Hearing of Brits taking short breaks in the US is not that unusual – but a long weekend in Canada? Yet, flight times and costs are not so different and, for those with a sense of curiosity and adventure, Vancouver Island on the west coast is one destination not to be missed.
A short four-night five-day stay in British Columbia’s historic capital city Victoria is definitely doable, highly enjoyable and surprisingly affordable.
Victoria is beautiful, located on the southern tip of Vancouver Island between the Juan de Fuca and Haro Straits, and with its seascapes and pristine coastline it offers visitors plenty to see and do with fabulous places to eat and stay. Destination Greater Victoria, the official not-for-profit marketing group partnered with more than 900 local businesses, is helping drive sustainable growth in the area, and it highlights the city’s “unique” blend of old-world charm and new-world experiences.
It says visitors can look forward to a delightful, small and friendly city where they can enjoy heritage architecture, colourful gardens and a variety of activities such as whale watching, kayaking, hiking, cycling and golf. It is also known for its culinary excellence and award-winning beverages. Quite the line-up, then.
Victoria also boasts Canada’s mildest climate, year-round greenery and natural beauty and is recognised for its sustainability efforts with a Responsible Tourism Institute’s Biosphere certification.
Set beside the Salish Sea, Victoria lies on the ancestral lands of the Lekwungen-speaking Esquimalt and Songhees Nations. Deeply rooted in its indigenous culture, the area is also proud of its British and royal connections and Asian traditions, all elements reflected in the city’s architecture, galleries, cultural events, artworks and celebrations.
Indigenous people lived in the harbour area long before British colonists arrived in earnest in the 19th century, pushing the original residents out when they built a fort and other buildings. Today’s Victoria took its shape from the fur trading post of the Hudson Bay Company and the city would develop to protect British interests on Vancouver Island.
The harbour area is still significant to the indigenous people, now a place to see their artworks as part of the Placemaking Project aimed at connecting residents and visitors to the First Nations’ culture. New gates and umbrellas installed at the harbour feature images of whales, birds and sea creatures helping to keep the ancient stories.
Esquimalt Nation Hereditary Chief Ed Thomas greets visitors in Lekwungen, the traditional language in southeastern Vancouver Island, and shares stories of the whales and wolves central to his people’s story of origin.
The history of the indigenous people and the colonisation is also featured among a raft of exhibits and stories told at the Royal BC Museum. You could easily lose yourself for hours taking in the exhibits or an IMAX film. Near the museum is Thunderbird Park, home to colourful hand-carved indigenous totems (or story or knowledge poles).
For those seeking excitement, the Malahat SkyWalk attraction is a short bus ride from Victoria. It offers an accessible 650-yard tree walk through a forest leading to a spectacular spiral ramp that sedately takes walkers 105ft up to see breathtaking views. The more intrepid come back down via a spiral slide, which takes about 10 seconds.
For those seeking less adrenalin, the 100-year-old Butchart Gardens with its 55 acres of glorious floral displays, fountains and fairground carousel, makes for a pleasant afternoon.
Alternatively, you can hop on an electric bike, or ordinary bike, from Pedaler, for a tour – this proved to be a great way to take in the city and its peaceful suburbs.
The route took us via British Columbia’s Legislative Assembly, colourful Chinatown, Bastion Square, Craigdarroch Castle (built by a wealthy Scottish coal baron), dramatic Oak Bay and Ross Bay Cemetery, where squirrels played and lone deer, unfazed by humans whizzing by, nibbled at the grass.
Back in the city, its colonial past dominated the landscape with landmark buildings including the BC Parliament Building with its domed copper roof. The allure of gold also attracted Chinese migrants to the city who would later work on the Canadian Pacific Railway.
The city has the oldest Chinatown in Canada and is notable for its historic buildings, lanterns and animal statues. It also has the narrowest commercial street in North America, Fan Tan Alley, once a hub for gambling and opium, now a popular destination for tourists exploring its quirky shops and a popularbakery.
The city also offers a host of accommodation to meet all purses, from budget hotels, B&Bs and inns, to some of the most impressive luxury places to rest your head. No visit to Victoria is complete without a visit to the Fairmont Empress hotel, which has a selection of packages and promotions whether you are planning a quick weekend getaway or longer trip of a lifetime
The award-winning five-star property, known as Canada’s “Castle on the Coast”, sits beside the Inner Harbour. Dating back to 1908, the National Historic Site was named for Queen Victoria and is proud of its British connections and royal associations.
With 431 rooms and suites, it also includes a hotel-within-a-hotel – the Fairmont Gold experience, with its gorgeous rooms, fine dining and elegant terrace to sip cocktails or enjoy breakfast from its lavish buffet.
It has been serving traditional English afternoon tea for well over a century and the menus showcase lavender from the hotel rooftop garden, honey from its own hives and fresh, local produce and exquisitely decorated handmade chocolates.
Dainty finger sandwiches, freshly baked scones with strawberry jam and tempting pastries are served on exquisite china. Carefully selected loose-leaf teas are ethically sourced from leading suppliers and include an intriguing and popular brew coloured blue and aptly named Blue Suede Shoes.
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The hotel is just a stone’s throw from downtown Victoria with its many shops, bars, pubs, restaurants and cafes.
At the modern Inn at Laurel Point, my luxurious room was light and spacious with a large balcony boasting expansive harbour views, a sumptuous king-size bed and sofa area, as well as a palatial bathroom with a walk-in shower and a deep soak tub to die for.
The hotel also has the fabulous Aura Waterfront Restaurant + Patio where chefs combine regional, farm-direct ingredients and use herbs grown in the hotel garden. There is also a curated wine, craft beer and cocktail list to pair with the quality local ingredients.
Just around the corner, passing a young seal playing in the sea, was another treasure waiting to be discovered – Fisherman’s Wharf. Its a unique destination with its colourful floating buildings, kiosks and ice cream and seafood vendors and is where you can hop on one of the iconic yellow water taxis.
A hop over the water and it was a short walk to Phillips Brewing & Malting Co, a quirky and friendly micro-brewery to sample a heady selection of beers before heading off to Eva Schnitzel restaurant to tuck into a German-inspired supper.
So much variety and enjoyment in one city.
What a place!
Book the holiday
- WestJet offers flights to Victoria, British Columbia, Canada, from Heathrow starting at £555 return. westjet.com
- Rooms at the Fairmont Empress hotel in Victoria start at around £203 a night. fairmont.com
- Rooms at the Inn at Laurel Point in Victoria start at around £156 a night. laurelpoint.com
- More info at tourismvictoria.com