Sicily is a popular destination for Brits – but now the locals are fighting back against the crowds
Sicily is quickly becoming one of Italy’s top tourist destinations, with direct flights from the UK, pleasant weather extending into October, and a plethora of stunning beaches. However, our journey to Sicily’s capital, Palermo, completely changed our view of this captivating island and its friendly locals.
Walking through the sun-drenched streets of Palermo, I was instantly captivated by the lively atmosphere and the city’s impressive ancient architecture. For my husband and I, it was a short city break, so we only had a few precious hours to explore the attractions. After visiting many of Sicily’s famous locations like Taormina, Catania, and the Aeolian Islands, Palermo offered something completely different. This vibrant Mediterranean hub was teeming with life, from its bustling markets and captivating architecture to its delicious cuisine that drew influence from its Greek, Roman, and Arab settlers.
However, as we explored the historic streets, my husband and I couldn’t ignore the graffiti messages left by activist groups, written on everything from decaying alleyways to tourist signs. “Tourists go home,” read one blunt message. Another, painted over a city map, translated into English as: “Where am I? What did we grow up on? Where did all the others go? And why did I decide to return?”
Like many other European hotspots, Palermo is now wrestling with the threat of over tourism, and its residents are pushing back against the hordes of tourists that descend on its streets each year. Sicily has been hit hard by a severe drought this summer, with tourists reportedly making the situation worse. There have been cases where hotels have had to turn away holidaymakers due to water shortages.
Palermo isn’t the only city taking a stand against rising tourist numbers. Hunger strikes have been staged by protesters in Tenerife, while locals in Barcelona have resorted to spraying tourists with water pistols. Bold graffiti messages have appeared in major tourist centres across Europe, and anti-tourism protests have occurred in Greece, Italy, Portugal, the Netherlands, and most notably Spain.
For most of these destinations, locals are resisting the rise in visitor numbers as its putting pressure on health services, waste management, water supplies and housing, all at the expense of residents. Moreover, while many places have become overly accommodating to tourists, complete with English-speaking locals, Irish pubs and eateries serving full-English breakfasts, Palermo remains a truly authentic city: it’s no wonder it wants to stay that way.
Seeing anti-tourist signs not only made us feel unwelcome and slightly uneasy, but it also made me rethink the impact my holiday has on those who call it home. I don’t want to be just another tourist, chasing the sun, sand and Aperol Spritz without considering the impact on local resources like water. Despite Palermo’s undeniable charm, with its mesmerising streets, warm climate and stunning beaches along the Tyrrhenian Sea, I’ll be doing my homework before returning during the high season. The growing backlash against tourism in many popular destinations has made me rethink my role as a traveller. Maybe it’s time to explore those off-the-beaten-track locations.
