Santorini is now one of the most popular islands, but travellers looking for a slice of Greek culture can visit a lesser-known neighbour
Popular tourist hotspots of Santorini and Mykonos are known for their relentless beauty – but also for the sheer number of people who descend on them every year.
Overtourism is a problem for these beautiful Greek islands, ranked as some of the most popular destinations to visit in 2024. But travellers who are looking to explore the country, and even embark on somewhere new, are urged not to overlook this wonderful neighbour.
Anyone interested in understanding the appeal of the Cyclades, the name given to a group of islands towards the south-east of the mainland, may want to consider Folegandros. One of the westerly Cyclades islands, Folegandros may be on your radar already because of the stone-paved capital of Chora, which has become an increasingly popular holiday destination of the years.
Defined by the traditional Cycladic architecture of whitewashed houses and blue-domed churches, the town paints a beloved, if stereotypical, picture of the Greek islands that visitors adore. It also boasts an incredible natural landscape that even hoards of tourists cannot sully. Following the zigzagging road up the dry hill to the Panagia church—the most famous church on the Folegandros islands—travellers can capture exquisite views of the Aegean Sea.
But Folegandros has more to offer than can be found within the capital bounds. There are two other key villages worth exploring. Just three kilometres from Chora is Folegandros’ only island port and one of only two seaside settlements: Karavostasis. The Karavostasis port functions all year round and is the arrival port for all ferry travellers headed to Chora. But the village is more than just an arrival and departure point. Karavostasis is home to charming tavernas and mini-markets, as well as a beloved beach.
Located in a rock bay with a beautiful pebble beach, Karavostasis also boasts the same whitewashed tavernas and villas you’ll find in Chora. The village’s main beach is only a small strip of pebbles but low-grown trees offer relief from the heat and the larger beach of Vardia is nearby.
Finally, the second biggest but fairly traditional village of Ano Meria is known as the calmest region of Folegandros, sitting on the northwest tip of the island. It is 5.5 miles from Karavostasis and 2.4 miles from Chora, with the agricultural village being made up of only a few dispersed neighbourhoods perched on a small hill. Most houses in this village are “themonies” meaning they are dwellings as well as self-contained farming units.
The village is ideal for anyone looking for seclusion and slow exploration, offering a more authentic experience of rural Greek life. It is also perfectly carved for hikers, as there are four great hiking routes travellers can take from Ano Meria. Apart from these three villages, Folegandros is also home to the Agali village—the newest island settlement and predominantly a summer one—and two additional rural settlements of Petousis and Livadi.
