It’s cheaper than Barcelona and Madrid, but with all of the history and charm of the more better known cities. Immensely walkable, and full of delicious food and drink – I would argue Seville is Spain’s best weekend city break.
There’s nothing quite like checking the weather app to see an unrelenting downpour back home as you bask in the sunshine, sipping a refreshing Tinto de Verano while waiting for your tapas.
Just 2 hours and 50 minutes from Gatwick, with return Easyjet flights for as little as £35 per person, Seville is compact and walkable, making this vibrant city the perfect choice for a short break. It’s noticeably cheaper than Barcelona and Madrid, a bit less busy, but just as full of historic charm, and on balance I’d go as far as to argue it’s Spain’s best weekend getaway. We set off early one Friday morning, having roped in the grandparents to babysit, and by 11am were wandering the atmospheric cobbled streets, picking out the perfect spot for our first meal.
Dine like a King
Keen to avoid tourist traps and discover authentic tapas, we joined the Seville Tapas, Taverns and History Tour by Devour Tours (£58 per person). This small-group tour took us to five historic tapas bars, where we sampled local dishes and drinks.
Guided by a knowledgeable university history Professor, we learned how to identify quality Iberian ham (look for the black label) and left with new favourites and a dining action plan for the rest of our trip.
Dance the night away
For a cultural experience, flamenco in Seville is a must. Forget cheesy holiday-resort performances, the birthplace of flamenco offers something completely different. We first attended a 60-minute show at Teatro Flamenco Sevilla (£21 per person), which more than impressed. But locals then recommended the more intimate experience of a Peña Flamenca – a flamenco club dedicated to preserving the tradition.
Following their advice, we queued outside Torres Macarena, on Calle Torrijjiano, before it opened (8pm Wednesday to Sunday) and as advised secured our seats by leaving a jacket over the back. With simple tapas and great local wine at a very affordable price, we enjoyed a raw, passionate flamenco performance, a world away from the tourist shows. The guitarists, dancers, singers and emotional audience – many of whom joined the performers on stage at times – created an unforgettable atmosphere.
Worth the early start
Seville’s architecture reflects its layered history, influenced by the Roman, Muslim, and Christian civilisations who have ruled over the centuries. For us, we knew that the Royal Alcazar of Seville, an 11th-century UNESCO World Heritage Site which doubled as the kingdom of Dorne in Game Of Thrones, was a must-visit.
To beat the infamously long lines, we splurged on the Alone in the Alcazar tour (£58 per person) on Takewalks.com, which is the only tour group allowed early entry. Walking through the palace’s empty rooms and peaceful gardens before the hordes arrived, we learned its rich history from an expert guide. Standing on the walls overlooking the sweeping gardens listening as the city awoke is a memory I’ll forever cherish.
Don’t Miss
While the vibrant nightlife of flamenco, tapas and drink will keep you full and happy of an evening, there is plenty to do on a sunny Seville day. One highlight is the ultramodern Setas de Sevilla, the mushroom, an ultramodern wooden sculpture with panoramic city views. A daytime visit for £13 a person includes free access to the sunset light show later.
If you have time, below this are Roman ruins uncovered during it’s construction, showing the city as it would have looked many centuries ago. Across the river, the ceramics district of Triana is a charming spot to browse colourful pottery shops before enjoying fresh seafood and plates heaving with mouth-watering tomatoes, potato salads, and delicious cheeses at the vibrant Triana Market.
Wandering back to the center of Seville, we visited the grand Plaza de España, located in Maria Luisa Park. Floating along it’s emerald green canal in a rowboat makes for the perfect photo – a must for the Instagram grid.
Splurge on a memorable hotel
With beautiful sunshine and a dry climate, we found it infinitely preferable to stick to exploring Seville on foot – not least because a quick Google maps comparison showed walking times to generally be far quicker than driving. To make the most of this we stayed in the heart of Seville, at the newly opened four-star Ocean Drive, from £85 a night.
This small but well planned hotel was the perfect bolthole, with our bedroom balcony offering jaw-dropping views of Las Setas and the stunning nighttime light show. Inside restful Mudéjar tiles and contemporary wooden decor created the perfect space to relax, while a co-working space was on offer for those fitting in a spot of work between the tapas. We very much enjoyed the a la carte breakfast, and left with stomachs filled with delicious delicacies, while the in-house restaurant also offers a full lunch and dinner menu.
Verdict
Seville offers an irresistible mix of culture, history, and gastronomy, making it the perfect destination to escape winter blues. Whether it’s the vibrant flamenco, delicious tapas, or breathtaking landmarks, this sunny city will leave you longing for a return visit.
