You might not see the village of Llansteffan in the guidebooks but its truly a wonderful place to spend time
For many holidaymakers, heading west for a break in popular Welsh tourist spots like Tenby, Saundersfoot, or St David’s, one little village tucked away off the dual carriageway isn’t usually on their radar.
The little village of Llansteffan just outside Carmarthen, is easily overlooked. But this quaint locale boasts a vast beach, an imposing castle and an incredible pub and restaurant, all nestled amidst some of Wales’ most stunning countryside.
Despite not featuring as prominently in guidebooks, Llansteffan holds its own against any of Wales’ better-known seaside destinations, offering equal measures of beauty and tranquillity. This charming estuary village on the River Tywi, just one inlet away from Dylan Thomas’ retreat Laugharne, promises delightful days filled with exploration, historic adventures, gourmet dining or just the simple pleasure of enjoying fish and chips on the beach.
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Like much of the Welsh coast, Llansteffan offers a lovely blend of coastal strolls for those who enjoy the feel of sand between their toes, and woodland paths, with shimmering water (on a sunny day!) in view and the scent of sea air all around.
From the waterfront car park, you can set up camp on the beach, with facilities close at hand. However, do keep an eye on the tide, as it moves quickly in these parts, reports Wales Online.
If the tide is out and you’re seeking more seclusion, you can wander over to Scott’s Bay. Again, be mindful of the tide – you can check the tide times here.
Florries chip shop and a quaint tea shop on the front are just some of the local delights in this village, which boasts a mix of listed buildings and cottages. The quiet seaside village is also home to Inn at the Sticks, which has been named as Wales’ winner in The Good Food Guide’s Best Local Restaurants 2024.
A pub since 1809, the Llansteffan Landmark originally operated as the Union Hall Inn before transitioning to a hotel in 1881. In 2002, it was designated as a Grade II listed building, and last year, it was acquired by its current owners. They refurbished both the bar and the inn with careful attention to preserving its historic character.
Now, over 200 years since it first opened its doors, the Llansteffan Landmark has been recognised as the best local restaurant in Wales. Managed by partners Teej and Jenks (with Teej previously from Cardiff’s Curado bar), their restaurant features specials that highlight the best from both land and sea.
In addition to creating a cosy, welcoming atmosphere, Inn at the Sticks excels at championing Welsh produce and crafting its menu around seasonal offerings. The ‘From The Sea’ section celebrates the bounty of Welsh seafood, featuring prawns, mackerel, and cockles. The ‘Land’ section offers traditional classics like faggots and Welsh beef, while the ‘Garden’ section provides plentiful meat-free choices, all highlighting Welsh ingredients.
You can book a table here.
To walk off a wonderful meal, the majestic Llansteffan Castle is just a 10-minute walk from the waterfront car park. This castle, built during Norman times, encapsulates an Iron Age fort dating back to 600 BC.
Overlooking Carmarthen Bay, it’s a perfect spot to unwind. For those wanting to hit the water, the Carmarthen Bay Ferry can whisk you across to Ferryside.
If you’re seeking a break from the hustle and bustle, there’s no better place.
Getting there is simple. From Swansea and Cardiff, head to the end of the M4, take the A48 to Carmarthen, then follow the B4312 down to Johnstown/Llansteffan.
Parking is free at the Llansteffan car park located at The Green, Llansteffan, SA33 5LW.
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