When I told one of my friends I was going to the Maldives, he chuckled. “You’ll go for a week and then need another just to reintegrate into society again,” he said. Baffled, I asked what he meant. “You’ll see,” was his cryptic response, a knowing smile spreading across his face. Well, after seven days on this tiny string of idyllic tropical islands located some 600 miles south-west of Sri Lanka deep in the Indian Ocean, I can see what he means.
With pearl white sands, clear blue seas, and incredible decadence, it is about as far removed from the wet British weather as you could imagine.
Throw in stunning accommodation, a huge array of marine life, and world-class diving, and it is no surprise adjusting to UK life upon your return can take some time. Or, as another one of my friends put it, Maldives PTSD is definitely ‘a thing’.
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A country in its own right, the Maldives comprises more than 1,000 islands, split into 26 atolls. Reaching them involves a flight to Malé, the capital, before a sea plane transfer.
Looking out of the sea plane’s window, it is only then that you realise how minuscule the islands are. Remarkably, the islands’ highest natural point – Mount Villingili – stands at a paltry 17ft.
More than 100 of the islands have resorts, each with their own distinct feel. I stayed on Moofushi and Halaveli, which are run by Constance Hotels & Resorts and take less than an hour by sea plane from Malé.
While Halaveli is notable for its opulence, Moofushi goes for a more pared-down, relaxed, surfer vibe. Make no mistake, both islands offer top-notch luxury, but they embrace their own identities – and Moofushi’s is welcoming and unpretentious. A sign at the arrival jetty reads ‘No shoes, No news’, succinctly summing up its ethos.
Perhaps the most striking aspect of Moofushi – apart from the equatorial heat – is how small it is. You can walk around the entire perimeter of the island in no more than 15 minutes.
That does somewhat limit your options – this is not a destination for bracing walks or long bike rides – but the resort still packs in plenty of facilities to ensure there is lots to do.
As you would expect from islands deep in the Indian Ocean, the water sports on offer are top-notch, particularly the diving in Moofushi’s case. Run by Bluetribe, divers have more than 20 dive points from which to choose, while the currents were, for the most part, gentle and easy to deal with, making it an attractive location for beginners. Visibility was excellent – at least 80ft – and the water temperature was a very pleasant 30C or so.
What makes the diving truly special, though, is the marine life. The waters around the South Ari Atoll, where Moofushi is located, are teeming with a dazzling array of wildlife. It is on the migration route for mantas, whale sharks, dolphins and sea eagles.
After a quick refresher dive in the island lagoon, we headed out to Manta Point where a breathtaking sight awaited us. In what we were later told is a once-in-a-year event, around 100 mantas had gathered for a feeding frenzy. We watched entranced as they frolicked, cavorted and glided past us, often within touching distance, without a care in the world. It was an incredible sight which left even Enzo, our affable Italian diving instructor, visibly moved. If you have no desire to take up scuba diving fear not, there are also regular snorkelling trips to see mantas.
Our next dive took us to the Panettone site, where we encountered barracuda, a couple of four foot reef sharks and a lone sea turtle.
Two things that helped hugely during these dives were the use of nitrox and underwater scooters, both of which we were trained in before heading out to use in the open ocean. Nitrox, a mixture of nitrogen and oxygen, allows for longer dives, shorter surfacing times, and a reduced risk of decompression sickness. As well as being immense fun – and making you feel like you’re in a James Bond film – the scooters allowed us to make significantly faster time under water to sites of interest, meaning more time to marvel at the wildlife while also using less of our nitrox supply.
It is not just during the dives where you see incredible sea life. Dolphins play so regularly just off the beach around breakfast time that it almost starts feeling routine after a week of seeing them every morning while you sip on your flat white.
There is also stunning snorkelling to be had at the house reef just off the beautiful white sands of the island’s beach. Suitable for both beginners and intermediates, it is teeming with life – including lion fish, snappers and trigger fish – as well as beautifully colourful coral.
The service at Moofushi is excellent. Of all the joys the island has to offer, for me the highlight was the simple pleasure of landing at lunchtime after a couple of dives and enjoying a glass or two of chilled white wine served by a sommelier from their extensive range.
The food is also very good, with Manta restaurant offering an excellent variety, from European to Asian cuisine. In a nice touch, one corner is always dedicated to traditional Maldivian food – and it’s delicious. There is also a beach grill, for relaxed a la carte dining on the beach, and two bars.
Unfortunately, though, the island nation is facing an existential threat. The Maldives might only be responsible for 0.003 per cent of global emissions, but its precarious position at an average of just 4ft 11ins above sea level means it is facing an uncertain future thanks to man-made climate change. It is being felt in a variety of ways, including rising temperatures, more frequent storms, and heightened humidity.
Moofushi is not exempt, with coral bleaching a very real problem for the island. The massive sea temperature change which occurred during the 1998 El Niño wiped out up to 90 per cent of live coral in some areas.
Evidence suggests a similar event could be under way, although experts – including Moofushi’s own marine biologist – are so far optimistic as to how little has been damaged. That has not stopped the resort from implementing its own coral replanting strategy, which sees pieces of coral placed in protective cages around the island to promote their regrowth. It is a commendable plan which will hopefully allow future generations to continue enjoying the coral’s dazzling beauty.
If pure decadence and luxury is more your cup of tea then Halaveli, in the North Ari Atoll, is likely to be your best choice. What it lacks in Moofushi’s laid-back Robinson Crusoe charm it more than makes up for with sheer opulence. Think water villas complete with private infinity pools and you are pretty much there. Discreet yet luxurious residences are scattered around the island, while the spacious sandy beaches give you plenty of space and privacy.
There are a number of bars and eateries, including Jing – a high-end restaurant offering Asian-European fusion dishes. It also boasts a hugely impressive wine cellar. It feels unfair to single out one place, because the food in all four of the island’s eateries is superb, with breakfast at Jahaz Restaurant a particular highlight.
The list of facilities is equally impressive. As well as diving and snorkelling, there is a tennis court, gym and swimming pool.
There is also an over-water spa with treatment rooms that look down into the sea. This allowed me to gaze at parrot fish, octopus and even Bob, the resident black-tipped reef shark while enjoying their extensive range of treatments. It was at this point during the last of my many massages that I started to contemplate quite how I was going to manage returning to the UK and dealing with work, rain, and a healthy dose of Maldives PTSD.
Book the holiday
Turquoise Holidays offers three nights’ all-inclusive at Constance Moofushi in a Beach Villa, followed by three nights’ all-inclusive at Constance Halaveli in a Water Villa from £3,149pp, saving £2,100 per couple. Includes flights from Heathrow in June, return seaplane transfers and inter-island speedboat transfer.turquoiseholidays.co.uk
Diving costs approx £128 per dive, including equipment hire and dive instruction. Scooter course costs around £144pp.
More info at visitmaldives.com constancehotels.com