A travel writer recently visited one of the UK’s coolest seaside towns – a bustling yet welcoming town boasting a series of excellent beaches and a relaxed atmosphere
With so many seaside towns dotted around the UK, it takes something truly special to stand out, and this coastal hotspot absolutely does. Warm, welcoming, and bursting with character, it’s earned a reputation as both Britain’s friendliest and coolest spot.
Cornwall is acclaimed as the UK’s idyllic slice of paradise. It boasts breathtaking white sand beaches, crystal-clear turquoise waters, and spectacular coastal walks that are unmatched elsewhere in the country.
The county’s allure continues to burgeon, with a plethora of articles praising its dynamic food scene, picturesque beaches rivalling Balinese shores, and artisan bakeries worthy of a visit. Just last year, TimeOut singled out Falmouth as Cornwall’s “coolest town,” placing it ninth in their roundup of the top 15 places to visit in the UK.
Last year, travel writer Fiona Whitty took a trip to Falmouth and encapsulated the essence of the town in a thrilling travel feature. The feature offers a glimpse into why this Cornish haven is quickly becoming one of Britain’s most beloved seaside retreats.
Fiona’s experience in Falmouth
“Just look straight ahead and jump.” With those words from Jacob, I took a deep breath, mustered my courage, and dove off the rocks into the glistening sea.
Jacob cheered, the children applauded, and I emerged gasping. The cold water rushed into my wetsuit, but undeterred, I climbed back up and jumped repeatedly, each time from a slightly higher point.
In a town as ocean-centric as Falmouth, you simply have to immerse yourself in the water. Coasteering was the perfect choice for us. To build our confidence, our guide Jacob, from Elemental UK on Swanpool Beach, had us start with modest jumps about three feet high.
Tim and I decided to bow out when our nerves got the better of us, but the kids – my son Freddie and his mate Krithik, both 15 – were braver, eventually taking on 20-foot drops.
In the midst of our adventure, we swam to various cliffs and ventured into a long, narrow cave. The lads even stumbled upon their own hot tub – a large, shallow rockpool that had been warmed by the sun’s rays, making it a hit with everyone.
Falmouth, nestled on the charming southern coast, is a bustling yet welcoming town complete with top-notch beaches and an easy-going atmosphere. It’s been crowned the UK’s friendliest seaside town and hailed as one of the best places to settle down in the country.
Falmouth gained extra cool points from TimeOut, which dubbed it Cornwall’s “cooler town” and placed it ninth in its listing of the top 15 UK destinations to visit. We made our home at the fantastic St Michael’s Resort.
Perched on our balcony with seafront views, we could observe the lively scene unfolding on Gyllyngvase Beach – or Gylly Beach to locals – frequented by paddle boarders, open-water swimmers, beachgoers building sandcastles and friends gathering together.
Our accommodation was a lavish apartment in The Liner, a separate building from the main hotel, cleverly blending self-catering privacy with access to all the luxurious facilities.
The three bedrooms provided plenty of space for us to stretch out, and the patio doors from the master bedroom, ensuite and spacious kitchen-diner offered breathtaking panoramas. High on our list of culinary experiences was INDIdog, run by the dynamic duo Simon and Vanessa Clark, sitting atop Falmouth’s Grade II-listed harbour wall with captivating views over the River Fal.
Head chef Alfie Hazlitt’s tantalising menu is a celebration of local produce and fresh seafood, caught right on the doorstep. The langoustine, delicately brushed with garlic butter, was an absolute delight, freshly caught off the Isles of Scilly by Scottish trawlermen who traditionally make the journey once a year for a brief two to three weeks.
As we admired the boats gently bobbing in the quay, we savoured plump scallops, silky plaice in a chorizo and bouillabaisse sauce, and a special roasted cod slow-cooked in black garlic. The lads opted for burgers – one gourmet, the other chicken – accompanied by movie star mocktinis, a playful non-alcoholic twist on the classic cocktail.
