It may be considered one of the cheapest European places but upon landing in Portugal’s northernmost region, the feeling couldn’t have been more opposite. A mix of rich orange and red terracotta buildings and tuk tuks down windy cobbled streets, Porto’s first impressions were magnificent.
As the hours followed after flying in with Jet2 from Manchester, it was apparent that the striking atmosphere was there to stay. After all, parts of the city centre have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site so I wasn’t surprised. Only a two-hour flight from the UK I did question why it had never been further up my bucket list to visit, and as a first-timer in Portugal, I immediately knew it was going to become a favourite European spot.
A hearty gastronomy flushed down with Porto and wine, architectural beauty and buildings covered with unique retro tiles everywhere you look- even the local Starbucks dons a fitting blue and green tile so different from its usual look – It’s easy to question why this hasn’t become such a British flocked hotspot, but it may just be the main reason that makes Porto’s quirks even more special.
Best of Porto
Authentic, intimate, and tradition all poke through, whether it’s the old but loved buildings, generational family-run cafes, or the local food market that’s still bustling today despite being open since 1914 – Bolhão Market.
The Sao Bento train station and the Capela das Almas church are other must-see sights, both central and show off extra touches of azulejo tiles. Then you have parts of the old town – Centro Historico – where you could spend half a day walking to admire the rainbow-coloured buildings and choice of ceramics.
A recommended route is walking up from the Rua Nova Da Alfândega past the Palace and into the old town, continuing up through the narrow streets and making your way to the Sé district (near the Cathedral). This took us around half an hour, with a few souvenir stop-offs but if you fancy a pitstop for a meia de leite – a traditional coffee with milk always served in a glass – and a freshly made pastel de nata (custard tart) you can easily add a good hour on top.
There’s of course the franceshina too, it’s a local sandwich filled to the brim with layered bread, sliced meat, covered with a tomato and beer sauce. Translated into English the ‘little Frenchie’ is as rich as it sounds and dons nearly every cafe or restaurant menu – and all you’ll need is €6 in your pocket to attempt this culinary feast.
With an abundance of grab-and-go delicacies on every corner, Porto also has its fair share of fine dining spaces, where three hours can be set aside to soak up each course of intricately put-together history on a plate, which is what I felt as we sat down to eat at DOP. Dishes like sea bass and lobster in creamy rice, or a creamy carbonara with squid for its spaghetti, the city’s Atlantic place on the map really shone through.
Other things I’d recommend doing in the city are a TukTuk tour and taking a stroll around the TimeOut Market – a modern take on a market where Oysters and Champagne were flowing.
The tram runs along the riverfront, and people quite literally jump on and off at the many stops, and if it’s full it won’t be uncommon to spot someone hanging from the steps…yes, on the outside. While many use it to get from A to B, for tourists it’s perfect for jumping on and sitting back.
While on the tram the marvel of the Ponte Luis I Bridge will come into view, and in a familiar style to many as it was designed by a partner of the Eiffel Tower curator – it’s a world away from the terracotta buildings and ceramics.
Stepping into the Livraria Lello bookstore completely wipes the hustle and bustle out of sightseeing; cascading wooden staircase and floor-to-ceiling books accessorising its Neo-Gothic style. It’s become an attraction in its own right and people queue out of the door each morning with their pre-paid tickets to catch a glimpse at this striking space – discreetly nestled in a thin cobbled street building, the attraction only helps but point out the store that’s been opening its doors since 1906.
The bookshop sells books in almost every language; Portuguese, Spanish, Italian, German and English among the many, but it isn’t just your everyday paperbacks. Livraria Lello also offers the most beautiful versions of well-known titles, from “Alice in Wonderland” to “The Wizard of Oz”. They also sell their own special branded editions of classic novels, all in tiny hardback books with stunning covers and gold-edged pages.
Where to stay in Porto
To put this walking city to its paces, staying in the buzz of the city is ideal and The Editory Boulevard Aliados Hotel is in a prime spot. Walking into the Avenida do Aliados location you are immediately hit with the modern luxury.
The spacious rooms all have their own touches with different wallpapers and colours, and you can choose anything from a Cosy Room, a Suite with Aliados View, a Superior Room, and a double – a room triple the size I expected.
The Editory Boulevard Aliados shines a light on Porto’s culinary influence once again, its main dining area sits with an open kitchen so you can peep into the buzz of the kitchen each time you sit down to eat while being surrounded by the loud colours of the room – black and white tiled floor, pink wallpaper, gold mirrors, and even velvet leopard print wallpaper somehow this eclectic blend merges into a calming and welcoming space.
Not only was there everything you could need but I could have spent another half day just at the hotel to eat again at its Ilícito restaurant or relax by the modern roof-top style pool.
Across the river in Gaia
Across the Ponte Luis I Bridge is where Porto meets its nearest City, Gaia – an extension of the narrow streets and beautifully curated architecture. While it’s a completely different city I felt the most immersed in real life here, as residential homes and flats blend in along with the breathtaking city view looking into Porto Ribeira district.
A visit to WOW with its spectacular river spot offered a glimpse into the city’s Port heritage, hence the name. An afternoon spent learning about what goes into make the sweet fortified wine the region has become so well known for, along with a masterclass on the ‘peer, swirl and smell’ etiquette. Redeveloped port cellars for a trio of rich blends of sweet wine to taste and a nod to the culinary wonders on every corner – francesinha, bacalhau and hearty steaks.
Day trips to the Douro Valley and Guimaraes
The winding roads towards the Douro Valley vineyards are a must if you’re visiting Porto, even wine tastings and cellar tours don’t sway you its natural rolling hill beauty will. And you can enjoy it from the water as well – take a ride on a Rabelo boat, and see the rolling vineyards from a different point of view.
It’s a world away from the cramped cobbled streets of the city. We spent half a day at Quinta de Seixo, the home of Sandeman Port and a charming rustic restaurant overlooking the valley. Each time we visited a restaurant a different mix of fresh seafood and red meat was served in its own way, and under a Doura pergola, I tried my first taste of Morcela, a traditional blood sausage.
Closer to the grasp of Porto is Guimares, a small town which only takes about an hour to get to. The type of place where the mix of sightseeing is matched with the usual day-to-day washing load hanging out of the window, and generational family-run restaurants opening their doors without fail.
Also known as the ‘birthplace of Portugal’ the quirks of UNESCO World Heritage old town made perfect sense to me.It’s stripped back personality was charming and a reason I’d recommend anyone to go and see another side of Portuguese living, with a stop off at BUXA for lunch for tapas in the square.
Three nights in Porto highlighted the true diversity of the city, one which will put it on the list for city breakers, hikers looking for days out in the Douro valley, or those in search of a long weekend wining and dining. I wasn’t expecting how different each street corner would be, but it allows you to take budget holidaying to the extreme or put yourself up in a five star luxury hotel and still get the same from the city – and for this reason it’s already back on my list to visit again.
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