My trip to Thailand 15 years ago with a mate is still a cherished memory.
We cycled around rice paddies outside Bangkok, took cooking classes, visited night markets and temples, admired golden buddhas, watched breathtaking sunsets, and snorkelled in the crystal clear waters around Koh Phangan – all unforgettable experiences. And let’s not forget the food!
I wondered if a return trip to the Land of Smiles, courtesy of the recently reinstated British Airways direct route from Gatwick to Bangkok, could match those fond memories?
Koh Samui
Koh Samui, the larger sister island to Koh Phangan, was my first stop on this return journey. It’s a favourite among travellers and with the third season of The White Lotus partially filmed at the Four Seasons Hotel on the island, its popularity is set to soar, reports the Express.
It’s easy to see why, with lush forested slopes descending to white sandy beaches and turquoise seas, where hotels are tucked away in private bays.
The Banyan Tree Samui resort’s whitewashed villas cascade down tropical jungle slopes to an infinity pool, offering stunning views over a private bay in Lamai.
Like all villas, mine had gates leading to a deck with loungers and seating. A grand entrance through an oversized wooden door leads into a living area with a sofa and bar, followed by the bedroom and bathroom with a huge bath – perfect for a long soak while gazing out of the floor-to-ceiling windows.
But the real showstopper… through the sliding doors in the bedroom, my very own private pool.
That evening, I arranged for a buggy to join my travel mates for a visit to the nearby Lamai village night market.
Lamai is Koh Samui’s most frequented beach area. The beach extends seemingly endlessly along the coastline, with rocky outcrops interrupting the view.
Beachside eateries like Cactus serve up classic Thai dishes such as prawn Pad Thai and fried giant fish.
Its night market is a big hit with both locals and tourists. With a Chang beer in hand, we browsed the food stalls and picked up gyoza dumplings, tempura prawns, potato spirals and gui chai spinach dumplings, which our guide, Nikkie, suggested, then sat at a picnic table and enjoyed our meal.
The Banyan Tree provides a range of water sports from the beach and the yoga classes were perfect for relaxing my muscles after a lengthy flight.
The spa boasts an incredible rainforest room where you can experience various hot and cold water therapies before unwinding on a heated lounger if the weather outside gets a bit tropical.
However, with the sun shining, we embarked on a 90-minute speedboat journey to the neighbouring island of Koh Tao for some snorkelling.
Colourful parrot fish nibbled on coral, giant wrasse cautiously peeked their heads out from under coral banks, while bright yellow and black striped angelfish swam around unfazed by us clumsy humans above them.
The following day we hopped on two wheels for an extensive cycle ride around a less travelled region of Koh Samui.
Our journey began at the Wat Phra Chedi Laem So, a quaint yet stunning golden temple on the south coast, before we ventured through the island’s oldest and last natural coconut grove along the coastline.
We took a pause at Thong Khurt pier, where our guide, Khun Bandit, enlightened us about the traditional long boats that have been used by the Thais for centuries to travel between islands and fish.
These vibrantly coloured crafts are still an option for travel from the mainland, which is just barely visible in the distance, to Koh Samui.
All this exploration calls for some nourishment, and back at the hotel, we treated ourselves to the chef’s table dining experience. Our private dining table was set up in the Edge restaurant, boasting views over the bay.
We were encouraged to assist in preparing the ingredients, so I put my chopping skills to use and cut up some vegetables and herbs for our starter of grilled beef tenderloin salad with toasted rice powder.
A fragrant tom yum soup and salmon wrapped in red noodles with a yellow coconut curry was prepared for us right at the table, all paired with wines from Monsoon Valley winery, located south of Bangkok.
It was a delightful and indulgent experience. All too soon, our stay in Koh Samui was drawing to a close, but not before one final plunge in my villa pool.
Then it was off to Bangkok.
Bangkok
Fifteen years ago, I lodged on the ever-popular Khaosan Road, known back then for its popularity among backpackers and for our accommodation, Buddy Lodge (which I’m told is still there and still well loved).
