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Eye up Oviedo – Northern Spain offers cultural gems, tasty morsels and history in spades, says Tim Bond, who took a trip to one of the lusher, lesser visited parts of the country
Many Brits head to southern Spain for sun, sea and sangria, but take a trip to the cooler, greener north of the country and there’s a fabulous foodie getaway to discover a world away from Mediterranean hotspots.
Handsome, historic Oviedo – capital of the Principality of Asturias and the commercial, administrative heart of the wider region – was last year’s Spanish Capital of Gastronomy, which showcased the best of Asturian cuisine – rich meat, fresh seafood, creamy cheeses and refreshing cider.
WHAT TO EAT
- FABADA ASTURIANA: probably the best-known dish from the region – a rich, tasty bean stew made with white beans, chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage) and pork. Most locals will just ask for a “fabada”. Try it with a local cider.
- POTE ASTURIANO: this hearty and rustic dish comprises collard greens, potatoes, and “compango” (a mix of chorizo, blood sausage, and bacon).
- CACHOPO: this consists of two veal fillets stuffed with ham and cheese, then breaded and fried. It’s served with chips and garnished with pepper and mushrooms. Variations use fish, pork or chicken.
- SEAFOOD: Oviedo’s proximity to the Cantabrian Sea means a rich haul of fresh fish. Pixín (monkfish) a la sidra (cider) and pastel de cabracho (scorpionfish pie) are popular too.
NB: scorpionfish are unlikely to win a marine beauty contest any time soon.
- PASTEL DE CABRACHO: this scorpionfish pate/pudding is renowned in the region, traditionally served with crispy bread and mayo. A perfect appetiser with a glass of cider.
- CHEESE: another notable provincial product. Casín is best-known and has a protected designation of origin. It is made from full-fat, unpasteurised cows’ milk from specific breeds — Asturian Mountain, Asturian Valley, Friesian and any crosses between these.
Cabrales is an artisanal blue cheese made from pure, unpasteurised cow’s milk or a blend of goat/sheep milk for a stronger, spicier flavour.
- CARBAYONES: these traditional Asturian pastries have a thin, buttery puff-pastry base, a Marcona almond-rich filling and a crispy, glossy sugar and egg yolk glaze.
- CIDER (SIDRA): an integral part of Asturian culture, it’s traditionally poured from a height to aerate it, and you’ll find “sidrerías” (cider houses) throughout Oviedo and beyond.
WHERE TO EAT
- SIDRERÍA TIERRA ASTUR PARRILLA: grilled Asturian meats and fish to enjoy inside or on its “Cider Boulevard” terraces, served with a wide range of ciders and wines ( tierra-astur.com ).
- CASA AMPARO: a traditional restaurant serving outstanding fabada ( restaurantecasamparo.com ).
- SIDRERÍA RESTAURANTE HOTEL EL OVETENSE: a relaxed lunch spot serving excellent fried fish and garlic chicken ( hotelovetense.es ).
- KIBO BAR: cute café for breakfast or a sandwich and coffee next to the cathedral (kibo baroviedo. wixsite.com/kibo-
bar/en - CASA RAMÓN: traditional Asturias cuisine and a superb Spanish wine list, very busy on market days ( casaramonoviedo.com ).
- EL FARTUQUIN: hearty regional dishes in a wood and stone room. Gluten-free ( elfartuquin.es )
WHERE TO STAY
The modern Nuvó Hotel Oviedo is a four-star, accessible hotel with contemporary rooms in the historic heart of the city. Facilities include free wi-fi and a gym and spa and top-of-the range rooms have rooftop terraces with views.
WHAT TO SEE
The historic splendours of highly walkable Oviedo await… architecture, a leafy park and those traditional sidrerías to tempt visitors and, perhaps, to try the traditional pouring of a glass from head height.
Must sees include Oviedo Cathedral, Holy Chamber and Gothic tower. The cathedral was founded by King Fruela I of Asturias in 781 AD and is the most important landmark in the city.
Fontán Market is one of the best-preserved squares in the city and home to a busy local produce market. Its name comes from the natural spring fountain which formed a pool in the sunken ground.
History buffs will also enjoy the city’s pre-Romanesque architectural sites, which flourished in the Kingdom of Asturias when the Moors’ Caliphate of Cordoba had conquered the south of the Iberian peninsula.
The UNESCO-listed Naranco monuments are a short bus ride, and the centrepiece Santa María del Naranco church is thought to originally have been part of the palatial residential complex of the monarch who commissioned its construction, Ramiro I (842-850).
For the sweet-toothed, dive in to a sugary tour of the Old Town pastry shops in the historic centre. Elegant and famous Confiteria Rialto is a reliable choice.
More quirky, see the cute Mafalda Monument – a tribute to the
savvy protagonist of a 1960s-70s Argentine comic strip.
A DAY OUT
Vibrant port city Gijón is a 30-minute train ride from Oviedo, larger and well worth a visit.
The old town, Cimavilla, lies on an impressive peninsula with narrow, winding streets, historic buildings and the inevitable sidrerías, plus Cerro de Santa Catalina Park for city and coastal views. Baroque Palacio de Revillagigedo overlooks the marina in Plaza del Marqués and hosts modern art exhibitions, while main square Plaza Mayor is a focal point surrounded by neoclassical architecture.
If you fancy a dip, take your cossie and stroll to Playa de San Lorenzo, Gijón’s best-known and biggest beach. Much-photographed Cudillero is a fishing village 45 minutes by road from Oviedo and its colourful houses tumble down a hill to the harbour.
The locals’ curadillo is a healthy dogs’ treat made from dried fish spines, backbones and skin. For humans, it’s just a photo opp!
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