We started our trip at the five-star Pine Cliffs resort about a thirty-minute drive west of Faro. As you might expect from the name, it sits on a cliff top, with mesmerising sea views. The vibe is laid-back luxury; sun loungers are spaced out in the lush gardens, giving you natural shade from the trees, or you can settle beside one of the eight pools – the one with a swim-up bar if you like a daytime cocktail, the pool next to the ocean suites for a more tranquil afternoon in the glorious sunshine, or the indoor one should you be travelling in the cooler months or like the idea of stepping straight out of the water and into a steaming Jacuzzi.
A wooden boardwalk leads down to the wide stretch of golden sand at the bottom of the majestic sandstone cliffs. There are quite a few stairs, but a lift will take you down the steepest part. We started every morning with a beach stroll at sunrise – you can walk for miles.
Our bedroom was light and airy, with a balcony overlooking the gardens. We were particularly impressed with the Serenity products in the bathroom. It’s rare that a hotel conditioner can detangle our unruly hair, but this did the trick nicely.
The resort is also home to tennis and padel courts, a nine-hole golf course – and golf academy for those wanting lessons, a gym, a spa, a children’s play area and an impressive eleven bars and restaurants, covering every cuisine from Japanese to seafood. So if you’re looking for a deeply relaxing break with all the amenities you need on your doorstep, you’re in the right place.
The restaurants at Pine Cliffs Resort
We dined at six of Pine Cliffs’ restaurants during our stay and found both the quality and service to be excellent without exception. One of our favourite meals was at Corda Café, where we feasted on sizzling prawn tacos and a salmon sushi poké bowl in the open patio setting. We also sampled Portuguese-Indian fusion dishes at Rohini, where the fragrant aromas will have your mouth watering before you’ve even ordered, and tucked into the rich, baked aubergine lasagne in the pretty courtyard of the Italian taverna, Portofino.
For lunch with a sea view, we headed to Maré down on the beach for the catch of the day, in our case tuna. There’s something about eating fish with the sound of waves crashing against the shore in front of you that makes it taste even better. The seafood menu is also superb at O Pescador, where you can pick your fish from the catch on display. We loved our whole baked sea bass, accompanied by roast potatoes and a green salad.
For a lighter bite, we had lunch at Zest, this time choosing a fresh salad of kale, edamame, pistachios and feta. Our only regret is that we didn’t have a few more nights to check out the restaurants we missed.
What to do at Pine Cliffs Resort
For an adrenaline-fuelled adventure, we headed out on a Dolphin and Caves boat excursion. It started with an exhilarating high-speed journey out to sea – be prepared for a few splashes – and before long we were marvelling at the dolphins jumping in and out of the waves around us. The second half of the tour is a more leisurely cruise past giant sandstone arches and secluded beaches, with the
boat nosing its way into some of the caves scattered along the coastline. Braver folk than us were out in kayaks, but we were very happy with our comfy seats on a much more stable catamaran.
Back at Pine Cliffs, we headed to the chic Serenity Spa, starting with a visit to the thermal suite’s hydrotherapy pool, salt sauna, herbal sauna and experience showers. We debated between a full body massage and the signature treatment, Senses of the Algarve, which includes a scrub using sand from the beach and a hydrating wrap using carob and orange oil. In the end, the massage won, and by the end of it we were so relaxed we only just managed to stay awake to enjoy the last few minutes.
To round off a brilliant day, we headed to the resort’s clifftop bar, Mirador, which is the perfect spot for a sundowner. There we enjoyed champagne cocktails with complimentary nibbles as the sky turned a beautiful shade of pink on the horizon.
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Pousada Convento Tavira hotel
After three fantastic days at Pine Cliffs, we moved on to Tavira, a small town just over 20 miles east of Faro, and checked into Pousada Convento Tavira – a grand 16th century convent that was converted into a luxury hotel in 2006. It’s now home to 36 rooms centred around a beautiful courtyard, where breakfast and dinner are served. Old and new fuse together seamlessly, with original stonework on display in the main building while the outdoor pool and sun deck are sleek and modern.
The convent is ideally located just a short walk from Tavira’s formidable churches, Roman bridge and ancient castle ruins. Al fresco dining is the main evening activity in town and our favourite restaurant was Nó De Gosto, where our mushroom risotto and garlic prawns were delicious. We didn’t order dessert, though, because there’s an ice cream shop – Delizia da Ponte – just round the corner that quickly became our daily haunt.
Dinner at the convent itself is also a wonderful experience. Our crispy ravioli and seared tuna were both excellent, and it’s such a beautiful setting in the softly lit, peaceful courtyard surrounded by the ancient cloisters. As for breakfast, you’ll find everything from Portuguese pastries to bacon and eggs in the buffet, as well as fresh fruit, juices, a cheese selection and cereals.
Every Saturday morning there is a yoga class in the gardens, and if you want to make your stay even more relaxing, there is a treatment room where you can book in for a massage or a facial. The staff at the hotel couldn’t have been more welcoming during our visit, making it a truly memorable stay.
What to do in and around Tavira
Along this coast, a series of islands make up the Ria Formosa Natural Park and they all have vast sandy beaches accessible by boat. From the old town of Tavira, a 10-minute crossing brings you to Ilha de Tavira, which has the best beach if you value your privacy. With nearly seven miles of golden sand it’s not hard to find a spot away from other sun worshippers. There are loungers for hire if you prefer not to lie on the sand and cafés for when you fancy a snack.
We also visited Ilha de Cabanas, which has the cheapest, quickest and most frequent boat crossings. Crossings to Ilha de Tavira are about every half hour but here the boats are smaller and the distance is shorter so the departures are every few minutes. In Cabanas itself, a cute seaside town fronted by a wooden boardwalk, we enjoyed a lunchtime pizza with a sea view at Gio & Gabi.
Our final beach stop was Ilha da Fuseta, where we found the shallowest waves. You can go quite far out and still stand up, which is great for less confident swimmers. We travelled by train to Fuseta, and it was around 10-15 minutes’ walk from the station to the boat jetty.
How much does it cost?
Rooms at Pine Cliffs start at £175 per night for two adults with breakfast. Rooms at Pousada Convento Tavira start at £151 per night for two adults B&B. Based on March departures. Visit Serenity Spa and AlgarExperience for spa visits and excursions, and Visit Algarve for more information on the region. British Airways and easyJet fly to Faro from the UK.