TARTU
Estonia’s second city is known as the country’s centre of learning, thanks to its university dating back to the 17th century, scientific community, start-up businesses and 20 museums.
Before it was crowned Europe’s Capital of Culture of 2024, Tartu had been known as the river city, and there’s no better way to take in the views than on a sight-seeing trip along the River Emajogi on the archaic wooden The Jommu Barge.
As you glide, you’ll pass every kind of curiosity from the cottonwood trees and pilliroog plants, and the odd floating sauna, while Snail Tower furls above the city’s skyline.
Back on land, be sure to visit Aparaaditehas Creative City, an old factory complex turned creative hotspot, now home to artists, designers and entrepreneurs. Browse the small shops and galleries and take in a concert or workshop.
The city’s cobbled streets, meanwhile, weave past preserved medieval buildings, creating an ambience to transport visitors to a bygone era. Street art strikes at the heart here – a vast mural on the side of the university, depicting 19th-century streets, provides an awesome juxtaposition to modern times.
Elsewhere a stencil artwork opposite the Supreme Court of Estonia, Cannabeard and Witch Hunter, by street artist Edward von Longus, depicts a beloved children’s storybook character Mossbeard, his beard now replaced with cannabis plants, a condemnation on the war on drugs.
Meanwhile, Toome Hill Park fuses the city’s love of culture and history, with a mix of sculptures, ancient ruins and striking graffiti-style art.
The Estonian National Museum is a huge glass monolithic wedge-shaped building in a former military- restricted zone – its roof lifting towards “infinite space”. Seek out the Echo of the Urals exhibition taking you on a journey through a dark labyrinth with hi-tech neon displays and life-size models.
Meanwhile, Encounters explores the everyday lives of Estonians in history up to the modern era. Among the treasure trove of peculiarities, all encased in large glass orbs, is a battered old chair of one of the Estonian Skype inventors. Beneath ground level is an impressive exhibit full of old-fashioned cars.
Book in at Pompei restaurant in the Old Town. Go for the set menu of 10 mouth-watering dishes, which include flavoursome beef tartare and tiramisu topped with caviar. For a feast for the eyes, visit Tartu’s Fii with its modern colourful interior design. Try the perfectly cooked flamed cod, fish roe and beurre blanc.
The V Spa & Conference Hotel is conveniently located on the corner of Aleksandri and Soola streets and is a show-stopper with gold chandeliers and eye-catching designs.
Its giant spa with 11 pools, one outdoor rooftop pool, another with a glass roof, colour-changing lighting and fountains, hot tubs, a salt sauna and salt pool give it a real wow factor.
Tallinn
Beautifully preserved medieval charm blended with futuristic flair give Tallinn its unique vibrancy. Baroque palaces, Gothic spires, Soviet-era buildings and contemporary masterpieces set across lively neighbourhoods bursting with cafe culture, trendy waterfronts and magnificent museums, make city-breaking a whirlwind in this compact capital.
An outstanding example of a beautifully preserved medieval European trading city, Tallinn’s Old Town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. Dating back to the 13th century, the wealthy merchants who lived there left their mark on the city with opulent public buildings and churches.
Start by journeying through centuries on a walking tour around its cobbled streets set between defensive ramparts. You’ll pass Kissing Hill, or Viru Gate Park, featuring two famous stone sculptures of a young couple locking lips, and through alleyways opening into large courtyards lined with pastel-painted Hanseatic merchant houses.
The walls offer an amazing view of the Old Town and its famous landmarks including Toompea Castle. Among the medieval treasures, seek out Fat Margaret, which is the self-depreciating name for the wide stone tower now part of the Estonian Maritime Museum. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, a richly decorated Russian Orthodox church, is another must-see in the city.
One of Tallinn’s most upmarket coastal districts, Kadriorg, boasts seven museums and streets lined with summer mansions and wooden houses dating back to its heyday as a seaside destination.
At the heart of Kadriorg is Estonia’s baroque palace and park ensemble, established 300 years ago by Russian Tsar Peter the Great. Kadriorg Palace in its brightly painted splendour, features a garden with fountains and houses the Estonian Art Museum’s collection.
Beside it sits the little house of Peter the Great – a small bungalow, with just a living room, dining room and bedroom – a curious oddity. While you’re there, visit Pirita which has a long sandy beach, a yacht harbour and is home to the Tallinn Botanic Gardens.
Then head west to Telliskivi Creative City, set in a former industrial complex. Housing galleries, shops, start-ups and restaurants, it is one of the capital’s most colourful places and a superb example of rejuvenation without gentrification.
Located at Seaplane Harbour is another part of the Estonian Maritime Museum, and is a full-scale interactive showcase of 200 exhibits including a submarine called Lembit and Estonia’s oldest ship, set within a seaplane hangar.
Just along from here is Noblessner Quarter, a former submarine shipyard turned trendy seaside area, where the old factory halls have been repurposed as apartments, shops and galleries. To round off a busy day, pop into the Pohjala Brewery for a tour and tastings of its porters, barrel-aged in oak barrels, served with a Texan barbecue.
Eat: Estonia’s culinary scene has blossomed over recent years with a mix of award-winning restaurants run by chefs taking advantage of local produce.
If you are conscious about the environment, book into Michelin green-starred Fotografiska restaurant, part of a photo gallery, which has a zero-waste policy and the plates are recycled and remade from broken plates. I enjoyed a refreshing livener, Green Beast, a mix of absinthe, cucumber and lime, while enjoying views across the Old Town, before sampling their “In Bloom” menu with a dish named tomato tea featuring a selection of ripened yellow tomatoes.
Set within a former Imperial residence overlooking Kadriorg Park, Michelin-recognised Mon Repos is another standout. Meat-lovers go wild for Pull Restaurant, in the Rotermann district, which serves up the most perfectly cooked aged beef ribeye.
Relax at Nordic Hotel Forum, a modern abode with beautiful squares at its feet and urban beekeeping on its rooftop. Chill in its leisure centre with indoor pool on the eighth floor offering views over the Old Town and the Rotermann Quarter, plus there’s retail therapy within minutes at the Viru and Foorum shopping centres.
Book the holiday
Finnair offers flights from Heathrow via Helsinki to Tallinn, Estonia, starting at £199 return; to Tartu starting at £241. Manchester and Edinburgh departures also available. finnair.com
Rooms at the Nordic Hotel Forum in Tallinn start at around £109 a night. nordichotels.eu/en
Rooms at the V Spa & Conference Hotel in Tartu start at around £164 a night. vspahotel.ee/en
More info at visitestonia.com/en