With an endless array of skincare products on the market nowadays, we asked the experts how to make sense of it all, and the three essentials you should never skip
Once upon a time, the skincare slogan was “cleanse, tone and moisturise”. Now, shoppers are faced with all manner of serums, essences, lotions, creams, mists and masks in the beauty aisles, making it confusing to know exactly what you really need to be using, and how.
And more isn’t always better. Overload your skin with too many products and you risk aggravating it instead of improving it, or even developing conditions such as perioral dermatitis. Plus, lengthy skincare routines can get expensive, time-consuming and even obsessive.
To help debunk the skincare shelves, we asked the experts for their skincare essentials and how to add in extras. Plus, we share some tried and tested recommendations from our team…
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The basics
Experts agree on the key skincare non-negotiables: cleanser, SPF during the day and a retinoid at night if you want to see real skin changes. “These pillars are essentials for a solid skincare routine,” says Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, NHS GP, cosmetic doctor and founder of The Aesthetics Doctor clinics.
Cleanser
“A good cleanser is a must to remove dirt, oil and impurities, ensuring a clean base for your routine,” says Dr Ahmed. Find one to suit your skin type and budget. Those with dry skin might like a cream or milky cleanser, while oilier complexions may prefer a gel or foaming formula.
Double cleansing isn’t always necessary. “I find it a bit overkill, especially if you have skin issues, as it could potentially upset its microbiome,” says dermatology nurse practitioner Emma Coleman, who founded and runs Emma Coleman Skin clinics.
When to use it: A splash of water may feel enough for your skin in the morning, but don’t skip a cleanser in the evening.
We love: Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, £11.50.
Sunscreen
“SPF is a non-negotiable step during the day to protect against UV damage and premature ageing, regardless of skin type,” says Dr Ahmed. Chemical sunscreens typically look and feel nicer on the skin, while those with sensitive skin should try mineral sunscreens.
When to use it: Every morning, all year round.
We love: La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Invisible Fluid SPF50+, was £20, now £16.
Retinoids
Often referred to by the umbrella term ‘retinol’, retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A, and boost cell turnover. They’re referred to as ‘the gold standard in anti-ageing’ – and for good reason. “Apart from if you’re very sensitive, retinol does something beneficial for every skin type, whether that’s helping with signs of ageing, breakouts, pigmentation or texture,” says Emma.
When to use it: At night, on clean skin. Start with a low concentration, like 1%, then build up, and introduce it gradually into your routine to allow your skin to adjust.
We love: Medik8 Crystal Retinal, from £45.
Extras
Eye cream
Add if… You have specific concerns about the eye area, whether that’s dark circles, puffiness or fine lines.
“They won’t work miracles, but most people can benefit from using an eye cream,” says Emma. “A retinol-based formula can help to tackle lines and wrinkles, and I also like ones that contain antioxidants such as vitamin C or flavonoids.”
When to use it: Morning and night, the next step after cleansing.
We love: REN Clean Skincare Radiance Brightening Dark Circle Eye Cream, was £49, now £39.20.
Essence
Add if… You have dehydrated skin and want an extra lightweight layer of hydration.
“Essences are lightweight fluids, inspired by Korean beauty, that can provide an extra layer of moisture and nourishment,” explains Dr Ahmed. “However, not everyone needs them.” An essence could potentially replace a serum.
When to use it: After cleansing and before moisturiser, before or in place of serum.
We love: Curél Hydrating Water Essence, £17.50.
Serum or moisturiser
Add if… Your skin needs more hydration than it’s getting from the basics.
You may find that your sunscreen and retinol products are moisturising enough, but if not, “a hydrating and repairing serum, such as one containing niacinamide or hyaluronic acid, helps to nourish and strengthen the skin barrier,” says Dr Ahmed.
When to use it: After cleansing and after applying active ingredients.
We love: The INKEY List Ectoin Hydro-Barrier Serum, £15.
Exfoliator
Add if… You have congestion, blackheads visible signs of ageing or pigmentation.
“Physical exfoliators (scrubs) slough off dead skin cells, while chemical exfoliators (acids) break down the bonds between skin cells, helping to lift them away,” Dr Ahmed says. “I believe everyone should exfoliate as we age, since our skin’s renewal cycle slows down. It’s important to be gentle with exfoliation.”
When to use it: Once or twice a week in the evenings.
We love: Skin Rocks The Gentle Acid, £49.
Face masks
Add this if… You want a quick boost of hydration or glow, or a moment of self-care.
Face masks come in many forms nowadays: cream, charcoal, sheet, peel-off… “While they can provide temporary results, I’m sceptical about their lasting impact,” says Dr Ahmed. “That said, if you enjoy using them, there’s no harm in incorporating them into your routine. Masks contain exfoliating acids can offer more noticeable results.”
When to use: Once or twice a week, or before a special occasion
We love: Garnier Hyaluronic Cryo Jelly Anti-Fatigue Sheet Mask, £4.99.
