‘I visited a remote bit of Greece tourists from one country absolutely love’

Exclusive:

Richard Garnett enjoys a blend of luxury and adventure in the shadow of magnificent mountainsides at the Aristi Mountain Resort & Villas, close to the Albanian border in Greece

A holiday to Greece often means a trip to one of the many beautiful islands, but if it’s true adventure and breathtaking scenery that you crave, there is a new contender. Close to the Albanian border, the northern Greek mountains are not the easiest place to get to but they are worth the effort.

After a two-and-a-half hour transfer from Preveza airport, I reached Aristi, a mountainous village with views that appeared to be straight out of the Lord of the Rings. Aristi is one of 42 villages that make up the area of Zagori, which wraps itself around one of planet Earth’s truly great sights, the quite incredible Vikos Gorge.

Currently 80% of the area’s tourism comes from Israel, but after the area was granted World Heritage Status by UNESCO in 2023, interest has started to build from Europe and beyond.

Style

I stayed at the four-star Aristi Mountain Resort & Villas, which combines the luxury of a boutique spa resort with the authenticity of typical Greek hospitality. There are 26 rooms set across eight buildings spread around the resort, most with fabulous views of the mountains.

The north-east orientation ensures that the sun greets guests every morning and provides the most pleasant conditions to enjoy breakfast on a terrace that shows off the best of the scenery. There are also villas, styled with wood, stone, soft lighting and bright soft furnishings, with separate bedrooms and living room areas with huge fireplaces.

Soft pillows ensure a good night’s sleep, which is needed in order to recharge after the range of adventurous activities on offer.

Food and drink

Dining at the resort’s award-winning Salvia restaurant is a must.

Named after the indigenous herb known for its medicinal and aromatic properties in the Zagori area, dishes are created using the freshest of ingredients, many of which are grown in the resort’s own greenhouses and gardens, just a stone’s throw from the restaurant itself.

Highlights include beetroot salad, trahana pasta, slow-cooked lamb, trout and giouvetsi – a delicious veal stew made with orzo rice. Local wines hit the spot but you can’t come here without trying locally produced grappa Tsipouro Makri – pretty much the best way to start any meal.

Breakfast on the terrace might just be the highlight of the day, though. The dining area’s orientation sees it flooded with sunlight in the morning, with fresh continental and British-style options on offer. There is no better place to sip that first coffee of the day before setting out on a new adventure.

Fancy something different? A 20-minute drive up the hill will bring you to Kanella & Garyfallo, a restaurant with a menu entirely dedicated to mushrooms… including the desserts!

The spa

Guests can take advantage of a gorgeous spa with heated indoor pool, sauna, steam room and whirlpool bath before unwinding further with one of the relaxing massage or facial treatments on offer. If you prefer, chill out on a sun bed by the chic outdoor pool, or try an al fresco massage with views of the mountains as a backdrop for ultimate feelgood vibes.

I indulged in a 60-minute outdoor oil massage that left me feeling completely relaxed. Other options include ­reflexology, Aristi body scrub, back and neck aroma massage and a trio of facial treatments. If you’re planning to do long walks while you’re here, reflexology afterwards could be a winner.

What to do

Zagori is a hiker’s paradise with more than 60 miles of trails of varying difficulty to tackle. Its villages are linked by winding mountain roads and traditional stonebridges. The aesthetic is maintained by a law which insists that all buildings must be constructed with the local rock – limestone.

Staff at Aristi Mountain Resort & Villas can take a lot of the leg work out of the planning for you by organising a walking trip. Options include Vikos Gorge to Drakolimni, hiking in the Voidomatis Gorge and on the paths and stone bridges of Zagori.

During my trip I visited several of the stone bridges on the route and a number of charming villages, but there can be no doubt about what really stole the show. Our highly knowledgeable guide, Spyridoula, took us on a daring mission to the top of the Vikos Gorge and the vantage point was ­spectacular – it is not something I am ever likely to forget.

The Gorge is equally impressive from the bottom right at the other end. If it’s dramatic scenery you are after, you must visit both ends. The Guinness Book of Records has recognised it as the deepest gorge in the world with walls that reach as high as 4,429ft.

An “easy” hike will take around two-and-a-half hours to complete, while at the other end of the ­spectrum, seasoned ramblers can expect to tackle the area’s more challenging hikes in around eight hours. Quite a shift!

A day out

If hiking sounds like too much hard work try a spot of rafting on Voidomatis river. Starting at Aristi Bridge, the 90-minute journey takes you down a low-difficulty route that puts you right at the centre of a hidden paradise with crystal clear waters and unspoilt beauty in every direction.

Alternative activities include photography tours, ­birdwatching, horse riding, fly fishing and hang gliding.

Book the holiday

• Seasonal flights to Aktion airport near Preveza (transfers around 2hrs) are available from airports across the UK; year-round to Thessaloniki (around 4hrs).
• Rooms at Aristi Mountain Resort & Villas start at £140 a night B&B. aristi.eu/en
• More info at visitgreece.gr