Mum of two Hannah Britt reveals why Portugal’s vibrant capital city is a hotspot for all ages
There really is something for all the family in Lisbon. From mouthwatering custard tarts to stunning sunset views, it’s easy to find things to do, eat and see. And for the time poor, and those with kids in school and thus limited days to travel, I’m here to tell you that Lisbon can truly be explored in a weekend. Your 48 hours in Lisbon start now…
Where to stay
The want-for-nothing palace
Thanks to The White Lotus, the Four Seasons hotel group has been the name on everyone’s lips lately. And the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon – an inner-city five star delight – shows their prowess extends beyond the tropics of Thailand. Set in the north of central Lisbon, from the moment you arrive in the grand atrium, welcomed by expertly trained staff who already know your names, guests of all ages are treated exceptionally. Rooms are spotless and stylish, with expensive sheets and marbled bathrooms. Baby tubs, washcloths and child-friendly products were provided for bath time; and cots and day beds for bedtime. Fruit, pastel de natas (Portuguese custard tarts hailing from Lisbon), port and juice greeted us on entrance. Rooms on higher floors of the hotel have rooftop views, which make a lovely accompaniment to a cold glass of fizz of an evening.
When hungry, a Michelin-star restaurant – CURA – beckons. But it was the Ritz Bar and its understated yet delicious food that charmed our young family, with tasty treats like burgers and poke bowls on offer, and a super laid back atmosphere to boot.
For the weary, after a day of exploring there’s a fabulous spa with a carefully curated treatment menu. And for the sporty – or for those of us with energetic little ones – there’s a rooftop running track and gym. Because who doesn’t want to enjoy their 5k with a side salad of sunset city views? After a few spins I fear no run will ever live up to it. Family friendly luxury at its finest.
*Rooms start from around £800 per night
The wine lovers boutique paradise
Wine lovers listen up! The Palácio Ludovice Wine Experience Hotel has been designed to provide design-led, luxury accommodation… with wine tasting on tap!
Wine tasting is offered and encouraged, with hundreds of reds, whites, rosés, naturals, organics… you name it. Children are welcome to the tastings too. As you would imagine, the wine list at the hotel’s incredible restaurant, Federico, is encyclopedic, with plenty of food matches courtesy of the eatery’s sommeliers. The cocktails are fabulous too.
Set slap bang in the middle of Lisbon, Palácio Ludovice is the ideal base for exploring. It’s an easy walk from Castle San Jorge and the main shopping streets. Right outside the door is a beautiful viewpoint and next to it is the famous Gloria tram stop to take you down the hill on one of the city’s famous yellow funiculars.
Rooms are spacious, new-feeling in a good way, and full of gorgeous little gems like oval baths and brushed brass taps. The blue tiled walls (because it wouldn’t be Lisbon without some good tiles, right?) looked like something Instagram would be proud of.
There’s a relaxed, home-from-home, vibe at the hotel. Service is familiar and unfussy, yet slick when required. Children are welcomed wholeheartedly, and sofa beds, cots, and tasty menus (sadly sans wine pairing) are readily available.
*Rooms start from around £260, which includes breakfast
Where to eat
The mouthwatering market
No trip to Lisbon would be complete without an afternoon spent stuffing one’s face at the Time Out Market Lisboa. A cavernous warehouse space edged in eateries, and with a middle lined with long tables, there’s something for everyone to enjoy whether slightly peckish or absolutely ravenous. Oh, and there’s a bar too. A great spot for kids, lots of the food establishments have example plates laid out which provide a visual of what’s on offer. All tastes are catered for, with croquettes, octopus salads, pizzas, charcuterie platters and much much more. Set just back from the Tagus River, a little way along from Praça do Comércio, the main square of the city, the Time Out Market is super centrally located, making it a convenient (and moreish) pitstop no matter what your plans for the day are.
The relaxing rooftop
A family friendly rooftop restaurant? Yes, really. Run, don’t walk, to the Lumi Rooftop, a hidden gem atop the Lumiares Hotel in Barrio Alto, central Lisbon. Situated right next to Palácio Ludovice, a lift whisks you to the fifth floor where you’ll find a strip of tables and chairs nestled amid the terracotta roof tiles. Like a bunch of sleepy lizards we basked in the warm afternoon sun while enjoying a lunch of small sharing plates, with spicy prawns, octopus, cheeses and breads. A kids menu with classics like spaghetti bolognese kept our five year old happy. And the ultra relaxed vibe of the place kept her parents happy as she tucked in.
What to do
The under-the-sea aquarium
Consistently voted one of the best aquariums in the world, Oceanário de Lisboa is a must for both those with kids and those without. The number one attraction in Lisbon, it’s a great day out. Buggy friendly and accessible for wheelchairs, it sits a short drive, tram or bus away from the centre to the east, in the Parque das Nações. An enormous central tank is the star of the show, featuring sharks, rays, a wonderful sunfish and many many more. Around it are loads more tanks and viewing areas with plenty of seats, floor areas for little ones to sit and enjoy. I found it an easy place to breastfeed too as it was nice and dark. It kept both the five year old and 11 month old entertained for hours – a huge parenting win.
The castle on the hill
For its views of the city alone, Lisbon’s Castle San Jorge is well worth a visit. The walk to it is gorgeous too, up a hill through pretty winding streets. It’s a lovely place to wile away an hour or so, wandering around the walls. There’s a pack of peacocks that roam the castle grounds, too, floating around with their feathers on display.
Tickets cost €15 per adult. We chose a Lisboa Card however, which costs from €31 and includes travel around the city and entrance to many of the city’s attractions – including the castle. If you plan on hitting a few sights, it’s well worth it.
*For more information and tips, see Visit Lisboa