Tim and I, on the other hand, kept it local with a couple of Cornish gins, including Tinkture made with organic roses, and a crisp sparkling wine from the Cornish vineyard, Camel Valley. Every bite and sip was a testament to freshness, flavour, and finesse.
We had sidestepped a tiresome car journey by taking the overnight sleeper train to Falmouth. The Night Riviera service by Great Western Railway departs London Paddington at 11.45 pm, but to fully embrace this unique experience, we enjoyed a hot drink in the first-class lounge beforehand, a perk included in the cabin cost.
As we departed the station, playing cards in the cosy on-board lounge bar, we felt a distinct Agatha Christie vibe. For overnight travel, you can opt for a reclining chair or splash out a bit more for a cosy cabin that sleeps two in bunk beds and includes a small washbasin.
We chose the upgrade, and after a restful night, we were greeted with a light breakfast delivered to our door just in time for our 7 a.m. arrival at Truro. It was a far more pleasant experience than driving.
Frequent local train services connect Truro to Falmouth, and with St Michael’s just a short stroll away, we dropped off our luggage and were ready to explore by 8 a.m.
Falmouth offers plenty of attractions, such as Pendennis Castle, an imposing fortress constructed by Henry VIII to guard the River Fal. Today, visitors can ascend the original winding stone staircase to the keep for a breathtaking 360-degree view, or visit the Battery Observation Point, which served as a lookout for enemy ships during the Second World War (adult tickets from £14.50, child tickets from £8.60, available at english-heritage.org.uk).
Later, we took a passenger ferry across the estuary to St Mawes, a charming village featuring stylish, pastel-coloured houses along the seafront and a selection of cafes (return tickets for adults cost £13.05, while children’s return tickets are priced at £8.10, available at falriver.co.uk).
The area also boasts another of Henry VIII’s coastal fortresses, St Mawes Castle, renowned for its intricate carvings of the Tudor Royal arms and Latin inscriptions intended to complement Henry and his son Edward (adult tickets start from £8.50, child tickets from £4.50, available at english-heritage.org.uk).
Upon returning to our hotel, we were delighted to find a superb health club complete with an indoor pool, a well-stocked gym, and a variety of fitness classes. We were tempted by the 7am beach yoga, but opted for a mid-morning circuits class in the outdoor gym area to preserve our sleep.
Our instructor, Laurel, led us through a series of challenges that kept us occupied for 45 minutes (and left me aching for much longer).
To ease our weary muscles, Tim and I indulged in the hotel’s stunning spa for a two-hour hydrothermal experience (starting from £50pp). Inside, we relaxed in the 35 °C pool equipped with power jets and massage nozzles, detoxed in the world’s only Cornish sea salt steam room, and dozed on heated loungers.
Outside in the spa garden, we enjoyed the hot tub, cooled off in the cold plunge pool, and warmed up again in a unique wooden barrel sauna.
For an extra dose of relaxation, I treated myself to a luxurious facial with therapist Sarah, who used Elemis’ nutrient-rich Superfood products to soothe my stressed skin. After all this pampering, I felt completely relaxed.
Before our departure from St Michael’s, we savoured a delightful dinner at the charming Brasserie on the Bay. We indulged in ultra-fresh scallops, grilled mackerel, wild sea bass and a hearty Cornish fish stew. Our Falmouth getaway truly served us a slice of the sea.
Book the holiday
Prices may vary at peak times.
- Great Western Railways offers fixed-price family tickets for two adults and four children up to 15 between London Paddington and Truro, Cornwall, for £99.50 each way in standard, £139 in first class. Add on a sleeper berth on the Night Riviera train from £45pp. gwr.com
- A three-night stay in a beachside apartment in The Liner at St Michael’s Resort in Falmouth, Cornwall, costs from £550. Breakfast in the Brasserie on the Bay is £18pp. Hotel roomsare also available. stmichaelsresort.com
- More info at visitcornwall.com