Staring out across a frozen lake in below-zero temperatures in deepest Canada, I really wished I was wearing more than a swimsuit.
My fingers already numb, I was so bitterly cold that I couldn’t think straight. The tour guide, a burly Bear Grylls survivalist type, smirked, smashed a hole in the ice with a hammer and pointed to the ladder. Having arrived at the positively charming and cosy Algonquin Log Cabin in Ontario, I had been lulled into a false sense of security by the friendly hosts and warming homemade sweet potato soup with beer bread. Now I faced a polar ice plunge.
Daring all guests to have a go, with a board chalked up with everyone’s record times, this felt like an initiation. It is said to have health benefits, like strengthening the immune system and improving cardiovascular health. At the very least, it’s a hotel wake-up call like no other.
Succumbing to peer pressure (is there any other kind?) I braced myself and stepped in, screeching “Oh my God, oh my God…” ad infinitum. Body in shock, the big chill began, triggering rapid loud breathing and slight panic. I dunked my head fully underwater – hey, when in Rome… In total, I lasted a full minute, then I stumbled out. Fortunately there’s a post-trauma sauna nearby. Did I feel rejuvenated? Relaxed? Possibly. Let’s just say the hot chocolate afterwards was much needed.
Voyageur Quest’s Algonquin Log Cabin is a rustic, home-from-home affair, with just a few bedrooms, living area with log fire and a kitchen where you can make yourself a coffee or pilfer homemade cake from the larder. The peaceful, remote, forest-set cabin is a place to unwind after outdoor activities like canoeing, camping, hiking and broomball (think Quidditch on ice). I had a go at snowshoeing, which at first feels like trying to walk with tennis rackets stuck to your feet, but is a brilliantly fun way to hike over deep snow.
In the evening, head torches in place, we trekked back to the frozen lake, this time wrapped up in warm layers, to stare at the stars. This place is a true escape from urban noise. But what they don’t shout about is the incredible food, from sticky date pudding, corn bread and dream bars (yes, dreamy) in the winter, to frittatas, trout and raspberry pie in the summer, not forgetting bruschetta served on a canoe paddle. It’s almost enough to make you forget that not long ago you were submerged in an icy hell. A truly cool stay.
A place to chill
Winter in Ontario is like something out of a movie scene. It wouldn’t be out of the ordinary to spot a moose skipping over a snowy field or a black bear scratching against a tree. So when I arrived at the incredible JW Marriott The Rosseau Muskoka Resort & Spa, in the heart of Ontario’s Muskoka Lakes area, the imposing building just adds to the sense of Hollywood grandeur.
The region is popular with celebrities too. Dubbed the Hamptons of the North, it’s the summer playground of stars like the Beckhams and Justin Bieber. Locals are proud to tell you that Tom Hanks, Goldie Hawn and Steven Spielberg own waterfront mansions. The stunning luxury hotel, with scenic views of Lake Rosseau, certainly manages to keep up with the Joneses.
It’s beloved as a summer resort, with boating, canoeing, kayaking, paddle boarding and water-skiing on offer, as well as outdoor pools and two sand beaches. But in the freezing winter, guests are not disappointed, with ice skating and snowshoeing on-site, as well as an in-house Icebar (made of 15,000lb of ice) to whet the appetite – or at least get you sloshed on vodka. I tried out Fat Biking (cycling with big fat tyres) and strangely enjoyed the epic workout.
As a reward, I was treated to a massage at the hotel’s HydroSpa, a calming retreat that boasts an oxygen bar, salt room and massage chairs, alongside the more usual hot tub and sauna. Once suitably serene, a myriad of hotel dining options include the Muskoka Chophouse and Italian bistro Teca, but I was invited to an Ice Cave. OK, not an actual ice cave, but the softly lit private “igloo” (a transparent dome) makes for a snug outdoor dining experience as chefs cook next to you on charcoal and cauldrons and waiters bring wine and blankets. Eskimos never had it this good.
Musher madness
Allowing yourself to be dragged at full-pelt through a snowy forest by a pack of howling dogs? Well that just seems barking mad. Allergic to dogs and a bit scared, I’m not the ideal candidate for a husky sledding adventure, but I was promised an, er, pawsitive experience on the tour. Twelve slightly mental mutts were tied up waiting for us, leaping over each other and growling and panting in excitement, desperate to get going.
With six of the dogs harnessed to our sled, two of us got on board, stomping down on the brake with both feet to stop it moving. Unfortunately we didn’t push hard enough and the dogs suddenly took off at top speed. Panicked, I jumped off the back, leaving my poor friend bouncing off alone into the distance until the guide, like an actual superhero, leapt on to the sled and brought them to a stop. So my advice is: stay on the sleigh, hang on tight and don’t abandon your co-pilot.
Take two was much less dramatic. And once the dogs got into their stride, they calmed down and it became a rather tranquil ride through a magical setting. A bonafide dog-sled driver now, known as a musher, I loosened my white-knuckle grip on the reins, realised the mutts were not that menacing after all, and started to actually enjoy myself. A real mush of adrenaline.
Cool revvings
Helmet on, clutching on to the jacket of the driver, I was on the back of a high-speed snowmobile, powering along a frosty trail in the woods. Revving the engine, with a glint in his eye, the sledder, as they are affectionately known, asked if I’d be up for going a bit faster. Hitting around 60mph (they can go up to 120mph), it felt like I was taking off on the fastest ever rollercoaster. I squeezed my eyes shut and prayed my stomach would hold out.
Fortunately it was just a few seconds before he took pity on me and slowed to a more tourist-friendly pace. Wind in your hair, speeding across the snow, it’s an exhilarating way to take in the landscape. Snowmobiling – a bit like a combo of jet-skiing, quad biking and motorcycle riding on snow – is big business in Ontario. You can even drive one yourself – but riding shotgun on this tour was enough action for me.
Sweet on syrup
We need to talk about maple syrup. It’s everywhere, and Canadians love it. Long part of the cultural fabric – Canada produces 85% of the world’s maple syrup – going a day without the sweet stuff is simply not an option. They put it on everything: pancakes, waffles, fruit, salads, potatoes, ice cream, in coffee and tea, or just pure solid sticky joy in the form of sweets or lollipops. For me, as long as it’s free-pouring I’m pretty happy…
Need s’more?
Roasting a s’more over a campfire has been a Canadian tradition for over a century. But when a waiter handed me a platter of treats and a skewer, I stared at him blankly until I got step-by-step instructions. Toast a marshmallow and piece of chocolate over the fire (lightly, not incinerated like my first try), then squish between two biscuits and await gooey heaven. The s’more the merrier.
Book the holiday
- Rooms at Sheraton Gateway Hotel in Toronto International Airport from £195 per night. marriott.com
- Rooms at JW Marriott The Rosseau Muskoka Resort & Spa from £171 per night. marriott.com
- Voyageur Quest’s Algonquin Private Winter Log Cabin Adventure starts from £460 per person, based on a group of 12. Includes two nights private log cabin accommodation, meals and guided excursions. voyageurquest.com
- Air Canada flies direct to Toronto from Heathrow this winter from £450. aircanada.com
- More info at destinationontario.com @OntarioTravel
