Despite being once blasted as one of the worst seaside towns in the entire UK, when Mirror reporter Julia Banim travelled to Morecambe in Lancashire two years ago, she found herself charmed by the locals
Getting labelled one of the worst seaside towns in the UK can’t have been easy for the locals, but when The Mirror visited Morecambe, Lancashire, two years ago, they had taken it in their stride, defending their beloved town fiercely.
Once one of the destinations of choice for holidaymakers in the UK looking to feel the sand beneath their toes and spend some time munching on fish and chips and staring at the waves, Morecambe is no longer the popular holiday spot it once was.
Cheap package holidays have drawn many Brits out of the UK for the summer holidays, and some of Morecambe’s once-biggest draws shuttered decades ago, leaving the town’s tourism for a long time a shadow of what it once was.
The Super Swimming Stadium used to attract tourists in droves, as the largest European outdoor pool, but when it closed down in 1975 due to structural issues, glitzy events like the Miss World Competition and international swimming competitions went with it.
Despite criticisms that Morecambe has faded from its glory days, locals did not hesitate to praise their home to The Mirror, taking great pride in the town’s resilient character, quirky architecture, and breathtaking views across the bay.
A new “ambitious” project is currently in the works that could see Morecambe returned to its rightful place among the UK’s top tourist destinations: the Eden Project Morecambe. Set to be built on the site of the former stadium, an environmental hub and visitor attraction many locals hope will breathe new life into the quaint seaside town.
Local cockles shop owner Ray Edmonson can still remember Morecambe in its heyday. Ray, the proprietor of the Rick Stein recommended Edmonson’s Fresh Fish, has seen many changes, both good and bad, during his 74 years in Morecambe.
As he dishes out my lunch – deliciously buttery potted shrimp and cockles – Ray, who is one of the last two fishermen in the town, said that the new project should do a lot of good for the local community. It’s a sentiment shared by many of his fellow business owners.
I catch up with Paulo Brucciani, owner of Brucciani’s a delightful family-run ice cream parlour, situated right next to the historic Winter Gardens.
For 130 years, the multi-award-winning Brucciani family have served scoops to everyone from Winston Churchill’s daughter to Bob Hope to King Charles III, and they’ve seen Morecambe flounder and rise again.
Looking forward to the future, Paulo would like Morecambe to be held in the same regard as Cornish resorts such as St. Ives, and believes they could do “rather well”.
Paulo remarked that the town has “really turned around” in recent years, thanks partly to the abundance of festivals, from music to kite flying to vintage. He regards the upcoming Eden Project as “the icing on the cake”.
He continued: “We feel that Morecambe has a second wind. We may not be a destination stay, but day-trippers come here now. We’re not Blackpool.
“By that, I mean it’s not all fun fairs and kiss-me-quick hats and slot machines. I like to think of it as a bit more sophisticated.”
Paulo grew up listening to tales of Morecambe’s golden era, but the public perception of the seaside town doesn’t always project such a glamorous image.
One “underwhelmed” Tripadvisor user travelling up from St. Austell in September 2022 blasted the town as “very kiss me quick and a bit scruffy” in their one-star review, adding that the place needed “a damn good clean.”
Another visitor claims they visited Morecambe back in 2021, but left after just 90 minutes, declaring it to be the “most run down, dirty, depressing seaside resort I have ever visited in my life.”
This “dirty” image certainly did not square with my impression of the seafront, and it’s clear there has been some progress in terms of cleaning up the beach.
Morecambe’s relaxed, friendly atmosphere has long appealed to Bernie, 50, who has lived in Morecambe and Lancaster all her life and “wouldn’t live anywhere else”.
Bernie, who has worked at the highly regarded Atkinson’s Fish & Chips for 20 years, admits the promenade was a bit “run down” when she was growing up, but has fond memories of heading up to the now knocked-down funfair as a teenager every Friday night.
When the funfair went, along with the famed swimming pool, she feels there wasn’t much left for kids to do, which could be off-putting for families. She’s hopeful that the Eden Project will help bring Morecambe “back onto the map”, bringing “thousands” in.
In recent times, Bernie has been impressed by all that’s been done to clean up the beach and promenade, which she describes as “absolutely gorgeous”.
Bernie is particularly happy with the difference residents have seen since Morecambe’s sea defences were put up in 2018, which have put a stop to sand covering the streets. Dogs have recently been banned from two bathing beaches too.
In 2024, Morecambe’s bathing waters were classified as ‘good’ in Morecambe South by Defra, and ‘sufficient’ in Morecambe North as per Lancaster City Council, and there are plans to boost this score up to ‘Excellent’.
Beachgoers need to be careful when visiting Morecambe Bay, due to its notoriously fast tides and quicksand. As per advice given by The Beach Guide, visitors shouldn’t stray too far out into the bay and should be mindful that there is no lifeguard cover.
There are, however, some beautiful beaches to enjoy along the promenade area – both Morecambe North and Morecambe South scooped up awards in 2022, 2023, and 2024 for being ‘clean and safe’ beaches at The Seaside Awards.
Bernie also went on to note that the Bay Gateway, the Heysham to M6 link road which was opened in 2016, has made it much easier for tourists to visit Morecambe, and means they no longer have to muddle their way through Lancaster.
While the Eden Project in Cornwall focuses on trees and plants, Morecambe’s will centre around marine life, and for Tony Vettese, there is no better place in the UK.
The owner of the iconic Morecambe store The Old Pier Bookshop keeps a pair of binoculars on his desk to observe the birds that swoop and soar over the bay, excitedly remarking that there is a grand total of 4.5 million birds in the bay.
Tony, who moved to Morecambe in 1961 when he was three years old, also enthuses over the glorious sunsets he gets to see from his enviably situated doorstep, illuminating the backdrop of the rugged hills of the Lake District.
Proud resident Tony told the Mirror: “In the last 15 years, Morecambe has been getting busier year on year. My business has improved, and I know other people’s businesses have as well.”
Reflecting on the impact the new Eden Project will have, he added: “We’ve been waiting for this a long time. […] It will change Morecambe completely. Not just a seasonal town but twelve months a year.”
Morecambe has the distinct feel of a town rediscovering its charms. In 2008, the striking art deco Midland Hotel once again resumed business, while in 2022, the iconic Winter Gardens reopened its doors to the public once more after more than 40 years.
It was expected the new Eden Project would have been partially opened in late 2025, as per the Lancaster Guardian, and the growing anticipation among business owners is palpable – however, Eden bosses said in 2024, it’s more likely to be 2027, or 2028 when doors finally open, so locals may have to wait a little longer to feel the benefits of the rejuvenation it could bring to their town.
There’s plenty of nostalgia here, as well as a real feel of a new chapter beginning in Morecambe’s long and distinctive history. It will be fascinating to see what the town will look like in ten years.
The Mirror has reached out to Morecambe Town Council for comment.