As a Christmas market cynic, I wanted to see how good it felt to be there
“If you didn’t know you were in Exeter, what city would you guess you were in?” I quizzed my mum as we sat in a bar at the Christmas Market that felt remarkably bustling for a relatively small city.
She took a moment to absorb the vibrant atmosphere at The Cathedral Tavern and responded: “Honestly, I wouldn’t even say we’re in the UK. It feels like we’re on the continent. This is akin to something they’d have in Germany.”
On paper, Christmas markets aren’t really her cup of tea, nor are they mine. The massive crowds, repetitive tunes, and street food aromas result in total sensory overload, adding to the already stressful task of Christmas shopping.
Our encounters with markets in other parts of the country have either been stalls dumped in the middle of an already crowded High Street or a garish and almost cartoonish attempt to mimic a traditional German market, complete with oversized beer steins and bratwursts.
When I fully immersed myself in the Exeter Cathedral Christmas Market last year, I realised how fortunate we truly are. Sure, there’s music and crowds, but it feels like a lot of thought has gone into making it more than just a gimmick.
I had a smashing time at the local stalls last year and even bagged some locally-produced presents, which felt heaps better than splurging on big-name brands. This year, I was dead set on getting Mrs S to see it the same way.
You’ve got to have a strategy for events like this; for us, it all started with scoffing down some grub. Starving amidst throngs of people whilst you’re trying to peek at gifts and juggling a messy bite isn’t my cup of tea.
The food section was heaving but surprisingly the queues moved quickly. If you’re venturing to a Christmas market for the first time, take a tip from me and munch a bit earlier than usual to dodge the masses.
After brilliant fried chicken from Urban Cowboy Street Food we kick offed our pressie hunt. Mum fancied finding quirky little bits and bobs, but though there was a truckload of stuff, the diversity wasn’t up to much. She said: “There were a lot of multiples offering the same thing. It would have been nice if there were more traditional Christmas food gifts and more unique things that would work as stocking fillers.”
Aside from nabbing a few divine-scented candles, our shopping outing resulted in a rather light haul. After deciding it was time to explore the town and take a breather from the bustling throngs of shoppers, we pledged to circle back to the market later.
“It was starting to feel like we hadn’t done it right,” Mrs S remarked.
However, that feeling shifted when we hit the bar. Faye Williams, co-owner of Barnova which operates the market’s two watering holes, pointed out the substantial investment involved in setting up these venues and their commitment to backing local enterprises, justifying the slightly steeper prices for a brew or mulled wine compared to one’s local pub.
We approached The Cathedral Tavern with some reservations, anticipating dense crowds and potentially tiresome service delays, along with the struggle to secure seating. These concerns, however, proved unnecessary.
“The staff were lovely and it didn’t feel like you had to push your way in to order,” remarked mum, visibly relieved. “The service was quick and we even found somewhere to sit.”
The atmosphere was truly electric. Everywhere you turned, there were smiles aplenty and a palpable sense of joy. I only found one person looking at their phone instead of chatting with friends. It was like a mood switch; any earlier feelings of deflation were instantly swapped for high spirits.
Even mum ended up making a surprise connection: “I made friends with someone’s very cute dog. What’s not to love? ” she beamed.
The market is in full swing until Sunday, December 15, open between 10am to 7pm from Monday to Wednesday, from 10am to 9pm on Thursday to Saturday, and on Sundays from 11am to 5pm.
