbecue underway outside and prosecco chilling in the snow. Inside was warm and cosy, and we sat down to reindeer and smoked elk all served by our personal chef.
Lunch on day two saw us cook our own reindeer over a roaring fire in one of Brändön Lodge’s teepees (under expert guidance, of course). Another day, we ate lunch outdoors at one of several public picnic spots by the Kalix River, where we enjoyed chicken goulash with chorizo cooked over a fire, as we sat on logs.
In both hotels and elsewhere, there is plenty of fresh fish, meatballs, reindeer, elk and moose, plus the ubiquitous lingonberries (which are like cranberries), and vegan and vegetarian options.
What to do in Lapland
The freshest catch of the day, however, has to be the perch from ice fishing – which our knowledgeable guide Arne caught and smoked over a fire built on the ice. Ice fishing requires some patience, and you have to drill through the thick ice with what looks like a giant corkscrew first.
Earlier that day, we had set out in our snowshoes for a hike, learning about the local flora and fauna, and rocks formed by glaciers many years ago. We found lingonberries and boiled water for ‘tea’ over fires we proudly built ourselves in the snow.
Another highlight was meeting the Sámi people and hearing about their rich history, and also feeding the reindeer at Kaatis Reindeers in Överkalix. This was followed by a visit to the huskies at family-run Winterdog tours. There wasn’t enough snow to go sledding when we were there, but we spent a wonderful time playing with the dogs, and were lucky enough to meet a litter of six-week-old puppies.
For the more adventurous, a visit to Arctic Bath on the Luleå River is not to be missed. Here, a ‘sauna master’ guides you in the, which offers day or night ritual of sauna and open-air ice baths – four minutes in the sauna, followed by a dip in the ice-cold waters, repeated twice. I only lasted 10 seconds in the water on the first go, but built up to a fairly respectable 30 seconds the final time. It’s not for the faint-hearted, but you do feel invigorated afterwards.
The Polar Explorer Icebreaker, meanwhile, takes you out into the Bothnian Sea on a three-hour cruise. When it stops, you can walk across the ice and – for the real thrill-seekers – swim in the dark water in a flotation survival suit. It’s a bit daunting, but once in and bobbing about among big chunks of ice, it’s quite relaxing.
See the Northern Lights
Our first glimpse of the Northern Lights was at about 9pm in the evening, just as dessert was being served. There was an excited knock on the window and spoons went flying as we rushed outside to see the eerie, extraterrestrial- looking light show. It slowly grew brighter and then turned green, becoming increasingly more vibrant. Elsewhere a streak of purple arced across the sky as the green light turned into ribbons. Just beautiful, and a reminder that Swedish Lapland is like Narnia – although real, it’s just as magical.
How much does it cost?
The Aurora Zone’s four-day Brändön Lodge – The Call of Adventure holiday package costs from £1,805 per adult and £1,215 per child and includes return flights from London Heathrow to Luleå (via Stockholm), including transfers, all listed activities, three nights’ accommodation, three breakfasts and three three-course dinners. To book, visit theaurorazone.com. While Amy’s itinerary was customised, this holiday package offers a similar experience to the tailor-made trip the group enjoyed.