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Dartmoreish – enjoy a luxury break at a castle with history, says Ruth Mosalski, who visited Dartmoor’s five-star Bovey Castle, which was built in 1890, William Henry Smith – later of WH Smith of high-street stationery shop fame
There are times when there is nothing better for the soul than to just sit back and soak in what’s around you – and there are few finer places to slow down than in the grounds of Dartmoor’s five-star Bovey Castle.
As I sat sipping tea in the sunshine on our room’s balcony in the September warmth, perfectly manicured gardens stretched out in front of me, with the hills of Dartmoor framing a picture-perfect foreground. What a tonic. You’ve barely crossed on to Dartmoor National Park when you turn off the road into the winding drive that takes you to the main hotel building. That itself is vast, and something of a mix between Downton Abbey and a grand mansion house setting from an Agatha Christie novel.
The exterior has all the Gothic drama you’d expect from an early 20th-century building, but inside there are Art Deco touches that take you to a totally different time, showing just some of the incarnations this building has had. In 1890, William Henry Smith – later of WH Smith of high-street stationery shop fame – purchased 5,000 acres of land, and it was his son, Frederick, who went on to build the lavish neo-Elizabethan manor house for his family.
In the First World War, it was used as a convalescent home for army officers, before being sold in 1928 to the Great Western Railway who turned it into a golfing hotel. They bought it for £15,000, the equivalent to £772,000 in today’s money. In the Second World War, it again had uniformed guests, becoming a military hospital.
The golf course opened in 1930 and remains today after being updated in 1991 when the hotel changed owners. In 2004, Bovey Castle was given its five-star status – and lodges, a second restaurant, spa and pool were all added. A decade on, the Eden Hotel Collection purchased Bovey Castle and started a multi-million pound refurbishment.
We were greeted outside and our bags dealt with during a swift and friendly check-in. After being guided up the carved wooden stairs, my breath was honestly taken away when I saw the room– a huge four-poster bed on one side, with a large seating area of sofas and armchairs in front of the regal fireplace on the other.
The beautiful window area had a lovely seat section for admiring the view over Dartmoor. There was a separate dressing area, and bathroom too. The groundwork for what is billed as a “unique stay” is set by the spectacular building and the grounds, but the special things that come from a stay at Bovey Castle are the small, thoughtful touches.
There was the locally-sourced sloe gin and truffle popcorn in our room and the bouquet of flowers from the kitchen garden. There is a turndown service offered, and luxurious robes to use for the pool. The interior design adds to it too. While grand and clearly impressive, there are enough modern touches to compliment the ornate features, so you’re not overwhelmed or feel on edge, like you’re sitting in a museum.
There is a good-sized pool and spa, as well as a shop and an 18-hole championship golf course. That evening, we ate at one of the two restaurants, the Great Western Grill. Having popped in earlier in the afternoon for a drink but being outnumbered by golfers having a post-round pint I wondered if it would feel special enough for an evening meal – but I needn’t have worried.
The beautifully presented starters of oak smoked salmon and crab and asparagus were followed by a duck main and another of steak and chips. It was all very delicious and perfectly presented. When our chosen wine was out of stock, another was suggested and delivered quickly.
After dinner we retired to the piano room for a cocktail.
While the prices on the spirits and wine list definitely saw me raise my eyebrows, my White Lady was worth every penny, and even on a quiet night there was a lovely atmosphere with music playing in the background to provide the perfect end to a brilliant afternoon. Breakfast is served in the second restaurant in the building, Smith’s Brasserie.
The fine-dining venue is transformed to host a comprehensive buffet with orders for hot food taken separately. A nice touch was being able to order what in our house is referred to as a “proper” coffee, not just cafetiere or a self-service machine. Despite the rain having arrived with gusto, we took a walk around the grounds, visiting the kitchen garden, the fishing lake and the grounds, which are just as impressive as the bricks and mortar.
There are so many things to do on site, including 4×4 riding, clay pigeon shooting, gin-making and even a beekeeping course. We both thought more time was needed there to fully soak up the venue but our short stop into the lap of luxury had been incredible.
And anyone worried luxury comes at the expense of the environment can console themselves that the hotel has been rewarded for its green credentials.
Bovey Castle is a luxury venue but still has an impressive offering for children. Despite having a night away from ours, I noted a kids’ afternoon tea menu and for those who would rather enjoy kid-free time, special hours where they are allowed in the pool (but plenty where they’re not). There were highchairs in the dining rooms too.
I cannot recommend Bovey Castle enough. A combination of natural and man-made beauty, as well as friendly staff, good food, and excellent facilities mean this should absolutely be on your travel bucket list. It’ll definitely stay
on mine.
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