Gardeners should start by removing any damaged or crossing growth or any old wood which can be pruned right back to the ground, says Monty Don in his latest blog post
Gardening expert Monty Don shared some invaluable tips for rose enthusiasts one of his popular blog post.
He reveals: “Climbing roses flower on shoots grown the same spring so they can be pruned hard now.” But it’s a different story for their countryside cousins, as: “Rambling roses on the other hand produce their flowers on shoots grown the previous summer so should only be pruned immediately after flowering.”
The gardening expert suggests that the first step is to take out any damaged or intersecting growth or any tired wood which can be lopped right down to the dirt. He elaborates: “The main stems should be fanned out at an equidistance as horizontally as possible, tying them to wires or a trellis.
“Then all the side shoots growing from these main stems, which produced this year’s flowers, can be reduced to a short stub of a couple of leaves.” He says the end result should be a pattern of mostly horizontal growth with neatly pruned side shoots dotting their length.
Monty calls on gardeners to make sure everything is bound tightly to prevent any damage from winter’s wrath, reports the Express. Not just for climbing roses, the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) also advises giving bush roses a light trim to cut down their height during the winter months to ward off wind rock.
The pros noted: “These plants are generally shallow-rooted and can become loose in the soil if buffeted by strong winds.” Pruning and renovation of many deciduous trees, shrubs and hedges can also be carried out from now, all the way through the dormant season.
The RHS said: “It is easier to see what you are doing when the branches have no leaves. Suitable examples are Fagus and Corylus. Exceptions are tender plants, and also Prunus species as these are vulnerable to silver leaf if pruned in the autumn and winter.”
Apple and pear trees can also be pruned now as pruning them during the winter months will keep them productive and control their size. Gardeners should start by removing dead, diseased and damaged shoots before removing crossing shoots that are rubbing together.
The RHS then recommended pruning out strong shoots growing towards the centre, leaving weaker shoots unpruned. The experts continued: “Shorten the previous year’s growth on each of the main branches by a quarter to one-third, cutting just above an outward-facing bud.
“This will encourage branching and the formation of fruiting spurs. Leave the young side shoots unpruned, so they can develop fruit buds in the second year.”
