Most people obliviously drive past this lively Welsh market town on the way to better-known tourist hotspots further west — they are missing out
I recently stayed in a lovely Georgian hotel that’s right in the centre of a lively Welsh market town. The hotel is a landmark in the town of Llandelio, and adds even more to colour to the bubblegum-pink, mint-green, and lemon-yellow facades which add pleasing splashes of colour and personality to one of the UK’s most vibrant and community-spirited towns.
Full of 18th and 19th-century buildings, Llandeilo, in the heart of the rolling Carmarthenshire countryside, is also bursting with independent boutique shops, cafés, and a few proper pubs. While it might not get the same hype as Welsh hotspots like Tenby or Narberth don’t let that fool you — Llandeilo punches well above its weight for a small town and is absolutely worth the detour.
It stands high above the Towy valley, with the river meandering slowly underneath an old stone bridge that is one of the few main route into the town. On the town’s fringes, a ruined medieval castle stands on a rocky outcrop looming over the green valley below.
The Cawdor is a standout property in town. Its distinctive cherry-red exterior contrasts against the town’s rainbow strip of buildings and it is the first thing I notice as I roll up on a balmy afternoon with my obliging husband in tow.
According to The Sunday Times Travel this four-star hotel is officially one of the top 100 hotels in the UK. And it’s easy to see why as you step inside and you’re instantly wrapped in lovely Georgian charm.
It’s a roll call of historic property features an open fire, grand high ceilings in the dining room, a snug little bar perfect for a nightcap, and classic sash windows.
This beauty has been around for a while – the current building hails from the Georgian era and is proudly Grade II-listed. But its story goes even further back. In the 17th century it was a busy coaching inn known as The Bear.
At The Cawdor there are 24 beautifully-furnished bedrooms and two luxurious penthouse apartments, each with its own unique style and character. Every room is designed to offer comfort and elegance featuring crisp white Egyptian cotton bedding, plush duck feather pillows, and massive Hypnos beds that promise a restful slumber.
The bathrooms are nothing short of fabulous with premium Melin Tregwynt accessories adding a touch of local charm. You’ll also enjoy free wifi and indulgent Myddfai toiletries (named after the hamlet where King Charles III owned a home when he was Prince of Wales).
We were shown to our room for the night, which was a vast dwelling in the attic. A sizeable fur throw covered bed dominated the space, which had wooden floors, exposed beams, and deep purples blending with soothing creams. The vibe was a bit Bond girl meets Horse and Hound and I loved it.
As with most boutique country hotels there were an inordinate number of cushions, skylights, a huge bathroom, and a writing desk. This room demanded to be enjoyed. I briefly considered room service just to avoid leaving – after all, it was about three times the size of our bedroom at home.
My panicky timekeeping husband managed to persuade me out of my dressing gown and into my finest frock (£4 from Vinted) and we headed for drinks in the pretty courtyard and dinner in the hotel’s on-site restaurant.
Now I’m fully aware this is a Georgian property, and they’ve gone to great lengths to preserve its character, but the dining room? Well, as Dylan Thomas might’ve put it, “brown as owls”.
We’re talking brown floors, brown tables, brown chairs, plus a few fusty paintings that might be worth a fortune – or they could’ve been pulled from a Welsh nana’s house clearance. Who knows?
It wouldn’t hurt to throw in a splash of colour, maybe a wine wall for some pizzazz. But hey, they’ve got wine, and that’s really all that matters. The staff, on the other hand, were fantastically friendly and chatty and more than happy to recommend dishes and wine pairings. I’d hoped the food would be a little more dazzling than the décor and luckily The Cawdor didn’t disappoint.
As a 50-day dry-aged Welsh steak was placed in front of me our young waiter proudly told us that the kitchen uses fresh, seasonal produce sourced locally whenever possible. That’s all well and good but, let’s be honest, what I really care about is whether this steak is cooked right. Thankfully the chef nailed it. The steak was spot on, perfectly pink, drenched in a rich, almost sinful pepper sauce, and crowned with massive onion rings.
My husband went for the fish of the day, battered to crispy perfection, paired with fluffy chips and a homemade tartare sauce that was, I’ll admit, pretty damn good. The malbec also went down a treat.
While I normally opt for pudding the generous portions defeated me and I found myself promising the staff that we would return for the hotel’s signature: old-fashioned sticky toffee pudding. Yes I will absolutely travel for pudding and am already planning our next mini-break.
After a big meal we retired to the stately attic for a lovely slumber wrapped in a snug duvet. I was well rested when I awoke the next day for a day of exploring Llandelio.
Breakfast was a relaxed affair in the dining room. It featured the usual Welsh hotel breakfast offerings such as a full cooked breakfast, smoked salmon with scrambled eggs, and, if you’re feeling old school, grilled kippers.
The verdict: If you’re looking for a stay that combines a bit of history with a lot of comfort The Cawdor delivers. Rooms are snug, staff are chatty, and the food is certainly worth the journey.
Book your stay at The Cawdor here.
Things to do in Llandeilo
Llandeilo is in a wide river valley, which is dotted with ruined medieval castles. Right on the outskirts of town is Dinefwr Castle, accessed on foot via a walk through the gorgeous woodland and parkland of Dinefwr Park, which is now National Trust-owned. A few miles down the road is Dryslwyn Castle, which also looms above the Towy river.
But the jewel in the crown of the castles in this part of the world is Carreg Cennen, which stands at the very edge of a rocky outcrop in as remote a setting as you’re ever likely to find a castle. It’s a stunning site, the views are incredible and you can even descend into a tunnel that runs through a cave. It’s remarkable.
There are masses of other sites around Llandeilo well worth your time, like the beautiful Aberglasney Gardens, Golden Grove Country Park and the National Botanic Garden of Wales. You could easily spend a whole day in each of them. The pretty market town of Llandovery is a short drive up the road and you are on the fringes of the Brecon Beacons.