The bustling streets of Bangkok’s Chinatown, brimming with food vendors and bars playing music round the clock, did not disappoint my expectations for a vibrant atmosphere.
Yaowarat Road is flanked by food and drink stalls, with shops, restaurants and brightly lit signs creating a lively backdrop.
Our guide, Tim, was instrumental in helping us navigate the best stalls. We kicked off our culinary adventure with a bowl of crab with dragon noodles, a simple yet delicious dish.
Other mouth-watering delights included rice cakes with fried radish and cream-filled sweet bao buns. While I’ll always remember the Chinatown experience as vividly as Khaosan Road, I might choose to forget the deep-fried silkworms.
Nearby is Wallflowers, a charming cafe by day and bar by night. The former florist’s shop retains its theme with flowers cascading from old umbrellas on the ceiling and adorning the rustic tables and cocktails.
My toasted Negroni, infused with coffee beans and garnished with herbs, had an unusual taste that grew on me.
All this was just a stone’s throw away from our accommodation at the Shangri-La hotel, which overlooks the Chao Phraya river.
Although the decor could use some updating, my room was still very luxurious and comfortable. The main pool was perfect for a late afternoon swim followed by an Aperol Spritz sundowner.
Beyond the well-known tourist attractions like the Grand Palace and Wat Arun, there are some hidden treasures to be discovered.
Tucked away across the Chao Phraya River lies the quaint Kudi Chin district, a labyrinth of walkways among houses packed so tightly that not a single car can make its way through. This peaceful enclave is home to descendants of Portuguese traders.
As we meandered through the serene alleyways, we stumbled upon Auntie Amphans cosy kitchen, where she delights locals with her homemade sugary confections. Just around the bend, the Baan Kudichin Museum beckons history buffs into its charming old-world residence brimming with captivating artefacts and tales of this calm neighbourhood amidst the bustling cityscape.
For those seeking further solace, Poomjai Gardens awaits, a verdant oasis adorned with over a hundred lychee trees, alongside an array of stunning flora and the Natura cafe the perfect spot for a gourmet respite.
But before bidding farewell to this exotic place, one last twilight Hangovertini on the magnificent Sky Bar terrace at the Lebua hotel is a must – an unforgettable experience, high above Bangkoks glittering horizon.
It’s impossible not to utter a “wow” upon witnessing the breathtaking view that feels like you’re suspended in air, gazing down at the urban splendour below.
Thailand has outdone itself, proving to be just as enchanting, if not more so, than it was 15 years ago. I look forward to returning sooner rather than later.
Ready to embark on a Thai adventure?
British Airways Holidays offers a tempting package: two nights B&B at the Shangri-La Bangkok followed by a five-night stay at the Banyan Tree Samui resort, from £2,689pp. This includes flights from Gatwick, 23kg luggage allowance, and internal transit between Bangkok and Koh Samui all bookable with lightweight deposits from £60pp.
Why wait until 2025?
Book your Thailand holiday now.
For more information, visit fanclubthailand.co.uk.
Travel test – British Airways Club World Business flight from Gatwick to Bangkok, Thailand.
Once settled in my aisle seat, I was offered a glass of Our Cellar Selection, Brut NV, Champagne. Shortly after take-off, a three-course dinner was served, starting with prosciutto ham and marinated figs, followed by beef short rib with colcannon potatoes, paired with a glass of Yealands Pinot Noir.
Dessert was a delicious chocolate marble cake.
Wi-fi was available on the flight, but I chose to disconnect from social media and enjoy the movie Wicked Little Letters before getting some sleep.
Converting my seat into a flat bed required minimal effort, and the footrest folded easily. A fluffy pillow and blanket ensured a comfortable rest.
The White Company amenity bag contained an eye mask, earplugs and socks, which helped me sleep until breakfast was served.
The highlight of the flight was the creative Bridgerton-esque safety video. Drawing inspiration from British period dramas, literature and films, it provided passengers with standard flight instructions in a very entertaining way.
I suspect it captured the attention of many more passengers than usual.
