We discovered unforgettable scenery, culture and cuisine on a trip to the Canadian province of Newfoundland and Labrador’s western coast, with glacier-carved fjords and the Earth’s mantle
Majestic mountains, ancient glaciers and miles of untouched landscapes where moose and caribou thrive are just part of what makes Western Newfoundland so spectacular. With a rich history filled with Indigenous, English, Irish and French influences, this region in the Canadian province of Newfoundland and Labrador is a place of pure beauty, with a charm echoed by its residents.
You’ll be welcomed with open arms and told, “It’s the people that you’re going to meet that will make your experience.” The uncrowded paradise stretches 750 kilometres and is one of the rare places in the world you can walk on the Earth’s mantle and gaze at glacier-carved fjords. The area is known to experience four seasons in a day, as locals told us, “If you don’t like the weather, just wait five minutes!”
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Cosy cabins
Our first stop was family-run Shallow Bay Motel & Cabins in the small fishing village of Cow Head. Our room was cosy and comforting with views out to the serene waters. The inviting wooden porch was the perfect spot to enjoy a coffee in the morning, and the motel also offers guests a dip in its outdoor heated pool or hot tub overlooking the sea.
Our next stay was further down the coast in the town of Norris Point. Sugar Hill Inn is set on a hillside and has generously sized rooms and wrap-around porches. Our room had charming wooden floors and interiors, and an outside entrance led to our decking area with wooden Adirondack chairs for lounging.
Natural wonders
Carved by glaciers during the last Ice Age more than 10,000 years ago, the landlocked fjord of Western Brook Pond is one of the most popular places to visit in Newfoundland. Located in Gros Morne National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it has towering cliffs, misty waterfalls cascading from 2,000-feet high and a pristine freshwater lake. We marvelled at this breathtaking fjord with its picture-postcard views during a two-hour boat trip, complete with insightful commentary from a friendly Bontours crew member. Keep an eye out for the hidden face in the rocks, naturally chiseled by time and weather, known as the Tin Man.
The Tablelands in Gros Morne National Park is one of the few places in the world where you can encounter the Earth’s mantle – the layer of silicate rock between the crust and the outer core. In an experience we won’t forget in a hurry, we walked on the exposed ground – which we were told is similar to that on Mars – along a 4km trail through the striking valleys.
Cultural tour
In Norris Point, we threw ourselves into the local culture and journeyed back in time on an Indigenous Tour with Gros Morne Adventures, experiencing life through the eyes of the first inhabitants. Starting in a canoe, we paddled across serene waters as bald eagles flew above to Bonne Bay, where colourful cabins decorate the shoreline. A speed boat then took us to Gadd’s Harbour where we disembarked to hike through woodland, following moose trails while passing wildflowers, raspberry shrubs and squash berries.
We learnt how locals had a“boil up”, making a campfire to serve tea while out in the wilderness – a tradition many still hold today. We also made Lu’skinikin (bannock), a traditional Indigenous bread, before trying our hand at creating a fire using Stone Age tools.
We also took a stroll around Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse, which once guided fishermen and sailing vessels into Bonne Bay, and sampled local honey during a tour at the Cormack Bee Company. We couldn’t resist buying their red Thai chilli-infused honey to bring back home.
For a night like no other, we attended the annual Writers at Woody Point Literary Festival, where we enjoyed live music from the likes of Ed Robertson, frontman of the band Barenaked Ladies, and who wrote the theme song for sitcom The Big Bang Theory. It was an evening we’ll remember forever.
Coastal cuisine
We discovered a thriving food scene in Newfoundland, with nods to Indigenous dishes while paying homage to its European influences, and a strong focus on fresh fish and seafood. At the Buoy & Arrow Restaurant in Rocky Harbour, we had our first taste of moose in a soup, before sharing a snow crab Nmjinikej dip with salted flatbread chips. A visit here wouldn’t be complete without ordering their signature lobster roll.
Shallow Bay Family Restaurant in Cow Head saw us dine on fresh salmon from their menu of local favourites and sip refreshing beer, brewed with iceberg water, while admiring the views of the bay through their panoramic windows.
Another highlight was Chanterelles at Sugar Hill Inn, which offers a fine dining experience in an intimate yet relaxed setting. We started with the seafood cakes with shrimp, salmon and cod, before relishing the succulent roasted duck breast with partridgeberry and orange gastrique and roasted garlic mash.
The Black Spruce at Neddies Harbour Inn was nothing short of perfection too – even our freshly baked bread with molasses butter to start left us speechless. Some favourites on the menu include the seafood chowder and the Atlantic beef tenderloin.
How to book
Rooms at Shallow Bay Motel start from £87, and at Sugar Hill Inn from £134 per night, based on two sharing. Air Canada offers return flights from London Heathrow to Deer Lake, Newfoundland and Labrador (via Halifax, Nova Scotia) from £587pp. See newfoundlandlabrador.com and atlanticcanadaholiday.co.uk for more details.