Vietnam is regularly voted one of the best countries to visit in the world but when I visited I unearthed a whole new side to it – and it was incredible
Looking out of my car window I see sandy coves drift past below towering cliffs. To my left are endless rolling mountains filled with lush jungle.
I’m winding my way around central Vietnam’s Hai Van Pass – described by former Top Gear man Jeremy Clarkson as one of the world’s most beautiful coastal roads. My destination isn’t a cheap no-frills hostel, the kind used by millions of backpackers who descend on Vietnam each year.
Instead, I’m staying in two five-star sister resorts – Angsana Lang Co and Banyan Tree Lang Co – on the outskirts of a small fishing village 55 minutes from Da Nang airport. I turn off a road on the edge of Lang Co village and drive past endless paddy fields, where water buffalo happily graze.
My first hotel – Angsana – comes into view. Smiling staff greet me with some welcoming cold flannels. I’m led to my one-bedroom courtyard suite and immediately take a dip in my private pool to wash away the jet lag.
I dry off on the sunbed and wonder what this already-impressive region has in store for me during my stay.
Just a short stroll from my room sits a golden two-mile private beach with no soul in sight. But the thought of walking its length doesn’t entice me after my 18-hour journey, so I instead hop on a quad bike that’s on offer.
I hurtle across the sand with gentle waves to my left and wild jungle to my right, before taking a turn that transports me straight into a scene from Jurassic Park. Insects and birds chirp all around as I navigate the well-marked path through the wilderness.
By the time I’m back at the resort, my adrenaline’s pumping and I’m in need of a pick-me-up. I slurp down some Vietnamese coffee, which is refreshingly iced and served with sweet condensed milk, and I’m raring to go again…
An hour from the Lang Co resort lies Hue, the former capital of Vietnam. My tour guide takes me to the impressive walled Imperial City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Built in 1804, it boasts palaces that housed the rulers of the last royal dynasty. I walk over a lily-covered moat and through the guard gate that towers ahead.
The palace is adorned with dragons externally, but the interior is even more spectacular. Gold-leafed walls and pillars surround a glistening gold throne where the monarch used to sit.
This grandeur is juxtaposed with bullet holes that are still visible on the city’s walls – a tragic reminder of the site’s significance in the Vietnam War’s bloodiest battle.
Another conflict Hue residents have overcome is occupation by the French, which ended in 1954. And this clash of cultures is reflected by the region’s delicious diverse food scene. I head to a traditional Hue restaurant called Les Jardins De La Carambole, which translates as ‘the starfruit gardens’ in French.
But instead of the escargots and entrecote you’d expect to guzzle down in Paris, Bun Bo Hue is on the menu. The spicy beef noodle soup is served with Hue-style crispy pancakes known as Banh Khoai.
There’s also a tingly green mango salad, as well as grilled beef in banana leaves. It’s undoubtedly one of my favourite meals of the entire trip. Heading out of the Imperial city, belly full, I reach the final pitstop on my Hue tour – Dong Ba market.
Inside is a sprawling network of street vendors willing to sell you anything and everything – from replica Ralph Lauren shirts to traditional food. It’s customary to haggle within markets in Vietnam, so I give myself a pep talk and pretend I’m on an episode of The Apprentice.
I feel like Alan Sugar is ready to become my business partner when I haggle 1,000 Vietnamese dong off the price of some coffee.
Then my tour guide brings me swiftly back to reality. When I brag to him about the deal I made, he tells me (through laughter) that I’ve only knocked off 20p. Soon it’s time to check into my next hotel – Banyan Tree Lang Co.
It’s just a short boat ride from Angsana along a 950-metre-long canal. As I step off, a golf buggy is waiting to drive me to my beachfront private villa. It comes complete with a picture-perfect private pool and Jacuzzi overlooking the beach.
I happen to be visiting during the Season of the Lotus and a whole host of activities celebrating Vietnam’s national flower await me.
Treats include a two-and-a-half hour wonderful Lotus spa experience, finished off with an aromatic lotus bath to revitalise my skin after hours under the glare of the scorching sun. I then enjoy lotus afternoon tea, served by waiters in traditional Vietnamese garments pouring out mugs of fresh herbal brews.
I sit with lanterns hanging above my head, observing the pretty lotus flowers blooming above the water in front of me.
When the time comes to eat there’s just enough space left in my belly for a meal at the Saffron Thai restaurant, offering wonderful panoramic views over the bay. The spot has been awarded a Thai Select signature status (the cuisine’s equivalent of a Michelin star) and after gorging on my lobster curry I can see exactly why.
My day of relaxation feels perfect – but I’m soon itching to get back out there and explore what’s on my doorstep. Roughly 90 minutes away to the south of the Lang Co properties sits one of Vietnam’s most popular tourist destinations – Hoi An.
Its ancient town, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, dates back to the 15th century. As I walk down its streets I pass wooden fronted Chinese shophouses, French colonial buildings and traditional Vietnamese houses.
But before I fully immerse myself in the region, I decide, perhaps rather bizarrely, to head to Hoi An’s leading bespoke tailors Yaly Couture. Hoi An has built a reputation as Vietnam’s clothes capital thanks to dozens of tailors offering jaw-droppingly cheap rates on anything from custom suits to dresses.
And Yaly is one of the most renowned, having tailored outfits for the likes of Mick Jagger and the president of Singapore. After picking from the exhaustive list of materials and colours, I opt for a two-piece cashmere suit.
Back at home, buying a tailored suit as good as this could easily cost north of £1,000. But my jaw drops when I go to pay and an unbelievable “£180” comes up on the screen. I’m seriously glad that I don’t have to do any haggling this time.
Shopping session completed, it’s time to sample some of the country’s world-famous Banh-Mi. A remnant of the country’s colonial past, it’s a French-style crispy baguette with a combination of delicious fillings.
I race to authentic local deli Madam Khanh to try it for myself before closing time – and luckily manage to nab the last one. In the queue behind me, the news filters down that I’ve sold out the shop and I’m greeted by jealous and slightly angry faces.
One bite of the veggie-filled sandwich reveals why – it is absolutely delicious. The Vietnamese Bamboo Circus is the perfect place to digest as I watch some wonderfully ripped men and women tell the story of central Vietnam through death-defying stunts – all using just bamboo. By the time I leave the theatre, the sun has set and the ancient town has come alive.
An iconic sight greets me at the river – hundreds of paper flower lanterns bobbing on the surface of the water. I hop onto one of the basket boats boat to release one myself.
You’re meant to make a wish as you let your light drift away into the night.
Wish you were here? What are you waiting for? Just go and book a Vietnam break you will never forget.
Book it
Travelbag offers seven nights on B&B at the Banyan Tree Lang Co resort in Vietnam from £1,699pp including flights from Heathrow and private transfers. travelbag.co.uk
Rooms at the Banyan Tree Lang Co resort start at £337 a night B&B.
Rooms at the Angsana Lang Co resort start at £118 a night B&B.
MORE INFO – vietnam.travel
