A beautiful lake in Europe is worth adding to your travel wishlist thanks to its crystal waters and gorgeous surroundings complete with storybook-worthy villages
“You’re not doing it right if you don’t fall off,” yells our wetsuit-clad instructor from across one of Austria’s clearest lakes. Still wary of tumbling headfirst off the paddleboard into the depths of Lake Fuschl, in SalzburgerLand, I edge one foot out first and try to straighten up jelly-like legs as the board bobs up and down on waves beneath.
Once upright and successfully pulling the paddle through the water, silence falls on the crystal-clear lake, giving way to moments of peace and stunning 360 degree views. A few hundred yards off land, we’re surrounded by cloudless, azure skies and turquoise water so pure we’re told you can drink it.
Only hours before our sun-soaked paddleboard lesson – plus a quick wild dip in the lake – we were hiking through mountains in bright white snow and stepping across tiny streams with makeshift walking poles.
As a nature lover who will always opt for the great outdoors over conventional city breaks, I jumped at the chance of a soul-cleansing trip to sample some of the 500 lakes, 6,200 miles of hiking trails and 4,350 miles of biking trails the region has to offer.
Each day we enjoyed a daily dose of fresh alpine air, relaxed back at the spa and filled up on hearty meals of fresh local meat, cheese and fish. We experienced scenic lakeside walks at Lakes Fuschl and Wolfgangsee, tried out the “new way of life” in Austria on rented e-bikes, and explored villages that could be straight out of a fairy tale.
But I also found an unexpected love for the city of Mozart – Salzburg – as we spent hours strolling through charming streets, embracing its rich history and pretty domed buildings.
Where to stay and what to see
Part of the Marriott chain, the warmth and character of Arabella Jagdhof Resort am Fuschlsee, a Tribute Portfolio Hotel, comes through its hunting-style decor, complete with antlers and fur.
My suite was so large, I opened two doors expecting to find the bedroom, only to discover a surprise walk-in wardrobe and large bathroom with his-and-hers sinks.
Each night after adventure-packed days in nature, I wound down at the hotel’s mood-lit pool and Jacuzzi. Worries melted away as I swam towards the rolling Austrian hills, visible through floor-to-ceiling windows. I decided, there and then, that spa hotels like this are an essential base for any Austrian holiday.
But the hotel’s position, nestled in a valley overlooking the mountains, is by far the highlight. I was blown away every time I sat on the terrace, tucking into chai puddings and smoked salmon from the extensive breakfast buffet. And only a short stride away from the hotel is the picturesque hiking trail around Lake Fuschl, which I would have made a morning-routine walk had we more time.
It’s worth taking a pit stop along the route at family-run bistro, Schloss Fuschl Fischerei, for delicious baps, or seasonal soup made from the lake’s very own catch of the day. “And if you’re too full, you can take the boat back across the lake,” laughs the fisherman’s wife.
Along with the boats, e-bikes are becoming an increasingly popular mode of transport to easily explore Austria’s hilly landscape. I’m new to them but as I try out a KTM e-ride from the hotel, I’m immediately converted. With an extra boost on every push, and peaceful cycle trails running from the hotel, I feel I could ride my way to our next stop of Salzburg 12 miles away.
As we arrive in our planned taxi, we quickly find there’s plenty to see and do in the city – likely too much to squeeze into one day. We managed to do a lot with a six-hour guided tour, strolling pristineand safe-feeling streets by foot. We also made the most of the free buses with a Salzburg Card, which gives access to public transport, discounts and entry to landmarks.
Among them is the impressive and unmissable Hellbrunn Palace, a short bus ride away from the centre. As we took a gentle audio-guided tour around the early baroque villa, I was truly left in awe.
The elaborate palace and its grounds were designed by Prince Archbishop Markus Sittikus to amuse, amaze and “trick” guests. But somehow, 400 years on, the world-famous landmark, with intricate details in every room and hydro-powered surprises, is still doing just that.
We spent a day venturing 19 miles east to Wolfgangsee, trying out Austria’s steepest cog railway – running up the Schafberg mountain since 1893.
Due to the weather, we could only go halfway but travelling up in the train’s bright crimson carriages proves a delightful time warp through snow-covered mountains. Priced at around £40, it’s a costly experience, but well worth it for the panoramic views alone.
We’re told the lakes are so clear here in Wolfgangsee they are used as “reference points” for all of Europe, and their Christmas markets are second to none – I immediately want to book trips for both peak summer to swim and December for festivities.
Where to eat
From elegant, award-winning restaurants to hidden wooden huts tucked away in the mountains, SalzburgerLand is certainly not in short supply of mouthwatering food in beautiful surroundings.
On one end of the spectrum, you have the traditional, hearty Austrian dishes that will fill your belly with warmth after a long day hiking. And on the other, superb tasting menus showcase the region’s freshly caught fish or melt-in-your-mouth game.
After a hike in Hintersee, we discovered a wooden hut called Gruberalm among the snow. There, we tucked into traditional Kasnocken, digging our forks into cheesy dumplings straight from a huge sharing pan, all washed down with homemade elderberry juice.
We also ate until we couldn’t eat any more in our very own intimate barbecue grill hut, rented for the evening in the garden of Hotel Jakob in quaint Fuschl.
Stepping over a peaceful stream to reach the snug pine cabin, we took our seats around the grill, basking in its warmth as we eyed up the plentiful stocks of meat, fish and sides to cook and devour as we pleased. Our cosy hut filled with the smell of charcoal steak and salmon as we told stories, took turns to cook and sipped endless wine in a circle around the fire. All topped off with a joyful double helping of apple strudel and a dollop of whipped cream.
As we made our way up to dinner on another evening, I saw the sun set over the rolling green fields of Thalgau and wondered how the day could get any better.
Then, imagine our delight at discovering our destination restaurant was secluded, located in the middle of a forest and at the foot of a hiking trail.
The charming, large wooden hut of Forsthaus Wartenfels appeared out of nowhere among a thicket of autumnal trees as hikers ventured down from their sunset walks. Inside, welcoming staff served up course after course of inspired, authentic dishes in an elegant setting, each more delicious than the next. Think flavoured butters, moreish sheep’s cheese starters, and tender veal on a bed of dumplings.
As we made our way back down from dinner, the clear night sky was peppered with bright stars. A full moon lit up silhouettes of the hills and I was reminded just how long Austria, with all its striking scenery, has been sitting on my bucket list. Luckily for me, SalzburgerLand, with all its spark and charm, was the perfect place to tick it off.
Book the holiday
Get there: British Airways flies from Gatwick to Salzburg starting at £56 one-way. Find out more at ba.com.
Stay there: Rooms at the Arabella Jagdhof Resort am Fuschlsee, a Tribute Portfolio Hotel in Fuschl, SalzburgerLand, start at around £213 B&B. Find out more at marriott.com.
Extras: Five Treasures ticket around £77 adult/£39 child (Schafbergbahn, Lake Wolfgang cruise, Monchberg Railway, Wasserspiegl, Monchsberg elevator). Find out more at 5schaetze.at.
You can also get further information at salzburgerland.com, wolfgangsee.at and fuschlsee.salzkammergut.at.