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The Great Western Railway Night Riviera Sleeper takes travellers all the way from London Paddington to Penzance in Cornwall and back again while everyone else is asleep
Daily Mirror’s Jane Lavender takes the sleeper train to Penzance
Cornwall – the land of stunning seascapes, shanties and pasties. One of my favourite places in the whole of the UK and one of the places I wish I could spend more time.
But living on the other side of the country, in the Big Smoke, heading over to the South West for some much-needed sea air and sunshine isn’t all that easy… until I had a brainwave. As one of the the just two sleeper trains the UK boasts, the Night Riviera Sleeper could JUST about make a day tip to Cornwall possible.
Travelling at 11.45pm Monday to Friday and 11.50pm from Paddington, this British rarity takes a sedate route to the coast while those travelling are fast asleep. Arriving in Penzance the following morning, the train stops at various towns and cities across the South West before landing at its final destination.
So, with my New Year resolutions (just about) to try as many new and different things as possible ringing in my ears, I embarked on the trip. I left Paddington on a freezing cold Thursday night in January, and from the minute I arrived at the station, I knew this would be a journey with a difference.
Those travelling on the Night Riviera Sleeper have access to the Great Western Railway First Class lounge at Paddington, complete with free soft drinks, coffee and every flavour of tea you could imagine, as well as biscuits, crisps and nuts. A very fancy way to start a train journey – and as a regular user of the railways, far more pleasant than the typical crush at London’s packed stations.
With plenty of time before setting off, passengers are able to board the train – which looks like it belongs in a storybook from the outside – to get settled and comfortable in their ‘cabins’. We were shown our room and introduced to June, who would be looking after us throughout our journey.
I was imagining a cramped and uncomfortable night ahead – and could not have been more wrong. Yes, the cabins weren’t the most spacious either of us had seen but every inch of space was brilliantly used and it came with some cosy, and very unexpected extras. I’d packed extra warm PJs and bed socks for what I, foolishly as it turns out, assumed would be a chilly travelling experience.
Each of the rooms can come with two bunks, with the top bunk only pulled down if two of you are travelling in the same cabin, and each of these comes with a fluffy duvet, two pillows and one of the most comfortable mattresses I’ve ever slept on. A spacious shelf lifts up and is transformed into a sink – very useful for brushing your teeth and washing your face in the privacy of your own room.
The fun extras don’t stop there either. The buffet car, which is filled with soft seats, spacious tables and lounging areas, provides tea, coffee, hot chocolate and snacks for free for those travelling. If you’d like something a little stronger, you do have to pay, but sitting drinking a glass of wine in a comfy seat in a nice bar before tucking in for the night as the countryside whizzes past you in the dark felt very luxurious.
Just before we headed to bed, the lovely June came to take our breakfast orders, which are delivered to your room on a tray 30 minutes before you arrive at your destination. Choices include a sausage roll, tea or coffee and orange jounce – the perfect way to start your day trip to Cornwall. The final piece of business you need to take care of is whether or not you’d like to book a shower in the equally lovely lounge at Penzance the following morning – a god send for an early morning arrival.
I had one of the best night’s sleep I’ve ever had, rocked gently by the train (I definitely didn’t need my fleece-lined nightwear) and was woken to a delicious breakfast brought to my door before arriving in the crisp winter sunshine in Penzance. Staff in the lounge could not be more helpful and after a freshen up and another cup of tea, we headed out on our Cornish adventure.
Penzance was bathed in sunshine and there wasn’t a cloud in the sky, so after a potter round the independent shops in the town centre, we settled into the Honey Pot cafe for an early brunch – the poached eggs and sourdough were to die for. Next, we headed for a stroll around the prom and made our way to Penzance’s famous seawater lido. Sadly, only open on limited days for sea water swimming, this would be a real treat in the summer months.
After breathing in some of that fresh sea air, we hopped on a bus to the stunning harbour village of Mousehole. This stunning little place looks like it could be fresh out of a fairytale. The village hugs the stunning harbour and there are cosy pubs and cafes galore. An explore and wander around the harbour, before settling to sit and stare at the sea with a coffee and we’d totally forgotten the grey, wet and windy last few weeks in London.
The Old Coastguard hotel on the outskirts of Mousehole was our final stop before heading back into Penzance. The beer garden has to be one of the best in the country, if not the world. Even a January day could stop us from sitting outside, on the cliff top, and watching the sun go down over the stunning sea.
Back on the bus to Penzance, we stopped for a quick bit before getting back on the train at 9.45pm and settling down for our return journey back to London. Arriving at Paddington at 5am, and being brought another breakfast in bed, this definitely was a day trip with a difference and one I’d do again in a heartbeat – only next time I won’t take my fluffy PJs.
Book it
Tickets for a single occupancy cabin start at £45, on top of your rail ticket price, £34 for double occupancy, on top of your rail ticket and airline seats come at no extra cost. For more information, visit the Great Western Railway website.