To escape the November chill of the UK, I travelled to sunny Vilamoura in Portugal – and at a balmy 22 degrees upon my arrival, it was soon clear I’d made the right decision.
Part of the Algarve’s ‘Golden Triangle’, stylish Vilamoura is famed for its lush green gold courses and elegant marina filled with luxury yachts – but you don’t have to be a celebrity to enjoy its various delights. Indeed, as I was about to discover, some of the coastal resort’s most alluring attractions won’t cost you a penny. And you can absolutely tick off plenty of must-sees in a day.
Following a three-hour flight from Liverpool, it took me around 24 minutes to get from Faro Aiport to the Quarteira region, a pretty seaside area that merges with upmarket Vilamoura.
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From there, I headed over to Praia da Falésia, which was this year crowned the best beach in the world by TripAdvisor. Now, as much as I enjoyed the culinary wonders of this true foodie haven, the most incredible part of my trip had to be my sunset visit to Falésia. And nothing can quite prepare you for how spectacular it actually is.
All red and orange hues amid the gold, Praia da Falésia is otherworldly in its rugged beauty, particularly at this late hour when the cliffs almost seemed to glow in the setting sun, lighting up the ocean with firey flecks of amber. If you’re the sort of adventurous beachgoer who prefers exploring to kicking back with a paperback, then this will absolutely be up your street.
Praia da Falésia is a surfer’s paradise at any time of year – with some seasoned surfers believing winter to be the best time to visit. Meanwhile, just over my head, paragliders soared off the rosy cliffs, landing gently on the powdery sand below. Equally, if, like me, you simply want to walk along the turquoise waters and take it all in, then the serenity here is unmatched. I had to tear myself away.
Of course, gorgeous sunset walks need plenty of fuel, and on that front, visitors really are in luck. Here, locals swear by the fresh fish restaurants that overlook the front, and there’s even a famous fresh fish market for foodies spending a little more time in the area. With places to be, however, cooking was not on the cards.
First, breakfast. You absolutely cannot visit the Algarve without trying traditional Portuguese food, but as many British travellers have discovered, it’s nice to know there are reliable comforts within walking distance, particularly if you’ve enjoyed a big jug of Sangria the night before.
On this note, I’d recommend the Rafael Restaurante Bar for those who fancy eating a full-cooked breakfast by a serene pool ahead of a busy day of adventures. Although it wasn’t quite hot enough for me to whip out my bikini for some sunbathing, I was quite comfortable sitting out reading beneath a palm tree with a cup of coffee. Happy days.
By night, Rafael, headed by Chef Luis Rafael, serves high-quality cuisine, wine, and cocktails. However, by day, it has a more casual feel. I was able to get a slap-up brekkie with a latte and orange just for a very reasonable $12 (£9.55). The restaurant offers impeccable service and a relaxed, family-friendly atmosphere.
Of course, with all the delicious food this region has to offer, it’s a good job there are plenty of serene places to walk. The immaculate promenade runs along the length of golden Praia de Quarteira, which at this time of the year has plenty of space to wander and dip your toes in the waves. It was also absolutely warm enough to pop a beach towel down and gaze up at the endless blue; however, I had a little more exploring to do.
Quarteira has a buzz even in the winter season, with plenty of locals and tourists alike out for a stroll. I almost forgot what month I was in until I ran into an adorable festive grotto with Rudolph’s nose gleaming in the sunshine. If you have time and a little extra cash, make sure to take a boat trip out to the famous Benagil Caves, which start from around £17.
For a late lunch, I was recommended Tico Tico, a local-approved restaurant that serves a range of mouthwatering fish and meat dishes. Situated perfectly overlooking the ocean, I felt in absolute heaven as I tucked into a hearty bowl of seafood pasta – one of the restaurant’s specialities. An absolutely enormous portion with a rich, tomatoey sauce; I didn’t think I’d be able to finish. I wolfed it down.
While enjoying the very mildest of sea breezes, I washed down my meal with a glass of vibrant, and extremely drinkable, red Beyra. Altogether, my boozy late lunch cost me $23.50 (£18.72) – an absolute steal when bearing in mind the quality, gorgeous location, and exceptionally warm service.
However, a word of warning to fellow Brits unused to travelling to Portugal outside of the bustling summer season. Restaurant hours may differ, and some may not even open at all, so make sure to do your research to avoid disappointment. I ate just before 3 pm, and an eager couple who arrived shortly after me were unfortunately turned away until the evening.
Vilamoura is known for its prominent and recently expanded marina—the biggest in the world and well worth a visit.
Unfortunately, there wasn’t quite enough in my bank account for a superyacht, but there was enough for a delicious $3.34 (£2.79) ice cream cone from Gran Sorvette—a super sweet ice cream place overlooking the marina that is open for business even out of season.
I heartily recommend the banoffee, which I enjoyed while strolling around the marina, people-watching and taking in the sights and sounds of the fashionable harbour, where wealthy types gather for evening cocktails. For those of us who want a bit of style on a budget, Rumaria Marina de Vilamoura, with its €8.50 (£7.09) glasses of organic Lisbon wine, makes for the perfect evening treat.
The sun sets at around 6 pm here in winter – a real joy for Brits currently leaving work in the pitch dark. One visibly shocked waiter told me, “This is why you shouldn’t live in places like that” when I informed him of our own grim 4pm sunset. I would absolutely suggest finishing off your day by seeing the marina the way it should be seen – by boat.
The marina looks even more striking at night, with the lights bouncing off the water and easy dinnertime chatter in the air. I will say, there was a little bit of wind as the evening wore on, so do make sure to pack a light jacket along with your sun cream. Think pleasant, not boiling.
Although January tends to be the coldest month in this region, as per Thomas Cook, there’s still plenty of warmth to be had, with temperatures reaching highs of up to 16°C. The resort also enjoys nine hours of sunshine per day – enough of a glow to banish any gloomy January blues. By February, this average rises once more to 17 °C. An ideal beach trip for any Valentine’s proposals perhaps?
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