Looking out over the dramatic, snowcapped peaks of the French Alps and down to the chocolate-box chalets of Val d’Isere below, I am reminded of just how much I love being in the mountains in winter.
I am also, unfortunately, reminded that I am a terrible skier and, it having been 20 years since I was last strapped to a pair of planks, I now have to negotiate my way down this hill without ruining the rest of my day.
Yves, our patient instructor, assures me it’s just like riding a bike – and we’re off. Thank goodness for muscle memory. For the uninitiated, or like me, the once-every-couple-of-decades, a skiing trip can be a daunting prospect, and not just because it involves steep slopes.
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There’s a lot to organise, a lot to remember, a lot to pack, a lot of effort. But it’s worth it, even for those reluctant to get involved in adrenaline-fuelled activities, because there is nothing quite like those glorious views, that fresh mountain air and the food, all that wonderful food.
One way to take some of the stress out of the organisation is to consider an all-inclusive package. This year, following a €50 million (£41.8 million) refurbishment, all-inclusive experts Club Med have added their Val d’Isere resort to the company’s Exclusive Collection, making it the only resort of this type in the mountains.
Holidays are frequently sold on the promise of something unique, and here that might actually be the case. Club Med’s Exclusive Collection is a selection of the brand’s most exclusive resorts offering premium accommodation and great hospitality in a beautiful location. Packages include food, sports and activities and in this case ski and snowboard lessons for all the family and lift passes.
There is a kids’ club, family activities, evening entertainment and shows, an open bar and, the exclusive touch, Champagne on tap from 6pm.
The Val d’Isere resort’s stylish makeover has resulted in a modern but cosy chalet-chic vibe. With 216 rooms (all either deluxe or suites) it’s on the large side, but maintains an intimate, homely feel. And from the moment you are checked in it is clear a lot of work has gone into making sure your stay feels effortless.
The resort’s staff couldn’t have been more friendly and attentive, nothing was too much trouble and you certainly didn’t have to wait too long before your glass was refilled.
The resort’s revamp also includes a major focus on food. There are two restaurants, one a la carte and the other based on the concept of a modern food court. There are traditional Alpine dishes of course but also pizza and pasta, sushi and noodles. The offerings change daily, and while I would be more than happy to just eat piles of tartiflette every day, the variety was quite impressive. The breakfast offering will also more than set you up for the day.
Lunch, as anyone who has ever been up a mountain will know, is also a very important part of the day. While the sun shone we were treated to a barbecue on the terrace. Chefs served up freshly grilled steak and butter-soaked vegetables, there were oysters, cured meats and piles of cheese, all accompanied by a DJ and some excellent cocktails.
Pre-dinner drinks were also accompanied by an array of sweet and savoury snacks, freshly grilled scallops, fondue and more of that excellent cheese. With all the eating it’s a wonder anyone finds any time to ski.
But skiing is what most people come here for and Club Med also has ways of making this as effortless as possible.
The resort is ski-in/ski out and, should you need to hire equipment, it will be waiting for you in your locker. Those helpful staff are also on hand to make adjustments and offer advice. ESF instructor-led lessons and guides for all abilities are part of the package and an excellent way to get to know the vast network of lifts, gondolas and buses that crisscross the area.
One of the reason for Val d’Isere’s enduring popularity is the reliability of its snow. On a good year you can ski from November to May. If the weather fails you there are snow guns covering more than 40 miles of runs.
In the company of Yves and a small group of beginners I spent a morning pootling up and down a relatively gentle slope in the shadow of the immense Bellevarde run, which was being prepped for some World Cup action and looked frankly terrifying. I was just pleased to successfully navigate getting on and off the chairlift with my dignity intact and to only fall over once. I also reconfirmed that I will never master a graceful parallel turn and that’ll do me for another 20 years.
So what do those like me who are reluctant skiers do to entertain themselves? The resort has a beautiful Cinq Mondes spa, guests can book a package of treatments or just take the chance to have a massage or facial.
I started my stay with a 20 minute back massage that helped shed the weariness of the journey and had me hunting for a UK supplier of the gorgeous oils.
Guests can go for a swim in the indoor pool or relax in the sauna and then brave the outdoor hot tub. Sitting in bath-warm water while the snow falls around you is worth the freezing dash from the pool room door.
There’s also yoga. Club Med resorts offers workshops using the Heberson And The Vibhava Yoga Method, a concept developed by Heberson Oliveira who is now considered one of the most famous and renowned yoga masters in France.
There’s a particular focus on back pain, meditation, muscle strengthening and flexibility and sleeping at altitude. All of this is of course also brilliant for soothing the tired limbs of those who have been out on the slopes.
A free bus service runs from right outside the hotel door down into the pretty town centre where you’ll find beautiful stone buildings, shops, restaurants, bars and cafes and, if you’re after more sport, there’s an outdoor ice rink.
Much more my pace though was the snow shoeing. Banish all thoughts of strapping cumbersome tennis racket-like contraptions to your feet – things have moved on. The shoes are easy to get used to and make tackling otherwise tricky paths a breeze.
Our guide, Eric, was a joy to spend a few hours with. He shared his knowledge of the region, its history and wildlife and, most importantly, let us take the whole thing at a pace that was right for us. No rushing and plenty of time to take it all in.
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I may be terrible at skiing but I couldn’t love a mountain landscape more and this proved to be a glorious way to get out and take in those breathtaking views. Absolutely worth the effort.
Book the holiday
Club Med offers a seven night all-inclusive stay at Club Med Val d’Isère, French Alps from £3,661pp flights from Gatwick on February 2 and transfers. Comes with ski and lift pass, group ski lessons for five days, Kids Clubs, entertainment and Wi-Fi.
More info at france.fr/en
