Sasha Morris reveals a lesser-known, better way to enjoy the wonderful Amalfi Coast that is free from the intense throngs of crowds that the region has become famous for
Italy’s Amalfi Coast is the stuff of travel dreams – sun-drenched villages perched on cliffs, winding coastal roads and sumptuous seafood fresh from the Tyrrhenian Sea, part of the Mediterranean.
When most people think of this wider region, the Sorrentine Peninsula, Positano, Capri and Amalfi immediately come to mind. And rightly so – because they are beautiful. But they can also be expensive and, in peak season, extremely crowded.
But for travellers seeking the same southern Italian charm, minus the price tag and packed streets, there’s a better-kept secret – the city of Salerno and its nearby villages. This Campanian delight offers everything from glorious coastal views and ancient ruins to fine local cuisine and peaceful beaches, all noticeably less costly than its neighbours to the west for food, drink and accommodation.
Salerno often gets overlooked by those racing towards the more famous Amalfi Coast destinations, but this vibrant port city could be just as good a gateway to the area as Sorrento. It’s also arguably where you’ll find a much more grounded and authentic version of southern Italy.
The historic centre of Salerno is showstopping at every corner. Winding alleyways, medieval churches and enticing trattorias fill the maze-like streets, making you feel like you’re walking through the real Italy. Strolling through the character-filled Via dei Mercanti, you’ll pass locals shopping and sipping espresso on shaded corners, making you feel like you’ve taken a step back in time.
The Duomo di Salerno cathedral is a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, and the Castello perched on a hill above the city offers a fine backdrop. A visit there rewards you with sweeping views of the coast and cityscape – it is visible from almost every point in Salerno, so the view is unparalleled.
Transport is another area where Salerno shines. It’s connected by high-speed train to Naples and Rome and, from its port, you can catch ferries to Amalfi, Positano and Capri. That means you can enjoy the Amalfi Coast without having to stay in the middle of the madness.
It has never been easier to travel there either, with British Airways Euroflyer now travelling from Gatwick to Salerno three times a week from £60 one way and offering flight and car package deals.
Exploring further, the ancient Greek city of Paestum, 24 miles south of Salerno, is the perfect alternative to the hot and heaving Pompeii. Three massive Doric temples dominate the site, and each is still remarkably intact. Unlike Pompeii, Paestum is often quiet, even in summer, but offers a spellbinding look into the ancient city’s history.
You can explore the site in peace, and the fascinating adjoining Paestum Archaeological Museum displays the famous Tomb of the Diver – which dates from around 500 to 475 BC– one of the few examples of Greek painting to survive from antiquity ( parchipaestumvelia.cultura.gov.it/en/ ).
Paestum is surrounded by serene farmland and pine forests, offering a striking contrast to the rugged cliffs of the Amalfi Coast. It’s a fantastic spot for travellers looking to unwind in the countryside without losing proximity to the sea.
The beaches near Paestum are sandy and sprawling, with crystal-clear waters and only a smattering of umbrellas. One particular highlight in the area is the San Salvatore 1988 Organic Farm, with its own vineyard, buffalo farm and restaurant. The fresh bufala mozzarella was divine and my group even got to watch a “nonna” make pasta from scratch, which was a fascinating experience.
You’ll need a base in the Salerno area, and the Savoy Hotel & Spa in Paestum provides opulence with a quiet atmosphere, offering the perfect escape with the backdrop of an infinity pool and the surrounding hills. It even boasts its own beach club, perfect for a sunset aperitivo before you try the homegrown delicacies at its Michelin-star restaurant Tre Olivi.
For those who may find even Salerno a little too busy, the area also boasts a number of beautiful villages well worth visiting including Trentinara, nestled in the hills, and Castellabate, which has the double bonus of a gorgeous view out to sea from the hills and a charming marina at nearby San Marco di Castellabate.
The lovely fortress of Castello di Rocca Cilento was also a highlight, with more gorgeous views over the sea and great location for a pitstop with a delicious lunch within the castle walls. Having been to Sorrento a number of times, I have always been charmed by its old town, upscale hotels and delicious food, but Salerno is definitely an Amalfi Coast alternative worth exploring. A rich history, sweeping countryside and affordable prices – what’s not to love?
Book the holiday
- British Airways Holidays offers seven nights on B&B at the Savoy Hotel & Spa, in Paestum, near Salerno, from £1,159pp. Fly from Gatwick on selected dates in September with 23kg baggage, book by August 8. britishairways.com/holidays
- More info at italia.it