A traveller visited the Devon town of Ilfracombe that at first glace is a beautiful tourist destination, but beneath the surface is something far more complicated
There’s so much about the North Devonshire town of Ilfracombe, but not everything is as it seems. On the face of it, the natural beauty it boasts is by far its biggest attraction, and it leaves no wonder why it has become such a popular tourism hotspot.
Yet if you look just a little bit deeper, you will uncover something far more controversial. Whether it’s the concerns locals share about housing, its dying high street or the overall feeling the historic cultural hub is slowly losing its identity.
Ilfracombe has a laundry list of amenities including beautiful beaches and the iconic South West coastal path. Then there’s the harbour with a plentiful offering of shops and dining spots.
For those with an eye for history, however, there’s the Bronze Verity. It is a Damian Hirst sculpture that is well regarded by the town, seen similarly as a landmark after it was first unveiled back in 2012.
Devon Live’s Abigail Neep spoke to tourists to best understand the overall feeling about Ilfracombe, with one saying: “It’s beautiful and so different to where we live in County Durham. The weather is better, everyone is so nice.
“It’s very cheap for the tourists and public transport is accessible. Even when it’s raining there’s things to do inside, like the aquarium.”
But what became slowly apparent was how different locals perceive their town, seeing beyond the summer buzz and instead offering a far more brutal perspective. Housing, anti-social behaviour and a struggling high street were of note.
As described by Abigail: “Ilfracombe was a popular Victorian seaside resort and boasts tall, often five-storey buildings that retains the town’s Victorian character, but they’re also proving to be a part of the problem.”
Michelle, owner of View Apartments in North Devon, explained: “A big problem is the Victorian housing, the councils are keen to keep them for that Victorian look, but a lot of buildings are empty and derelict. The five storey houses have no lift and can’t house the elderly or infirm, they’re just not suitable for families who want two to three bedrooms and a bathroom.
“They’re also too much to run, when people buy them they haven’t got the money to maintain them. They also have single-glazed windows which is bad for the environment because they let all of the heat out, they’re not efficient housing.”
Parking is also a common concern, while affordability issues continue to push residents out. The social scene is problematic with cases of kids causing criminal damage, as well as anti-social behaviour linked with alcohol and drug use.
“The high street is sometimes just not safe,” warned one resident. And Abigail got first-hand experience of the terror that reigns over the town regularly.
She admitted: “No longer than 15 minutes after parking my car, I saw a bust-up in the park near the monument, where three men had a fist fight.”
Sector Inspector for Ilfracombe, Rich Preston, acknowledged the anti-social behaviour and said they are doing their best to tackle it: “We are aware of a number of reported issues relating to street drinking and anti-social behaviour in Ilfracombe over recent months. The town centre remains our neighbourhood policing priority and we are determined to help ensure that Ilfracombe is both a safe and pleasant place to live or visit.”
The result of such disorder has left the high street “run down” and “crumbling”, while a local shop owner described Ilfracombe as “wasted potential”.
“Ilfracombe high street is an opportunity wasted, so much is bare, it’s shocking. No-body is taking advantage of this place,” they said. “Everything is notoriously closed, no-one bringing new ideas, we need a breath of fresh air.”
Despite its flaws, the Ilfracombe community is strong, and residents of the area say they all band together if anyone is in need. “The people are all so friendly and supportive, and there’s a real sense of community,” said Darren from St James’ Tea Room.
Another resident, Linda, who has lived in Ilfracombe for 25 years said: “Overall I like Ilfracombe, the community is what makes it, it’s friendly, kind and caring.”
North Devon Council echoed this sentiment: “The community in Ilfracombe is incredibly strong, with many groups and individuals who are active in improving people’s lives in the town. It would be wrong to say that the community has been diminished by people who have moved to the area.”