M&S’ Christmas food collection has officially launched, with one dish by Tom Kerridge priced at £110. But is it worth the money?

M&S’s Christmas food collection has officially launched, with one dish by Tom Kerridge priced at £110. But is it worth the money?(Image: Ellen Jenne)

I must confess, I’m already feeling a bit overwhelmed by Christmas. The festive season hasn’t officially kicked off and I’ve already had my fill of Christmas food for the next few years.

In 68 days, the big day will finally be here, bringing with it a deluge of festive treats, showstoppers and trimmings all at once. My latest Christmas adventure was a behind-the-scenes peek at Marks & Spencer’s offerings.

Unlike previous showcases, M&S treated us to a more intimate event with a sit-down banquet-style three-course meal… with a surprise appearance from chef Tom Kerridge.

There have been murmurs and complaints about the prices of some of M&S’ Christmas Food to Order collection, including the hefty price tag of the Collection Fillet of British Beef Wellington by Tom, which comes in at a staggering £195, reports the Express. I can almost hear the gasps of shock.

Instead, we were served the Collection British Turkey & Stuffing Wellington by Tom, which is priced at a slightly more palatable £110. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I would ever tuck into something so expensive for Christmas. Even turkey crowns can make a significant dent in your wallet.

Imagine it as a Christmas dinner encased in puff pastry. A slice of the Wellington features slow-cooked turkey breast wrapped around pork, apple, chestnut and cranberry stuffing, topped with pulled turkey thigh and flaky pastry sprinkled with pork crackling.

Accompanying it were the Hot Maple Glazed Turkey Crown, Wagyu Dripping Roast Potatoes, the Best Ever Double Wrapped Pigs in Blankets (£14.50 or £16.50 depending on the Pork Garnish Selection), and Collection Brussels Sprout and Leek Gratin (£10), with a Turkey & Thyme Gravy, and Collection Cranberry & Port Sauce (£2.50). Try repeating that five times quickly.

I was prepared to dislike it. I was ready to complain and declare the Turkey Wellington wasn’t up to scratch. I wanted to challenge M&S’s pricing team and label it as grossly overrated. But I couldn’t.

The Collection British Turkey & Stuffing Wellington by Tom is the star attraction this Christmas. Turkey can be a contentious bird, particularly when it’s not cooked correctly, resulting in a dry and tasteless dish.

Tom’s inventive spin on the Christmas main course is a wonder to behold. The turkey was succulent and melted in your mouth, while the pork crackling puff pastry crumbled away delightfully.

However, for me, the standout of the dish was the pulled turkey thigh. Evoking memories of a hog roast, the shredded turkey introduced a rich flavour to the bird I’d never experienced before. The three words to sum up this feast: worth every penny.

I recognise the price is a point of dispute, especially given the current cost of living situation. If you have the funds, I’d urge you to give this a go. However, if you’re budget-conscious, I believe Tom should provide a tutorial for home cooks to recreate the dish at home, so everyone can savour a slice.

For me, the pigs in blankets were a bit of a let down, appearing too pale for my liking. I prefer them well-done or not at all.

The roast potatoes also left me feeling underwhelmed; they lacked a crispy exterior and fluffy interior. The Wagyu Beef Dripping (£4.50) didn’t pack as much flavour as I’d anticipated.

If Brussels sprouts are a contentious choice at your dinner table, I’d recommend opting for a gratin instead. The cheese flavour wasn’t overpowering, and the breadcrumbs added a nice crunch to the vegetables.

Panettone has been a popular choice this year, but M&S was the only supermarket that offered something slightly different. Personally, I could take it or leave it, but if you’re after a slice of panettone that isn’t too heavy, consider the Collection Lemon & Mascarpone Panettone Gateau (£25). It resembles more of a cake than a traditional panettone, and the tangy lemon cuts through the otherwise dense dessert.

While Tom’s Wellington was undoubtedly the star of the show, M&S’ party food, on-the-go collection, and sweet treats shouldn’t be overlooked. With hundreds of new and returning favourites hitting the shelves over the coming months, these are my top picks – and the ones I’m eager to try:

  • Surf & Turf Brioche Rolls (£6) – soft and buttery brioche with fresh lobster and prawn cocktail filling. Retro food but make it modern.
  • Gingerbread & White Chocolate Cookies (five for £3.25) – I missed these last year when they first went viral, but I finally understand what my teammate has been banging on about. A new iteration, the Peppermint Bark Cookies (five for £3.25) are perfect for chocolate lovers.
  • Chicken Kyiv Hot Melting Dip (£4) – I’m a sucker for a dip and this one brings all the familiar flavours of the popular dish with a rich and indulgent finish. Perfect for dipping crusty bread, crackers, anything really.
  • Fish & Chip Bites (£5.50) – great little snack for party food or a post-Christmas dinner picky tea.
  • Collection 8 Mini Turkey Feast Toasties (£7.50) – I didn’t get to try these on the night, but the gravy dipping sauce will be calling my name.

M&S has truly outdone itself once again. There’s something about M&S that encapsulates the magic of Christmas particularly well for adults like myself who’ve felt the festive sparkle fade over the years.

Every year I eagerly anticipate the Christmas offerings from supermarkets; to see who’s going to break the mould, who’s got the most thrilling and innovative food. Collaborating with Tom Kerridge is a brilliant strategy, and while he did recognise the criticism towards some of the products, I can empathise with his perspective.

Predictably, this isn’t just any Christmas, this is an M&S Christmas.

A range of food lines and products will be rolling out over the next few months, with some already available in stores now.

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