Yes Bergen is the gateway to the Norwegian fjords, but it’s also so much more – a pint sized city brimming with stuff to do for all ages, says mum of two Hannah Britt
I’m a mum of two children aged five and one, and we love to travel together as a family. Recently, we had the absolute pleasure of visiting Bergen, a city on the southwestern coast of Norway, and I’m here to tell you why you should add it to your bucket list immediately.
IT’S PINT SIZED
Sometimes travelling as a family can be overwhelming, and this is especially true when you go to a large city with an endless list of things to do. So I was pleasantly surprised by how petite Bergen was. Getting from the airport to the centre couldn’t be easier by tram – it goes door to door, end of line to end of line. Once in Bergen itself, everything is walkable and accessible, even with a pram. Being able to wander to dinner, to the aquarium, to the funicular, to everything, made navigating the city easy and stress-free for the whole family.
HELLO UNESCO
The medieval Hanseatic wharf in Bergen, named Bryggen, which is located on the eastern side of the Vågen harbour, has been a place of trade for a thousand years and is now a UNESCO world heritage site. The buildings themselves, with wooden slatted facades, pointed rooves and higgledy piggledy alleyways to explore are a complete joy. You’ll find shops aplenty too. Among the tourist traps there are some real gems – a thrift shop groaning under vintage paintings and candlesticks, independent art stores, and even a Christmas shop if you’re feeling festive. When little ones are weary of your retail therapy, one of Bergen’s best bakeries – Baker Brun – lies to the front, with tasty pastries to munch and al fresco seating on which to enjoy them.
FABULOUS FJORDS
Bergen is often referred to as “the gateway to the fjords” – and for good reason. It’s situated on the water, with smaller fjords like the narrow Mostraumen straits reachable within an hour, and larger fjords, like The Sognefjord, Norway’s longest and deepest fjord, not much further away. As we have small children, we opted for a 3.5 hour fjord cruise from Bergen to the Mostraumen straits, which cost around £62 each. Considering it was fairly short, we were really impressed – quite quickly we were sailing among gorgeous scenery, there was plenty of space for the children to relax on board, and we were allowed out on deck often to soak in the fresh air.
*Fjord Cruise to Mostraumen operated by Rødne: Adult: 850NOK, Child (up to 16 years): 440NOK. Children under 4 are free
FIND THE TROLLS
There’s a saying in Norway that if you see a plume of smoke rise from the mountainsides, it’s a troll cooking his dinner. And you can get up close and personal with some of Bergen’s most loved (wooden) residents atop Mount Floyen, in the troll forest. A short ride on the funicular carries you from the city centre to peace and quiet on the mountain, although there’s a bustling viewpoint, playground, cafe, bar and restaurant too if tranquility is not what you’re after. My little ones loved the adventure woodland playground, and a short walk took us to a lake where we sat to have a picnic and pick wild blueberries. Hikers will be pleased to know they can walk up the mountain, and indeed at the top are paths aplenty allowing explorers to walk for miles if they wish.
*Fløibanen Funicular (return tickets): Summer prices 1 April 2025 – 30 September: Adults: NOK 190 and children 4-15 years NOK 95; Winter prices 1 October – 31 December: Adult: NOK 140, Child 4-15 years: NOK 70
HOME-FROM-HOME HOTEL
For our visit to Bergen we stayed in Hotel Norge by Scandic, and it’s no exaggeration to say it was one of the most aesthetically pleasing hotels I’ve ever been in. The decor was so well thought out, from the quirky welly display behind the check-in desk, to the wooden panelling in the spacious bedrooms. Many rooms have a view and a balcony overlooking a little lake below and the surrounding mountains, and it’s worth being on a higher floor to make the most of this.
Breakfast is sublime – and in fact wins awards! – with so much choice from smoked salmon and pickles to omelettes, pastries and fruit. The coffee wasn’t bad either! Dinner at the ground floor Cafe Norge was delicious too – hello lobster spaghetti – and managed to be upmarket and boujee, but welcoming to children at the same time.
From the thoughtful and friendly staff, to the general beauty of the whole space, we thoroughly enjoyed every second spent in Hotel Norge and would recommend it to family travellers in a heartbeat.
*Rooms at Hotel Norge start from around £181
SUBLIME SEAFOOD
As Bergen is bang on the water, the seafood is as good as you’d hope it to be. And the best place to try it is in Mathallen, an indoor food market stuffed to the brim with delicacies. You’ll find prawns, crabs, fresh fish, sushi mussels and more – as well as cheese and charcuterie. There are two restaurants to enjoy too, both with a view out onto the harbour: Fjellskål and Fish Me. Both have menus for children with colouring pencils and paper.
OTHER DELICIOUS DINNERS
- Bryggen Tracteursted, Enhjørningen and Bryggeloftet are nice options if you want a more historic ambience. The first two are located inside the UNESCO World Heritage area Bryggen.
- For a very relaxed vibe, Pygmalion focuses on ecological food, and Pingvinen serves the kind of food you would get at your grandmother’s house.
- If the weather is nice, check out the rooftop at Sundt department store – they do a lovely relaxed BBQ.
- Just as we did, for an easy lunch, you can go to either Baker Brun or Godt Brød. Both are bakeries with several outlets that serve sandwiches and other gorgeous baked things.
- A wander down Skostredet is a must, and very popular, with several restaurants serving more international food (tapas, Italian, French).
- And for ice cream, Hallaisen is unbeatable. I’ll be dreaming of their pistachio flavour forevermore.
FINALLY, THERE ARE OTTERS!
…In the aquarium. Which is as perfectly pint sized as the city of Bergen itself. Yet despite its diminutive size there is still plenty to see. There are two gorgeous otters, as well as sea lions, penguins, a plethora of fish and jellyfish, and snakes, crocs, lizards and lots more. Both my children absolutely loved it, and I enjoyed how un-busy it was, meaning the whole thing was a relaxing and enriching experience.
*Bergen Aquarium is open all year round: Adult 370NOK, Child (3-15y) 235NOK