Watermouth Castle in north Devon is a pixie and fairy-lover’s dream destination – and there’s a hidden gem around the back that would leave all families ecstatic
Nestled in the heart of Devon’s northern coastline lies Watermouth Castle – a renovated Victorian country house that was believed to be home to dozens of faries and pixies… according to one of its earliest inhabitants.
The Ilfracombe castle sits at the top of a hill, overlooking a picturesque harbour full of colourful fishing and sailing boats. Although it might look like any other landmark from the outside, it holds a big secret tourist hotspot in its gardens – an incredibly retro family theme park.
It features vintage arcade and pier machines, water gardens overflowing with hand-crafted toadstools, and even a metal makeshift water clock that decapitates a tin man at 1pm every day. Despite its obscure-sounding attractions, I – along with most other families, according to TripAdvisor – left the castle delighted, simply because my own little one had the best time.
The story behind Watermouth Castle’s quirky attraction comes from the only child of its Victorian inhabitants’ – a young girl called Edith Penderford. The Penderford family lived in the newly-built castle in the mid to late 1800s, and most of the modern day castle’s collections were retrieved by “kooky” Profession P Penderford, the castle’s own literature revealed.
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Edith claimed to see fairies and pixies living around the castle, and even became friends with them. She wrote in her diary, at the time: “I saw my first fairy when I was seven years old.
“The kids in the village didn’t believe me. Horace Whittingsby said I’m full of tall tales, just like my father. Mildred Jones said that things like fairies and pixies existed, scientists would’ve found them by now. But I think the scientists just haven’t been looking hard enough. Magic things like to stay secret. Only a few poeple are meant to see them. That’s what makes them magic.”
Fast-forward 110 years or so, and the castle is transformed into an incredible family theme park, centred around Edith’s magical beliefs in pixies and fairies.
To even make it into the theme park grounds, you take a wild trip through time inside the main castle function rooms. Relics from the past greet you in every room, featuring funky metallic ornaments, a giant train set, and even a mechanical brass orchestra blaring out some iconic modern-day songs we’ve all come to know and love.
The final stop before heading out to the theme park is a cute ‘Water Show Extravaganza’, where 1,000 jets of water dance to synchornised lights and music. My little one tried her best to clap along as the 1920s organ blared out ‘Singin’ in the Rain’ – before obviously doing her best to jump into the water (she thankfully didn’t).
After a short trek around the castle grounds, you’ll end up at the main attraction – a toddlers’ version of Thorpe Park. There’s a big river ride – which is kind of like a river rapids-type ride, except without the rapids – classic spinning cooking pots. We particularly enjoyed the ‘Sea Lion Water-Go-Round’ ride, which is similar to the iconic Disneyland Dumbo ride.
My 18-month-old daughter was remarkably mesmorised by the very blue water while she was going around and around. We also spent about 20 minutes sat watching her run around the topsy-turvy Rolling Bridge again and again… and again.
It’s basically a small corridor with one door in and one door out, complete with a little bridge connecting each side of the room. But, the entire room spins around with funky strobe lights, which is supposed to leave you feeling all wobbly.
All of the attractions are built on the side of a big hill, with two giant, interconnecting playgrounds at the very top. Multiple huge wooden structures spread out over a 60-70m stretch, with numerous tube slides to keep littles ones entertaining for hours.
If being dragged up and down ladders/slides (…and then up and down, up and down etc.) isn’t enough, you can find a bizarre – yet weirdly fascinating – teddy bear collection tucked away in the corner. Hundreds of bears are chilling out in their own little cavern – some playing on see-saws, while others hang from the ceiling. Seen-to-be-believed.
Once you’ve finished exploring the theme park, you might choose to stay inside Watermouth Castle to avoid those pesky rush hour queues to get home. If you do decide to stay at the castle, you’re in for a treat. There are seven self-catered apartments available, with the largest holding up to six people – the Rhododendron suite.
This apartment has three huge bedrooms and two bathrooms, as well as a separate upstairs annexe. Its communal living room features a massive smart TV, so we could log into Netflix and let the little one watch Shaun The Sheep while she had her breakfast. It’s also got a perfectly-sized kitchen with all the amenities you’d need, as well as some essential foods and drinks to see you through.
Castle guests will also have access to the on-site swimming pool, which is contained in its own little poolhouse. Toddling outside across the pavement to the pool was strangely one of my daughter’s highlights – the novelty of something new.
Four of Watermouth Castle’s seven apartments have recently been renovated, including the Rhododendron. It’s now got a plush corner sofa that fits six people, as well as a very large wooden dining table.
The maroon-coloured rug in the middle of the floor is particularly soft for your feet – especially after a long day of walking. You’ll also find several cartoon pictures of animals dotted around the apartment too, including two very large rabbits kissing above the dining table.
The little one also enjoyed reading the story of a pelican munching on a fish, which is embedded in stained glass on one of the windows. She didn’t really understand it, but she liked the colours.
Book it
Watermouth Castle is open this year until Sunday November 2 – get in while you still can. Day tickets cost £19 for adults, £5 for children.