The Shambles in York is a magical spot, particularly when the nights draw in and the Christmas lights get switched on. Many of the structures lining the street today trace their origins back to the late 14th century.
A street in one of Britain’s oldest cities, York, is a captivating spot brimming with unique shops, cosy pubs, and lively bars.
The Shambles, as it’s affectionately known, is a labyrinth of winding, narrow lanes nestled in the heart of North Yorkshire. It transforms into a magical place when the nights grow longer and the Christmas lights twinkle.
At the middle of the area lies a lane actually named the Shambles, renowned as possibly the best-preserved medieval street globally, even earning a mention in the 1086 literary sensation, the Domesday Book.
Many of the structures lining the street today trace their origins back to the late 14th century. The name ‘Shambles’ is believed to have evolved from ‘Shammel’, an Anglo-Saxon term for the shelves that were once a common sight in the open shopfronts. While the ancient name and buildings persist, the purpose of most shops has evolved over time.
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The butchers who once busily chopped, skinned, and portioned meat here have long since departed. The only remnants of their trade are the meat hooks they used to display their goods on the shopfronts. Nowadays, the Shambles accommodates a variety of businesses. Still, its medieval overhanging buildings and tight alleyways remain intact, offering visitors a sense of stepping back in time.
During my university days, I spent three years in York, witnessing the Shambles transform with the changing seasons and times of day. At Christmas, the streets were bustling with eager shoppers seeking a bargain and a warm pastry to ward off the cold.
During this bustling period, it might be wise to head to one of the quieter yet equally enchanting streets on the other side of town until the crowds thin out in the evening.
In the summer, the Shambles are filled with the sound of busking students, hen parties, and day-trippers there to sample some of York’s pubs. Whether the widely circulated claim that the city has a pub for every day of the year is indeed true takes far longer than a day, a long weekend, or even a three-year degree to verify.
This is largely because you’ll likely find yourself repeatedly visiting the superb House of Trembling Madness.
My favourite time to visit was in the dead of night, after a stop at one of these many pubs or the now sadly closed and much-missed Willow – a delightfully grubby club/Chinese restaurant. In certain sections of the Shambles, you can touch both sides of the street with your arms outstretched. The best time to test your wingspan is once all the other visitors have headed home.
In recent years, the narrow lane has become saturated with wizard-themed shops, thanks to its striking resemblance to the fictional Diagon Alley from Harry Potter. When the relentless peddling of magical merchandise becomes overwhelming, visitors can retreat to the shrine of Margaret Clitherow.
Step inside this peaceful sanctuary and you’ll find respite from the bag-wielding mayhem that’s left firmly outside. The shrine welcomes the public throughout the week and holds Mass at 10am each Saturday.
A quick walk through one of the Shambles’ snickelways (narrow alleyways) brings you to the Shambles Market, an open-air venue selling food and various goods. TikToker That Girl Fleurr, who explores destinations around the UK, recently declared the Shambles ‘the most magical street’ in Britain in a video. It’s a sentiment that’s difficult to challenge.
Jerry Rebbeck, who runs Wheelwrights York, told the Express: “Many of the buildings in the centre of York are centuries old, and have a spooky charm about them – walking down Micklegate at night feels like walking through a ghostly storybook.
“Within the city centre, historic buildings such as 85 Micklegate, a late medieval timber-framed terraced building, loom over the narrow street and look particularly eerie in the moonlight. Walking down the Shambles, famed for its likeness to Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley, you can see ghostly-looking old buildings such as 37 The Shambles that cast long shadows and add to the city’s paranormal feel. It’s these atmospheric streets and striking old buildings that help make York a picturesque backdrop for a Halloween weekend.”
