This Northumberland village transports travellers to different era, home to a historic smokehouse with world-class kippers and the remains of an imposing cliff-top fortress
There is one part of the UK’s marvellous coastline that is perfect for anyone looking to unplug.
While mobile phone service is improving, it’s still a bit hit or miss in some of Britain’s most rural spots – but that only adds to the timeless feel and charm of this Northumberland destination. The village of Craster is less than an hour’s drive from Newcastle and just a few miles from Alnwick. According to ChronicleLive, those that stumble upon this petite fishing village are able to enjoy stunning greenery and incredible seafood.
Craster’s fishing heritage plays a significant role in every facet of local life and, for tourists, the most well-known aspect of this hidden gem is its ‘best in the world’ fish. That famous fish is the humble kipper.
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L Robson & Sons is the home of Craster’s world-famous kippers – smoked herrings typically eaten for breakfast or brunch. Established in 1856, this family business has exported its wares over the world, and rumour has it that these kippers are particularly popular with the British Royal Family.
L Robson & Sons have been curing herring in its original smokehouses for 170 years and according to travellers on TripAdvisor, they have perfected their craft. One reviewer writes that the kippers in Craster offer “a real taste of Northumberland to take home with you”.
For its exceptional product, the smokehouse has earned a listed status from English Heritage and, as the company itself says, it has seen its reputation enhanced “by its endorsement on numerous television programmes and the approval of many of the county’s top chefs.”
One of the reasons that smokeries have such a storied history in the village is because, centuries ago, herring was plentiful and very easy to catch in the area. Thus, it became a staple part of the local diet along the length of the coast. Today, the Craster business produces a million kippers a year.
But kippers are not the only thing that has put Craster on travellers’ radars. The village has been featured on television in a variety of ways, most recently on World’s Most Scenic Railway Journeys. The show highlighted the village during a scenic train trip from York to Edinburgh, saying that here, “time seems to have stood still and ancient traditions continue.”
The village’s distinctly timeless look and feel has made it a beloved scouting location over the years. Craster has a whole host of credits to its name including Vera; Alibi’s The Red King; Villages by the Sea and Robson Green’s Weekend Escapes.
But those who journey to see the village in-person will be rewarded with an immersive historical experience. The best place to bask in the area’s rich history is at the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle.
While only a portion of the castle stands today, it marks the spot where a grand fortress once stood. Visitors will be able to see the remains of the huge gatehouse and the Egyncleugh Tower, which overlooks Queen Margaret’s Cove.
The process of building the castle began in 1313 and historians have concluded that its incredible grandeur was due to the Earl Thomas of Lancaster’s desire to assert authority over King Edward II. If castles are of strong interest, you can also take the 30-minute drive from Craster to Bamburgh castle.
Or if you enjoyed the lovely cliff-top walk up to Dunstanburgh Castle and want to see more of the area’s natural beauty, you can head to the Arnold Memorial Nature Reserve. This reserve, owned by the Northumberland Wildlife Trust, is a must-visit spot for avid birdwatchers.
There is a reason this stretch of coast is a source of inspiration for artists and nature-lovers alike. While the cell service has improved over time, the ruins of an ancient castle, the rolling hills and the charcoal scent from the smokehouse will transport you to a different time.