Ephe so good – Chris Hunnysett soaks up sun and ancient wonders on Turkey’s Aegean coast, leaving his child behind to make the most of the beautiful resort and the weather
At the end of the long soggy English summer holidays and junior having returned to school, it was with a heavy heart I headed to the airport for a child-free few days in an adults-only resort in the glorious Turkish sunshine.
The all-inclusive TUI BLUE Angora hotel on Turkey’s Aegean coast is a relaxed oasis with an emphasis on wellness – and my ‘room’ was a low rise apartment – spacious, modern, and tastefully furnished. It wasn’t one of the select that has a private mini pool, but I was next to the swim-up pool bar. Sometimes you just have to accept the hardships of life.
The hotel and grounds have a very relaxed vibe, and even at capacity it never feels busy. The staff speak excellent English, are friendly and attentive but they’re never intrusive.
If you want to get a little closer to the locals, I recommend the Turkish language lessons on offer. They’re a half hour long and a fun introduction. Our teacher was engaging and learning a language is a great way of getting to know a new country.
Another is learning about Turkey’s past. And this part of the world is rich in historic sites, the greatest of which is the magnificent ancient city of Ephesus. It’s the home of the the Temple of Artemis, a wonders of the ancient world – and Ephesus is a must see for anyone with even the most remote interest in history as well as seasoned explorers of ancient sites.
It’s certainly a breathtaking and unforgettable experience – and when fully excavated it’s expected to be the largest ancient city in the world, even bigger than Pompeii. Soaring pillars and marble walkways lead to the Great Theatre of Ephesus, which has hosted performances by stars such as Tina Turner.
Esra, our knowledgeable and enthusiastic tour guide, gave us the full low down on the highs of the city in its heyday, and explained its importance to the Greeks as well as the Roman, Byzantium and Ottoman empires.
Sadly, a triple whammy of invasion, malaria and an earthquake did for the city. And though there’s not much left of the Temple of Artemis itself, there’s a hospital, smithy’s, shops, markets, temples, and fountains to explore, plus terrific statues of snakey-haired Gorgon Medusa and Nike, the Greek goddess of victory. Best of all the surviving ancient buildings is the wonderful ancient Library of Celsus. It was the third biggest in the ancient world and still bigger than most I’ve seen in the modern world. It’s probably just as well the scrolls and parchment are no longer there as our guide probably wouldn’t have been able to drag this bookworm away.
We then escaped the midday heat for the sanctuary of the museum which was unlike any other museum I’ve visited. It’s a jaw-dropping immersive 4D experience that whisks you off on a whistle-stop history of the ancient city, mixing historic fact with mythical storytelling and bringing to thrilling life the streets and avenues we’d just been walking down.
The experience lasts a brisk 20 minutes and even my cynical video game- playing son would be captivated by the Hollywood production standards. Then it was time for lunch, a delicious lamb kebab in the nearby city of Socek. We ate while gazing at the majestic walls of the Byzantine castle.
There wasn’t time to explore it but I’d happily come back to give it the time it undoubtedly deserves. Next stop was the town of Selcuk followed by a visit to Mary’s House, an ancient building thought to be the resting place of the mother of Jesus.
There you can drink holy water, light a candle and say a prayer for the good health of your family. Back at the hotel, it was time for dinner where you can eat at the a la carte restaurant or help yourself at the informal hot buffet. We ate savoury parcels filled with meat, served with beans, chicken and a side order of squid and spinach.
Dessert was a variety of slices of fruity heaven with ice cream, along with a drop of raki mixed with water, and known locally as ‘Lion’s tea’. I washed it all down with an ice cold lager while sitting outside in the glorious evening sunshine.
The hotel hosts film nights at the open air cinema, live music and entertainments. That evening we were treated to an athletic display of modern Argentinian dancing, featuring traditional whip-like bolas.
After an evening’s refreshments there’s nothing more refreshing than a dip in the sea next morning, and the warm Aegean is just steps away.
My group had booked a boat trip and set sail from the harbour of Kusadasi, passing a Byzantine stone fort. We stopped several times for a swim and to explore various rocky coves and go snorkelling before a lunch of fresh cooked mackerel or roast chicken, served with salad, potatoes and coleslaw. Scuba diving is also available.
My last day was spent being taught how to make a traditional Turkish meal by the hotel’s watchful master chef. It was great fun rolling out and cutting sheets of pasta into little squares, then adding a dot of spicy meat and pinching the result into parcels like tiny ravioli. Then it was off to the kitchen to watch them being cooked and served up with a delicious garlic and tomato sauce.
Before heading to the airport I had time for a sauna and a massage with a masseuse who had a firm hand and what’s best described as a cheeky sense of humour.
So my wonderful trip to Turkey ended up truly invigorating both my mind and muscles.
Book the holiday
- TUI offers seven nights on all-inclusive at the TUI BLUE Angora Beach hotel in Seferihisar, Turkey, from £684pp. Fly from Stansted on May 14 with 20kg baggage and transfers. Gatwick, Heathrow, Luton, Birmingham, Edinburgh and Manchester also available. tui.co.uk
- More info at goturkiye.com
