Mention spending Christmas in America to Brits and you’ll perhaps hear tales of trips to New York City, Boston or sunny Florida.
There is, however, one dusty little outpost in the Nevada desert that probably wouldn’t be on that list, and it goes by the name of Las Vegas. Sin City is famous for many things but probably not its power to deliver a festive experience.
Given its increasing popularity for numerous pastimes other than gambling, perhaps that’s changing. Fresh from hosting its inaugural Formula One race down, up, down and around the iconic Strip, Vegas is battling against other traditional festive friends in the US to grab your attention. And grabbing attention is something Vegas is fairly familiar with.
From the iconic hotels to the sky-high fountains of the Bellagio hotel and now the arrival of the spectacular Sphere music and entertainment arena, LV knows how to do it – but can it do Christmas with bells and whistles? Well, having arrived all bleary-eyed in the small hours, we spent the morning trying to take in the Christmas display in the Bellagio’s conservatory.
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The Nutcracker-themed spread was a lot to absorb, but even Scrooge would have struggled not to feel at least a little bit festive, so throw in breakfast in Sadelles which blends into the $1million arrangement and you’re feeling like Buddy the Elf. I know I was. Vegas is a mish-mash of attractions, and the casinos obviously dominate everything and everyone. Every hotel guides you in and tries not to let you out, however, with Christmas displays like that, it’s all the more challenging.
It has a charm which is unmistakable, and for a first-time visitor, it’s captivating, though not at all intimidating as some had suggested it might be. This is a place that never stops, much like America in general.
Go to bed at a reasonable hour – after all, we’re Brits suffering from jetlag and need our huge Bellagio beds – but come down for breakfast and the casinos are thronged with gamblers, bleary-eyed, whiskey in hand and cigarette in mouth. What’s their story, you wonder? It’s the richest tapestry of life on full view.
One Midwest chap blew $100,000 (£79,000) on the roulette table as if it were small change he happened to find down the back of his room sofa; this is a long way from the slots of Coney Island in Scarborough! Mingling up and down the Strip was an experience, of course, with Santa Claus rubbing shoulders with Donald Trump look-alikes and Mickey Mouse, and as the temperatures were cooler it made it a far less frenzied experience than in high summer.
The arrival of The Sphere has generated no shortage of attention and during our visitU2 were enjoying their residency. But while Bono was off doing what Bono does, Postcards from Earth was the perfect show to thrust you into a 360-degree immersive experience about our planet.
At one point, I thought I was about to come into the personal space of a polar bear before an elephant popped up to say hello and we were then warned about the damage being done to our planet – all as I sat there drinking water from my plastic bottle. The Sphere is incredible, and worthy of a visit, without any shadow of a doubt.
Top tip – if you want a good look at the arena, catch the monorail which goes from the MGM Grand straight past it. Although the windows are in dire need of repair, you can still get a close-up view on a run-around trip costing in the region of $5 (£3.95). Be quick, though, because there is some suggestion the monorail might be heading for the retirement yard.
Failing that, get on board a helicopter and take a night ride over the Strip – it’ll give you memories to last a lifetime, something Vegas is not short of. Eating in this city is naturally a thing of beauty, and let’s be honest, food dominates our lives, doesn’t it?
The Bedford by Martha Stewart restaurant and Noodles eatery come with personal recommendations. Carson Kitchen in the Old Town is also worth exploring especially if, like me, you love barbecue food.
If you fancy traditional s’mores and a hot chocolate by the ice rink, head to the roof of the Cosmopolitan which, during the colder months, is turned into a winter wonderland. Picture a traditional Christmas scene: ice rink, tree, lights all around and a fire pit to keep you warm and toasty… it’s the perfect place to while away an entire evening.
Vegas is magical in its own way – a captivating mix of colliding cultures – and at Christmas it does what Vegas does best, giving you a feeling that you can’t quite explain, but that leaves you wanting more… but with that added bit of festive sparkle. The 2024 Las Vegas Grand Prix is from November 21-24.
Book the holiday
British Airways (britishairways.com) and Virgin Atlantic (virginatlantic.com) offer daily flights from Heathrow to Las Vegas, with Virgin also offering three flights a week from Manchester. Norse (flynorse.com) flies three times a week from Gatwick.
Rooms at the The Bellagio Hotel & Casino in Las Vegas start at around £150 a night in December. bellagio.mgmresorts.com
Trailfinders offers a seven-night Viva Las Vegas City Break in December from £1,579pp, including flights from Heathrow with Virgin Atlantic, accommodation at the Luxor Hotel & Casino, Vegas Views Helicopter Flight, Las Vegas 2 Day Pass: 20 experiences and Grand Canyon West Bus Tour with Hoover Dam. trailfinders.com
More info at visitlasvegas.com