I can’t lie, I was terrified. I couldn’t really understand what had possessed me to don a bright red boilersuit, a hi-tech harness and then let myself be attached to a rope.
And at some point I was going to have to leave the summit room and step out on to the edge of a metal platform that sits 1,168ft above the ground and wraps around the CN Tower in Toronto, the largest city in Canada. A bit of courage and a few short steps later I did walk out, the Ontario city laid out (far) below me and I felt alive, on top of the world.
Adrenaline coursing through my body, I felt a huge grin spread across my face.
Did the nerves go away? No, but surprisingly quickly I felt comfortable enough to cautiously pop my feet over the edge for Toes Over Toronto before leaning out for a bird’s-eye view of a “toy” train trundling along the tracks that wind through the high rises.
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You can literally see for miles, from the Toronto Islands sitting in sun-sparkled Lake Ontario in one direction, across the urban landscape out to misty mountains far in the distance in the other. You can be just a little daring and walk across the glass floor and see sharks “swimming” across the roof of Ripley’s Aquarium from the viewing platforms. And of course the views are just as spectacular from the floor-to-ceiling glass windows and the glass lifts that run up and down the outside of the tower.
Afterwards, from the Steam Whistle Brewery set in an old railyard around the train-turning platform, we enjoyed a Pilsner while looking up at the new explorers out on the edge and appreciated our accomplishment. We’d arrived in Toronto a couple of days earlier on the no-frills Icelandic airline PLAY whose mantra is “Pay Less Play More”, and with tickets starting from as little as £300 return there will definitely be a few more dollars burning a hole in your pocket to splash out on experiences like the EdgeWalk.
The new option of a stopover in Iceland at no extra cost on the flights is an added attraction. Yes, like all no-frills airlines, you pay extra for cabin and hold bags and food, and there is no entertainment, but the cost even with these added is still very reasonable.
The Airbus A320/321neo was comfortable, and legroom was generous. The food choices were basic but tasty and the crew were friendly and helpful. Overall, I was impressed. Rather than flying into Pearson International airport, Play flies into John Munro Hamilton airport, an hour or so’s drive from the city. I would say this is possibly the only downside as transport options into Toronto city centre seemed limited.
So we opted to make the most of our arrival into Hamilton and stayed a night in the charming nearby village of Ancaster, one of the oldest communities in Canada. A suite in the Barracks Inn, one of the historic and beautifully preserved buildings that make up the main street, was home for the night. I loved the tasteful décor in soft greys with a feature rug and the high princess and the pea bed perfect for jetlag recovery.
A short walk from the Inn is Ancaster Mill restaurant, set around a waterfall that provided power in the past, where I dined on grilled branzino, a type of sea bass, and failed to resist the miso maple tart to finish. Well I was in Canada, after all. And before leaving the Hamilton area it’s well worth visiting the fascinating Canadian Warplane Heritage Museum.
Back in Toronto there was plenty to explore from my hotel for the next few nights. Hotel X is located on the lakefront close to Downtown and makes the most of its 360-degree views. My corner suite looked out over Lake Ontario, one of the North American Great Lakes, through floor-to-ceiling windows. It is a modern, comfortable and welcoming hotel, I loved the living wall and trees in giant plant pots that welcome you in reception.
Getting around the city is easy – the subway and my own two feet did most of it, with historic Fort York a short walk from the hotel, the place where British soldiers stood alongside First Nations and Canadian militiamen to prevent the US’s mission to capture the city in the Revolutionary War.
We all know that an army marches on its stomach, and across town on a food tour around St Lawrence Market with Kevin and Caitlin of Culinary Adventure Co we were introduced to some great stomach-fillers. There has been a market on this site for more than 100 years, with traders selling everything from fruit to maple-flavoured mustard cheese and fresh salmon vodka gravlax.
Kevin even sent me on my way to the Kensington Market area of town where a plethora of front rooms have been turned into vintage clothing shops mixed in with quirky cafes and live music bars.
Despite a happy hour or so of shopping I failed to locate a pair of cowboy boots that fitted. I did, however, find the ones of my dreams at the Bata Shoe Museum; unfortunately those weren’t for sale but part of an amazing collection of footwear. While our hotel had a state-of-the-art gym, tennis courts and Pilates classes at its fitness club 10XTO, plus a rooftop pool, I chose instead to get my exercise fix on a bike tour out to Toronto Islands.
Our guide Marina from Toronto Bicycle Tours and I headed in the sunshine through the high rises of Downtown to the ferry port for a 20-minute journey to Hanlan’s Point. Marina was a font of knowledge on the islands, from the old baseball pitch where Babe Ruth hit his first home run to a lighthouse with a grisly ghost story. But it is the nature and the peace away from the urban sprawl that attracts Torontonians, and I can’t say I blame them.
Indeed, sitting in the shade of a tree overlooking the city skyline was a good way to look back over my time in this excellent city.
24hrs in Reykjavik
The Hallgrimskirkja church is a must, with its beautiful, simple and serene Scandi interior such a contrast to its impressive monolithic exterior. A tower tour gives you 360-degree views across the city skyline it dominates. In the old harbour area is the Maritime Museum where you can explore the fishing industry the island has relied upon from the time of settlement, while the nearby Saga Museum tells tales of Vikings settlers and how the country’s volcanic eruptions have shaped it.
A scenic 45-minute coastal drive from Reykjavik is Hvammsvik Hot Springs. We were recommended to start with a dip in the chilly Atlantic Ocean before warming up in the various geothermal pools with temperatures up to 42C. Enjoy a Úlfrún IPA while taking in views over the bay as steam floats around in the cool evening air.
Souvenir shopping covers woollens with puffins or Scandi prints and volcanic rock jewellery. We checked in to the Grandi Hotel in the creative quarter, where the industrial chic vibe reflects its former use for marine engineering and a steelworks. I loved the polished concrete and wood features mixed with a pop of colour in my comfortable courtyard view room.
Follow up your hot springs experience with a baked brie and locally sourced crowberries, and the locals’ favourite fish soup in the onsite Stormur bistro. The hotel’s breakfast was fabulous too but if you’re in need of a pastry pick-me-up head to a Braud & Co bakery for a cinnamon roll, still warm from the oven. Divine.
Falling for the power of Niagara
A day trip to Niagara Falls is essential, and my guide built the anticipation with stops at various viewpoints en route, including the whirlpool in the Niagara Gorge.
The main event is an assault on the senses and the Hornblower boat experience takes you to the Canada/US border in the middle of the Niagara River that feeds the three thundering falls: American, Bridal and Horseshoe. The roar of the boat’s engine was drowned out by the 681,750 gallons of water per second that flows over the Horseshoe Falls alone, and the mist thrown up resulted in many a soaked selfie and screams of delight from the crowds.
You cannot fail to be thrilled and awed by Niagara’s sheer power.
Book the holiday
PLAY offers flights from Stansted and Liverpool to Keflavik, Iceland, Keflavik, with connections to Washington DC, Baltimore, Boston, New York Stewart and Toronto; Stansted to Toronto from £300 return.
Rooms at the Hotel X Toronto by Library Hotel Collection start at around £179 a night.
Rooms at The Barracks Inn in Hamilton start at around £145 a night.